How to build a frame building. We build a frame house: do-it-yourself practical steps

The construction of a frame house allows you to quickly solve the housing problem, save on materials and do the work yourself. Assembly takes only 2-3 months, and wood costs are almost halved (compared to timber buildings). You can build a frame without serious experience in construction - step-by-step instructions will help you with this.

There are several technologies for building a frame house: Canadian, Finnish, German, using a wooden or metal base. But in any case, the design includes the following elements:

top and ;
vertical racks;
rafter system;
heat and sound insulating layer;
interior and exterior cladding.

Wall thickness depends from the region of construction and purpose of the house- for temporary or seasonal residence. The set of materials is standard: wooden beams, boards, OSB panels, moisture-resistant plywood, insulation, fasteners. Specialized tools are not required, but sometimes a technician may be needed to install large-sized elements.

Preparation for construction

The basis of a frame house is wood materials, which excess moisture damages. It is important to choose the right building site - dry, without wetlands, not flooded during rain. It is necessary to pre-level the ground, remove debris, prepare a passage for trucks.

The second stage is development. This task is best left to professionals who take into account existing building codes, coordinate documents in licensing authorities. If skills allow, you can take a typical project and adapt it to your own needs. The main thing is not to forget about engineering communications and take into account the recommended dimensions of the house.

Important! To quickly build a frame house, be sure to draw up an estimate and describe all the stages of the work. You can take the following step-by-step instructions as a basis.

Stages of building a frame

Wooden structures are subject to biological destruction, unstable to fire. To solve this problem, apply flame retardants and bioprotective compounds. It is most convenient to use a complex remedy that protects against fire, woodworms and decay. Impregnation treatment is necessary at every stage of the construction of a frame house.

Foundation device

The skeleton weighs much less than a timber or brick house, so a lightweight foundation is enough for it.

The most popular option is tape. For its arrangement, they dig a trench according to the marking of the future house, install a wooden formwork in it, fill it with concrete mortar, and tamp the mixture. For tamping, use hand tools or special vibrators.

In second place is - bored or screw. In the first case, the piles are driven into pre-drilled holes, in the second, they are screwed in manually or using special equipment. Above them, a grillage is arranged in the form of a tape. 200-400 mm thick and 200-300 mm high. It binds the piles into a single whole, increasing the strength of the structure. When arranging a pile foundation, it is important to take into account the characteristics of the soil and strictly follow the technology. Otherwise, the soil will swell and loosen the piles.

slab foundation- a great option for those who decide to build a frame house with their own hands. A slab poured from concrete compensates for the seasonal expansion of the soil. The recommended height is 250-500 mm. Most practical insulated Swedish plate (UShP), consisting of several layers:

compacted sand bedding;
rigid foam 200 mm thick;
reinforced concrete mixture;
underfloor heating pipes;
leveling screed.

UWB combines foundation, monolithic floor and heating system. But such a foundation requires large financial investments.

One of the most accessible foundations - columnar. It is a small posts, installed on the ground or buried in it. The columnar foundation is easy to do with your own hands, but due to its low reliability, it is only suitable for domestic buildings.

Subfloor device

There are two types of wooden subfloor:

load-bearing structure used in combination with a strip or pile foundation;
the lattice structure is used in tandem with a slab or concrete screed.

In the first case, the horizontal level is observed at the stage of arranging the base or grillage, in the second - at the stage of pouring the base.

Subfloor laying technology looks like a wall plan. First, a supporting base is installed - logs and crossbars. If necessary, the lags are overlapped. To strengthen the structure, additional spacers are used. At the same stage, engineering structures are laid: water supply, gas pipeline and sewerage.

Frame erection

Frames of prefabricated houses are metal and wooden. If you have no experience in building, it is better to order a factory kit ready for installation. Otherwise, it is necessary to comply with assembly technology. There are two options:

collect all elements at the installation site;
gradually assemble the walls on a horizontal surface and install them in place.

The second method is more convenient and productive - especially for metal frames. To assemble the latter, a welding machine is used.

The construction of the frame takes place in several stages:

Bottom harness. The size of its cross section depends on the type of foundation. The harness is placed above the ground mark, carefully treated with antiseptics and waterproofed.
frame for each wall. The step of the racks is 60 cm with plank sheathing and 62.5 cm with shield sheathing. The latter exactly corresponds to the standard dimensions of the OSB board. During the installation phase, temporary braces are often installed. The maximum load falls on the corners, so the most durable materials are used for their production.
Upper harness. The choice of material depends on the load that the structural element will carry. With high strength, the metal requires a large number of drillings and is expensive. More convenient to use wooden beam, single or double boards. Their thickness depends on the area of the house.
Cover beams. When building a frame house, reinforced concrete floors are not used - they weigh too much. Best suited for this purpose boards 50*200 mm in size or paired boards 50*150 mm in size. The pitch varies from 40 to 60 cm. Internal partitions. They can be plank (one- or two-layer), frame-sheathed with or without insulation. Dry lumber, plywood, chipboard, drywall, OSB are suitable for the construction of partitions.

Several technologies are used to connect wooden elements: 90° joint, 45° cut joint, half-timber joint, tongue and groove joints.

Roof arrangement

The construction of the roof is one of the most important stages in the construction of a frame house. It is necessary to determine in advance its type, type of truss system, sheathing material. A gable roof is well suited for a frame with a slope of not less than 28 and not more than 50 degrees.

For the truss system you will need boards section 50*150 or 50*200 mm- dimensions depend on the design load and the insulation used. The standard step is 60 cm. Two boards are connected on the ground, the finished structure is lifted to the roof and mounted on the top trim with an overhang of 35-70 cm. To make the roof even, the rafters are installed first on the gables, and then in the middle. The final stage is the installation of a thinned or continuous crate, on top of which the roofing material is fixed.

Insulation and sheathing of the frame

The finished frame is treated with antiseptics, dried well and sheathed with OSB boards. The resulting cells are filled with insulation - mineral wool or polystyrene foam. The thickness of the layer depends on the purpose of the house - at least 15-20 cm is required for permanent residence. The wall cake looks like this:

wind waterproofing;
outer skin - plates;
insulation;
vapor barrier;
inner lining made of GKL or OSB + GKL.

For outdoor decoration use siding, wood or fiber cement panels, plaster, decorative bricks.

Interior decoration

This is the finishing frame house. Lightweight walls do not shrink, so you can immediately start finishing. It goes through several stages:

Final arrangement of the floor. Mount first wooden base from boards with a section of 50-150 mm- their ends are laid on the support bars or on the foundation. The lower part of the lag is covered with hydroprotection, followed by insulation, vapor barrier, boards or OSB. Floor covering - linoleum, laminate or parquet.
Ceiling lining. The crate is attached to the support bars, they are laid in the formed sections vapor barrier and insulation. The layers are covered with drywall or other slab material.

If you follow the construction technology, a frame house will serve you for many years. The main thing is to choose the right project that meets the climatic conditions of the region and regulatory requirements.

The construction of frame houses in our country is becoming more and more popular. All new technologies are part of such buildings, and it does not matter what technology the house is built on - Finnish or Canadian. This article describes how to build a frame-type house with your own hands, and also describes each stage of the construction of a building of this category.

Construction features

A frame house is a structure based on a frame. In general, this is clear from the name. The frame itself is the basis and a kind of "skeleton" of such a building. The frame is installed on a pre-prepared foundation, after which it is sheathed with special panels. It is insulated and a roof is being built. After completing all these stages, the output is a finished house.

It should be noted that frame houses first appeared in Germany, and then a wave of their popularity swept over Canada and the United States. Just for this reason, there is more than one technology for building a frame house - Canadian, Swedish German, and so on. On the territory of the USSR, such houses began to be built back in the 50s of the twentieth century. And since that time, interest in buildings of this type has increased significantly and continues to grow at a fast pace.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like all buildings, frame houses have advantages and disadvantages.

If we talk about the benefits, then it should be noted:

Low construction cost. This technology is considered the most affordable, even if we take into account the cost of finishing and foundation.
High pace of construction. It takes three builders a month to build a medium-sized house. And if you still build the foundation and carry out finishing work, then 1.5 - 2 months will be enough for them.
Low operating costs. This type of house does not require constant maintenance, unlike the same wooden houses, where it is required to update the facade from time to time.

Excellent soundproofing in the rooms. If you install soundproofing inside the ceilings, walls and partitions, then you can achieve pretty good results in this matter.
Possibility to lay communications inside the walls. One of the features of just such a technology will be that without any costs and the use of special tools, you can lay electricity, heating pipes, water supply, and so on inside the wall. From an aesthetic point of view, this is a very big advantage.

The possibility of building a lightweight foundation. Thanks to this technology, it is possible to use the so-called lightweight low-lying foundations, which saves money and increases the speed of construction.
Environmental friendliness. The main components of a frame house, in addition to the frame itself, are insulation, basalt and mineral wool, gypsum plasterboard, as well as OSB oriented strand board. All this is the result of the processing of exclusively natural materials, which increase the performance of the building and do not pose a threat to humans.

Seismic resistance. Houses of this type can withstand earthquakes up to 9 on the Richter scale. It is for this reason that such buildings are extremely popular in countries such as Japan.
Possibility of construction at any time of the year. There is no restriction on building a house in any season unless the temperature is less than -15 degrees Celsius. That is, the construction of such a house in the winter is very possible.

There is no reason to use heavy construction equipment. Just a few workers are enough to build such a house in a short time.
Easy access to wall and floor content. The design of such a house is made in such a way that getting to the insulation or internal communications is not a problem. This makes it possible to constantly modernize the house and improve its technical characteristics.
Possibility of fast and not too expensive dismantling. Thus, the house can, if desired, be transported and assembled elsewhere.

Not too thick walls. This makes it possible to save extra square meters and make the interior space larger.
Low thermal conductivity and heat capacity of various designs. That is, it is possible to significantly reduce heating costs in winter, and also, if necessary, coolness is easily maintained in summer.
No shrinkage. That is, after construction, you can immediately begin to carry out the finishing, which means that you can move in as quickly as possible. Also, there is no need to do additional space heating, there is no risk of wall distortion during shrinkage, and so on.

No wet cycles in construction. The construction of the house becomes as independent as possible from the sources of water supply and the temperature outside the window.
Lots of defrosting and freezing cycles. The house can be used seasonally or on short visits and it makes no sense to maintain some kind of temperature when no one is there. And warming up the house takes very little time.
Comfortable indoor climate. The use of wood or drywall makes it possible to preserve the frame structure of all the characteristics of a wooden house, namely the ability to diffuse gases, take and give moisture.

No gaps. A big advantage of such houses is the presence of even, almost perfect surfaces, which makes it possible to eliminate the appearance of cracks and holes. And even if there are, they are perfectly filled with insulation. Moreover, the use of the same wind and waterproofing membrane makes it possible to exclude any air masses from entering the thickness of the wall.
Simplicity and ease of interior decoration. A big plus of such houses is the absence of the need to plaster the walls or create a frame. It is enough just to putty the joints and places where there are self-tapping screws and that's it - you can glue the wallpaper, because there is no need to level the walls.

Also, there is no need to do a floor screed, because the floor is already initially ready for finishing. Saving time and money is also evident.

Having noted all the advantages of these houses, one cannot but mention some of the disadvantages:

We need a fairly well-made project, as well as drawings, where fasteners with nodes will be displayed. Technologically, such a house is somewhat more complicated than a regular one, and requires certain builder skills, a number of tools, and so on.
The boominess of floors and wall structures. This minus is for all floors and wooden walls. It is associated with the relatively low weight of the structure, which does not adequately dampen serious vibrations. Partially, this problem is solved with the help of heat and sound insulation from the 2nd layer of GKL, heavy and dense basalt-mineral heaters.

As you can see, the advantages of this type of houses are much greater than the disadvantages, which means that making a choice in favor of just such a building is a pretty good decision.

Types of buildings

frame-panel or panel;
frame-log or Canadian;
post-and-beam or fachwerk;
frame with uncut racks;
frame structures.

All other options can be either with minor changes to such houses, or they are a combination of different solutions. Now let's talk about each of the above options in more detail.

Frame-panel houses are usually produced at the factory. According to the project, the frame is first made, after which the panels, ceilings between floors and even the roof. Each element receives the necessary markings and all the necessary holes. In fact, this is a kind of constructor. When the house kit is ready, it is simply delivered to the construction site, where its direct installation is already beginning.

This technology is very simple, but in order for the house to be of the highest quality and durable, all the rules and norms of its construction should be observed.

If we talk about frame-frame or Canadian houses, then we must immediately say about the so-called SIP panels. They are a structural insulating panel, which is a heater that is framed by OSB sheets. This option is a reinforced version of panels for frame-panel houses. A structure of this type will be built using the "Platform" technology.

Three layers of such a panel are connected to each other using a tongue-and-groove beam using polyurethane foam-based glue. In the production of SIP panels, polyurethane foam is also used, which is a fairly highly effective insulation. In order to increase strength, the aforementioned layers are pressed.

It should be said right away that high-quality SIP panels can only be manufactured in the factory.

Another option for houses is made according to German technology. In fact, this is one of the options for using the platform technique. This technology involves laying thermal insulation and communications in shields. Installation of windows, assembly of ceilings and primary finishing of walls is also carried out. All this is done only in the factory. A rather serious drawback is the need to use lifting mechanisms.

If we talk about the frame-frame method of construction, then it has a significant difference from the panel one: the frame of the house is assembled at the construction site in the form of frames that are not sheathed. Only when the installation of the structure is completed, its sheathing and insulation begin.

Such houses are the best solution for those who want to build a house on their own. The advantage of such houses is that the owner sees in full what the house is made of, how the work is carried out and assembly is carried out.

It should be noted that the frame of the house can be made optionally of wood. Now popular are metal frames made of light steel thin-walled structures and so on.

The use of this technology makes it possible to implement the most interesting architectural ideas not only at the initial stage, but also later, if redevelopment is suddenly required.

Another type of house, which is being built according to German technology, is post-and-beam, or fachwer. This technology is quite a few years old, and it involves the construction of houses from sections. They are made from horizontal beams, vertical posts and jibs. The peculiarity of the fachwer is that the frame with beams is not hidden behind the sheathing, but is just taken out from the outside of the house. Usually the frame is made of a thick beam, which has a section of 100 by 100 or 200 by 200 millimeters.

The space between the beams and posts is filled with certain materials. Previously, blocks of straw and clay were used. Now they use brick, OSB boards, adobe material and so on.

In our conditions, it is not worth making this type of house, since the structure will require quite serious insulation. But this view has a rather original look.

And the last type that you should pay attention to is frame-rack structures. Such houses with uncut drains are also called Finnish. They are somewhat similar to houses that are made using Swedish technology. One-piece vertically arranged posts that run through two floors are the main element of the frame. In order to ensure high structural strength, the racks must be installed strictly vertically.

The floors between floors are installed on support boards that have been cut into the beams. Continuous racks are pulled together by floor joists, the structure becomes rigid. This type of construction is characterized by the fact that the vertical posts act as piles. It is on them that the main burden falls. You can also increase the rigidity with horizontal beams.

Construction device

Creating a design begins with the development of a competent project. A drawing with the dimensions of the house and, in general, the most complete construction scheme, where not only the building is shown, but all its elements are drawn as much as possible - this is the best option that should be. The project, which, by the way, must fully comply with SNiP, should reflect engineering, structural, architectural and other features as much as possible. For example, if it is supposed to make a cross house with an attic, then it should already be in the project.

All this is done so that even a person who is not too versed in the construction of houses can implement engineering ideas as easily as possible.

And if necessary, you can see how this or that house will look like on the website of the contractor from which you plan to order the project. Another important point concerns regulatory documentation. The fact is that such a technology does not forgive mistakes, and therefore, in order to be sure that your project fully complies with all standards and state standards, you should independently double-check it according to SP 31-105-2002 called “Design and construction of energy-efficient single-apartment residential buildings with a wooden frame.

Construction rules

If we talk about the rules for the construction of such houses, then the main thing is the principle that construction technology must be strictly observed. That is, the house has proportions of 4x4 or 6x4, then it should be so. Or if the size of some room should be 3x6 m, and in some room the element 10x10 should be used, then you need to follow exactly these dimensions.

Any deviation risks disrupting the entire construction process and the result can be quite deplorable.

Construction should have the following stages:

building a foundation;
strapping, insulation and flooring;
building walls;
formation of overlaps and work with them;
the creation of a truss mechanism and the subsequent formation of the roof;
work with heaters.

Only in such a sequence can frame houses be erected, otherwise you risk creating a building whose efficiency will be significantly lower than planned.

Material selection and calculation

Before starting construction, you need to choose the material from which you will build the house, as well as calculate how much you will need it so as not to overpay in vain, but at the same time it was enough to implement all your ideas.

First of all, you should think about the consumption of lumber. But it all depends on what you will make a frame house from: wood, timber, or maybe boards. For example, to build a panel house, we need:

timber of various sections;
edged board with a section of 2 centimeters, as well as the same board, but with a section of 5 centimeters;
tongue-and-groove boards with a section of 2.5 centimeters.

It is not so easy to calculate the cost of a rack and cross beam. Here one should take into account the dimensions of the future building, that is, its area, as well as the category of heat-insulating material that will be used during construction.

Also, if we talk about the consumption of other materials, then you need to do:

foundation;
hydro and thermal insulation;
wind protection and vapor barrier;
roofing;
internal and external finishing;
various engineering communications - electrical wiring, drainage, snow retainers, sewerage, and so on.

By the way, the calculation of these systems must be done only when the owner of the house has decided on the material of the roof and the box of the house. It is from these two points that we need to build on in the future.

Naturally, if a person is ready to spend money to form a reserve of the strength reserve of a building, then such a scrupulous calculation can no longer be carried out. But, as a rule, frame houses are built precisely because they are cheap and affordable.

Instruments

Creating a frame wooden house can be done using the usual set of tools. This is another beauty of wireframe technology for ordinary people. There is no need to use any special equipment or any expensive tool. But at the same time, if you cut boards with a simple hacksaw and hammer nails with an ordinary hammer, you can build a house for years.

If it is possible to use a pneumatic or electric tool, then the result and speed of construction will improve significantly.

So, to carry out work at different stages, you will need different tools. For example, during site preparation and foundation work, you will need to have:

shovels and bayonet shovels;
wheelbarrow;
buckets;
roulettes;
plumb lines;
markers;
the pencils;
water levels.

At the stage of assembling the frame, we need:

saw;
perforator drill;
plane;
nail puller;
axe;
a hammer.

In addition, you will need various auxiliary elements - ropes, electric extension cords, as well as small tools, including various types of fasteners and nails.

It will significantly speed up construction and a modern tool will not be superfluous. For example, it is more convenient to prepare frame parts with an electric circular saw. And even better, if a special end saw is used for work, which has a stationary base. And the same circular electric saw will be an excellent option for mounting the frame.

For fast and high-quality driving of nails, you should use a pneumatic hammer with a compressor. This tool cannot be called cheap, but labor productivity will be much higher here.

In addition, in the process of assembling the frame, it will not be superfluous to use an electric planer, as well as an electric jigsaw. A planer is needed to correct defects in lumber, as well as to fit frame elements to each other. A jigsaw will not be superfluous for precise installation of the roof truss system.

Step-by-step instruction

As already mentioned, frame houses are built exclusively according to well-established technology, that is, in stages.

Foundation

Creating a foundation is a rather complicated and very responsible process that sets the tone for the successful implementation of a house project. When creating a foundation, it is necessary to take into account a lot of factors, ranging from the geological picture on the site to the height of groundwater, and so on.

As a rule, pile-grillage foundations are most often made. They can be built quickly and are reliable. In addition, such a basis does not require large material investments. In addition, such a platform will evenly transfer the load to all supports.

It is necessary to drill wells for piles with a drill. As a formwork, you can use roofing material rolled into pipes of a certain diameter. Inside the piles, 3-4 reinforcement bars are installed, which are interconnected in the form of a square or triangle. They must be cut so that at least 70-80 centimeters of the rod stick out above the surface of the pile.

It is best to fill everything with concrete grades from M25 and more.

After the piles have been poured, the formwork should be installed into which the reinforcement will be laid. We connect the longitudinal bars with the bent parts of the reinforcement from piles. You should also leave holes in the tape for communications and ventilation. In the foundation tape, a strapping beam will then be attached. To install it, studs are fixed in the tape. They are placed every meter or two.

From each corner in both directions it is necessary to retreat thirty centimeters. Studs are a must here. In other places, it already depends on the dimensions of the house, but they cannot be mounted less than two meters apart. It should be said that it is the studs that are the only link between the foundation and the frame of the house. Therefore, it is better not to be greedy. In general, there should be at least two studs in one wall.

When everything is ready, it is necessary to pour concrete. After that, so that it does not dry out, but becomes stronger, it is better to cover it with polyethylene. If the temperature after pouring the foundation is kept within about + 20 degrees, then after four to five days construction can be continued.

In this case, the concrete will already have 50 percent of its strength. And if the temperature is lower, the waiting time will be longer.

Floor

In order to make the floor, you first need to waterproof the foundation. To do this, it is necessary to use hydroisol, bituminous mastic and roofing material. First, liquid insulation is placed, after which the turn of roll insulation follows, and the beds are already attached from above - dry boards. Their edges should be aligned with the foundation height. A second layer of boards is placed on top of the first layer to hide the gaps that may form.

Strapping boards are attached to the beds. They must be placed on edge, aligned, and then attached with nails to their base. Now the lag is being installed - everything will be the same here as when installing the harnesses. That is, they can be nailed with oblique nails.

Now you can start insulating the floor. There are many ways to do this. One of them is the use of inexpensive polystyrene foam. Its thickness should be 15 centimeters. It is laid in two layers to cover the seams and joints. You can also go around the perimeter with sealant to ensure maximum surface insulation. After insulation, it remains to lay a draft floor from boards, as well as a layer of plywood.

If it is large and about 1.5 centimeters thick, then you can do without a second layer. And if not, then it is necessary to make another layer of boards overlapping with the first level.

Walling

The next most important stage is the construction of the walls of the house. In this case, there are two options: either assemble the wall frame on the floor, and then simply lift it, set it up and fix it, or assemble everything in place gradually. In the first case, work is usually carried out in factories, but in the second case, when the assembly is done by hand. To begin with, the lower binding beam is nailed, after which the corner posts are set, then the intermediate, upper trim. This technology is also called balloon.

Each option has its pros and cons, but everything will depend on how many people work at the facility.

If we talk about corner posts, then they should be either 150x150 millimeters or 100x100 mm. In rare cases, 50x100 racks are used. But here everything will depend on how small the house is being built. If small, then the 100x100 mm option will be more than enough. It will still depend on the load and the required width of the insulation.

The pitch of the racks is selected taking into account the load, but the distance between the racks is also selected based on the width of the insulation. The gap between them should be a couple of centimeters less than the width of the insulation. Then there will be almost no debris, as well as gaps with gaps.

That is, you must first set up and fix the corner beams, and then mount the upper trim on them, and only then with the selected step vertical racks. Racks can be fixed in several ways:

using wooden dowels;
to the corners;
with a notch.

Cutting into the board of the lower strapping should be carried out no more than half of its depth. Corners are usually attached on both sides. Pin fastening is an old technology, but its implementation is quite difficult. It is best to use reinforced corners.

Beams to which doors and windows are attached must be double. In this case, the load is greater, and therefore the support is required more powerful.

Now about the cuts and braces. If the outer skin must be made of high-strength material, then it is better to embed the jibs from the inside of the room, as they will be temporary. This is necessary to preserve the geometry while there is no outer skin. If the sheathing is type-setting, then permanent jibs must be required. It is best to use four small pieces each: two on the bottom and two on top.

But most of all the question arises in the construction of corners. This is not surprising, because these are the main nodes of the connections. If the beam is placed in a corner, then there will be no problems, except that the corner will be cold. But you can make the frame of the house warm.

After assembling the frame, it should be sheathed with plywood or OSB. This will not only be an excellent insulation, but will also act as excellent sound and noise insulation.

overlap

The floor beams must rest on the beam of the upper trim. There are several mounting methods:

with inset;
to the corners;
on steel support brackets.

The dimensions of the beams and the distance between them will depend on what will be on top. If this is a second residential floor or an attic, then the section should be taken more, and the step should be made smaller in order to avoid bending the floor.

If there is only a roof on top and the attic is non-residential, that is, in fact, we will have an overlap of the first floor, then these will be completely different calculations. And if the overlap of the second floor, that is, it is interfloor, then the calculations will be, as in the first case. In a one-story house, the floor beams are at the same time a support for the rafters. It is for this reason that they are released thirty centimeters beyond the perimeter of the wall.

If the second floor is to be completed, the ceiling is sheathed with a draft floor of the second floor, and from below it is necessary to cover the ceiling. That is, we get a kind of small "pie". In this case, it will be easier to work on creating the second floor of the house, since its assembly will not differ from the first.

Roof

The roof is already installed when all the walls are finally built and fully fixed. It remains to determine the slope we need and what the roof will be like. The most common is the duplex. In order to increase the useful area of the house, a number of buildings are equipped with a veranda. In this case, the project of the house may provide for several types of roof construction: over the veranda - single-pitched, and over the house - gable. And depending on the slope, the roof can be:

flat;
broken line;
straight.

Rafters are selected in such a way that between them it is possible to install insulation. As a sample, two boards six meters long are taken and connected into an L-shaped structure. Then they are lifted onto the roof, rested on a strapping beam so that the overhangs are 35-50 centimeters. Now the structure is fixed with a crossbar and used as a layout for rafters, which are mounted 70 centimeters apart.

Their connection in the ridge is carried out according to the "half-paw" method. That is, first the rafters are installed on the gables, after which a thread is pulled between them, along the level of which all intermediate rafters are installed. After that, a solid or thinned crate is placed. This is how the rafter system is done.

If we talk about the coating, then the composition of the roof may be different. As an example, consist of a metal tile or a corrugated board. The latter is very easy to install, has a relatively small weight and low cost. But it can have different layers - for example, you can install a corrugated board and a layer of metal tiles.

Wind protection

To protect the frame house from the effects of natural factors, a special windproof film is used. It refers to external materials for the facade. It is better to mount it in warm weather. Work can begin only after the completion of the laying of the main thermal insulation layer, as well as before the final decorative wall cladding. As a rule, the main heat-insulating layer is a special membrane.

In order to eliminate errors in the installation of such a film, you should pay attention to the structure of its sides from the outside: one is smooth, and the other is with a pile. The film is laid with the side where there is a pile, to the thermal insulation.

Rolls of film should have the manufacturer's branded logos on the surface, which is a hint how such film should be laid.

The layout of the windproof material can be carried out vertically, as well as horizontally. It is better to use the vertical version. A horizontal strip of film will simply interfere with its gradual installation.

The installation of the film should be carried out from top to bottom, while the end of the roll, which is free, is applied to the top of the wall and rolled to its base. You can cut the material with scissors. As an alternative, you can consider a clerical knife. The length of the piece of film that will be cut off from the roll should have small allowances so that you can run the material between the wall and the main insulation.

In no case should the material be allowed to sag. Such a film is fixed with plastic dowels with caps in the form of plates, which perfectly attach the film to the wall. For one square meter, five such dowels will be enough. When installing the next strip of windproof film, it should be overlapped so that there are no places that will be affected.

Ventilation

Ventilation in frame houses can be of two types:

natural;
artificial.

Natural ventilation is characterized by the entry of fresh air through doors and windows, and the exit through ventilation ducts in technical rooms. This is possible due to the difference in air pressure outside the room and inside it.

But in a frame house, natural ventilation will be weak, since such a structure will be airtight.

You can make ventilation in such a house with your own hands using a supply valve. The ventilation gap can be made with your own hands from plastic pipes. You can also use asbestos-cement, which should be carefully built into the frame to get a ventilation gap. Said valve allows air to enter.

Outside, it is covered with a grate to avoid foreign objects getting inside. There are installed filters for primary air purification, as well as a noise absorber. The air flow can be adjusted with a damper. The supply valve circuit is very simple and you can do it yourself. It is necessary to make a through hole in the wall, insert a pipe with sound insulation, a filter into it, fix the grate and make a damper.

It should be said that the natural method of ventilation is very inefficient, and in this case, at least an exhaust hood or a ventilated facade is needed, since such a system cannot simply resist the formation of fungus.

In order to ensure good traction, you can equip the system with a fan. There are also examples when humidity meters were installed, which can automatically turn fans on and off.

Warming

You can insulate a frame house with any material with the appropriate characteristics. Of course, the ideal material does not exist, but it is possible to find the optimal solution.

The most popular insulation today is basalt wool. It is made in the form of mats and rolls, each of which has a different density index. It is better to put mats in the walls: their density is higher and they hold better due to the bursting force. But for this, their dimensions must be two to three centimeters larger than the distance that exists between the frame racks. Mats are fixed with special fasteners, but they are still better to work with than soft rolls.

Mineral wool has excellent thermal insulation characteristics. But she also has a big drawback: she is afraid of moisture and should be protected not only from this, but also from the effects of steam. That is why from the side of the room it should be covered with a layer of vapor barrier membrane so that the vapors do not penetrate inside.

If we take the outer side, then the mineral wool thermal insulation is closed by another membrane, but of a different type. The membrane in this case will not be blown through and will not let water in gaseous and liquid form, and vapors can escape from the heater without problems. That is, the vapor barrier will be one-sided. When the insulation is installed, it remains only to carry out finishing work.

window installation

According to accepted building standards, windows should be about 18 percent of the wall area. And for maximum illumination, it is best to stick to these dimensions. If you will live in the house year-round, then it would be best to install a plastic double-glazed window with a large glass area.

How to treat the house?

In order to protect the house from temperature extremes, various pests, humidity and exposure to various microorganisms, it should be treated with an antiseptic. You can do this in three ways:

With a brush. This is the easiest and oldest way to apply an antiseptic. In this case, concentrates should be taken, which should be diluted with water before use. As a rule, two or three layers of an antiseptic are applied, which has been diluted with water.
With a sprayer. This method significantly saves the time that must be spent on this type of work. An antiseptic solution made in advance is poured into the sprayer, after which the mixture is sprayed onto the necessary parts of the house.
Immersion of the desired element in a container with an antiseptic. Immersion in the solution must be carried out for a strictly defined time in order for the properties of the tree to be preserved as much as possible. In order to carry out processing by this method, not only a large tank is needed, but also a special mechanism for lifting heavy elements.

In order to prevent the wood from floating up, it is necessary to use pressure systems.

The advantages of antiseptic treatment are:

Finish options

There are several finishing options. You can just put plaster on the outside, or you can use paint. You can also make wall cladding with siding or clapboard. If desired, it is possible to use a block house.

For example, plastering can be done in two ways:

Plastering is done on sheets of facade foam, which were previously fixed to the facade with glue, as well as special clamping dowels.
Plastering is done directly on OSB-sheets with joints pre-treated with frost-resistant sealant. Also, the walls should be covered in this case with fiberglass mesh and primed.

But this method is more suitable as a temporary option.

Common mistakes

When building houses, it is important to do everything right and avoid various kinds of inaccuracies. The final result will depend on the correctness of the calculations, the rational use of building materials, the observance of the technological moments of insulation, as well as the cladding - whether you will have a beautiful, comfortable and cozy home or whether you will get something completely different from what you expected. Therefore, it is worth considering the main mistakes of frame construction in order to prevent their commission, especially if you want to carry out the installation yourself.

One of the most common mistakes is the wrong selection of lumber for a wooden house. As you know, the basis of the frame house is made of wooden materials. And one of the main mistakes is their wrong selection. In one case, not very well dried wood is used in construction, that is, fresh lumber. And in another, wood of a small section is used, which simply cannot withstand operational loads.

The first mistake is much more serious, because its assumption can really affect the quality and reliability of the house design. After all, the fact is that wooden elements change in size as they dry out. Therefore, gaps, distortions and other problems may occur, which then make the building uninhabitable.

Wood of a small section does not withstand the necessary loads and its use in the house is simply dangerous.

Another important point is the sheathing of the frame structure. Only its correct implementation will ensure the stability of the house with wind side loads. In this case, the best solution would be an integrated approach, when the frame is sheathed using slab materials, and the slopes are installed in the lower and upper parts of the harness.

Hoping to reduce the cost of construction, you can seriously miscalculate. Especially if you decide to use some kind of budget insulation, the performance of which leaves much to be desired. The best heaters today are:

basalt wool;
mineral wool;
wool insulation.

Everything else is extremely risky. And in general, you should not save on insulation.

It is also necessary to observe the technology and construction design as accurately as possible. Usually we are talking about either a "balun" or a "platform". They have clear implementation scenarios from which you cannot deviate a single step, otherwise you simply risk making a house unsuitable for life.

Another common mistake is the wrong choice of fasteners. For example, if you fasten the frame boards not to ordinary nails, but to black self-tapping screws or perforated corners, then you can upset the balance of the fasteners. Moreover, it will be significantly more expensive and the structure will not yet receive the necessary strength.

Also quite often mistakes are made during the manufacture of insulation, namely during the selection of film protective coatings. The accumulation of moisture inside the frame walls is a big problem in such houses. And only a high-quality vapor and windproof film will help to resolve it.

Building a frame house with your own hands is a feasible task, although it requires serious concentration, an understanding of construction technology and a sequence of actions. In addition, you should not save on building materials at all stages of construction, because this may result in the future sideways. But if you follow the rules indicated above, then you can build a frame country house even alone and without experience without much difficulty.

For an overview of a do-it-yourself frame house, see the following video.

Our step by step instructions We will divide the construction of a frame house into several stages:

It is worth noting that each stage of the construction of a frame house deserves a separate article, in addition to everything, if you describe all the possible options for foundations, roofs, etc., you can get a whole book. In this regard, to improve readability, some steps in construction are described in detail in separate articles, but here - only what concerns the features specifically. frame house.

Step number 1: Preparatory work for the construction of a frame house

The preparatory work for the construction of any house is the same and includes:

Site preparation
House layout

Site preparation

First you need to clear the site of vegetation, if not all, then at least the place where the house will be built. This will greatly facilitate the markup and make it more accurate.

If the construction site has a large slope, then, depending on the type of foundation and desire, it can be pre-leveled on the horizon using special equipment.

Attention! Do not neglect this procedure, spending 1-2 hours on clearing, in the future you will greatly facilitate your work, and measurements in the grass can be with a large error.

House layout

Marking is a very important stage, because the layout and evenness of the corners of the walls depend on it. With inaccurate markup, it will be very difficult to correct this error in the next steps.

Marking the foundation of a frame house, as well as any other, as a rule, includes a preliminary placement of pegs (all external walls are marked), as well as marking all internal walls.

If you want to know how to properly mark the foundation for a house with your own hands, and so that all walls and corners are even and in line with the project, I advise you to read my article about this. Given the large amount of information, I had to take it out separately.

Step number 2: Do-it-yourself foundation for a frame house

The great advantage of a frame house is that almost any type of foundation is suitable for its construction. The only limitation is the type of soil on the site and your capabilities.

It is worth saying that laying the foundation for a frame house with your own hands deserves separate topics of discussion and is included in separate articles. Moreover, there are several types of suitable foundations, and which one to choose is up to you.

Here I will briefly talk about suitable foundations for a frame house, and about the cases in which each of them is used, as well as give links to their detailed description.

The most common type of foundation for a frame house is a pile-screw. This is practically the easiest and cheapest option for such a house, especially since it is not difficult to install a pile-screw foundation with your own hands.

Such a foundation is suitable for almost any soil, except for rocky ones. Particularly well suited for swampy soils, where dense soil rocks are deep and other types are very expensive.

In general, all the pros and cons of pile-screw foundations are discussed in another topic that will help you decide on the choice of support for your home.

Shallow strip foundation

Shallow strip foundation, also used for construction quite often. This is due to the relatively low cost of laying it, as well as the possibility of using concrete floors in the house.

Such a foundation, due to its relative fragility, requires precise adherence to the laying technology.

As a rule, a shallow strip foundation is used in good soils, and is strictly contraindicated on soil with a very high level of groundwater and swampy soils.

Slab foundation for a frame house

Recently, a slab foundation is gaining more and more popularity for the construction of a frame house with their own hands. Despite its low cost, it has obvious advantages, such as versatility, reliability, durability, and it can also be used as a subfloor in the house and not be spent on it separately.

Often, instead of a classic monolithic slab, a slab foundation with stiffeners is used. This allows you to save a little on laying, and also strengthens the entire structure as a whole.

Step number 3: Do-it-yourself frame house flooring

The floors in a frame house are not much different from the floors of other types of houses and can be wooden or concrete. The choice depends entirely on the type of foundation, capabilities and desires.

In this step-by-step instruction, we will consider in detail only a wooden floor, concrete - in a nutshell, since it is used less often, and it is not possible to fit everything in one article.

Concrete floor installation

It is worth noting that the concrete floor in the frame house is arranged, in cases of a slab foundation, or a strip one. Everything is clear with the slab - the slab itself will be the floor of the first floor.

But if the foundation is strip - the concrete floor is made of lightweight concrete, such as expanded clay concrete, for example.

Wooden floor installation

Let's look at the device of a wooden floor using the example of a pile-screw foundation. For a tape, in principle, everything is done in exactly the same way, with the exception of the lower trim, it can be from a thinner beam. But first things first.

Tying the foundation of a frame house

The device of a wooden floor begins with the binding of the foundation. As a rule, the strapping is made of timber 150x150 or 150x200, depending on the thickness of the wall and the distance between the piles. The greater the distance, the thicker the beam must be to avoid sagging.

The strapping is necessary, firstly, in order to give rigidity to the foundation, and secondly, to evenly distribute the load on the foundation, and thirdly, it will serve as a support for the future floor of the frame house.

In order to easily carry out the strapping process with your own hands, we divide it into several stages:

The beam is laid out along the perimeter of the foundation, the length of the walls and diagonals are checked. At this stage, the final and accurate marking of the walls is carried out, according to the project. By the way, do not forget about the waterproofing, which we put under the harness in the form of roofing material.
The next step is to outline the points of joining the timber, they should be located on the pile, as these will be the weakest points that should not “hang”. This applies to houses whose walls are longer than the length of the purchased beams.
The beam is joined with an overlap of 20-30 cm, as shown in the photo. To do this, the so-called "locks" are cut out from the end.
The corners are joined in almost exactly the same way. This is clearly visible in the photo.
The beam is attached to the foundation with bolts or studs. To do this, it is necessary to drill holes, both in the head of the foundation and in the beam itself. For ease of further installation, protruding parts - bolt heads or nuts with studs - must be deepened. The joints are additionally punched with nails of 150 mm or 200 mm, depending on the size of the beam.
Once the perimeter is ready, we move on to the final step - tying the foundation under the inner walls of the frame house. This bar, to the already installed outer one, is attached in the same way. For reinforcement, you can additionally apply mounting metal corners.

When the binding of the foundation of the frame house is ready, we proceed to the next step in our instructions - the construction of the floor frame.

Floor frame in the house

It is worth noting that already at this stage it is desirable to provide for all communications entering the house, such as water and sewerage. Electricity and gas can be supplied later, but if everything is foreseen in advance, there will be much less problems later.

The next step is to install the lag, on top of the harness. If the distance between the supports is about 4 meters, then it would be better to use a beam measuring 100x200mm or 100x150mm. You can use a board 50x200mm or 50x150mm, stitching them in two.

If the distance is less than 3 meters, you can use a board with a size of 50x150mm or better 50x200mm.

Installing a log is a simple step in assembling a frame house, but there are some nuances that need to be provided for in this manual:

Do-it-yourself waterproofing and insulation of the floor of a frame house

It is worth noting that waterproofing, as well as vapor barrier, should be installed with an overlap, according to the instructions for the material, while eliminating the ingress of moisture into the insulation, both from the outside and from the inside. And the insulation itself fits tightly, without cracks.

So we reviewed the instructions for arranging the floor of a frame house, now it's time to start on the walls.

Step number 4: Arranging the walls of a frame house

The next step of our instructions will install the walls with your own hands. Just like with the floor, we will fasten all boards and beams with nails and (or) mounting metal corners, some fastenings can be made with studs.

It should be noted that almost the entire frame is assembled from a board measuring 50x150mm or 50x200mm, depending on the required wall thickness and the required thickness of the insulation.

Some people think that it would be better to install a beam at the corners of a frame house, but this is not entirely correct, and why - a little later, during the installation process, I will tell you about everything.

So, let's start assembling the frame of the walls of the future house.

For a better understanding and assimilation, we will divide our instructions for arranging the walls of a frame house into several stages:

Assembling the walls of a frame house. Windows and doors
Installation and fastening of walls vertically in place

Assembling the walls of a frame house with your own hands. Windows and doors

We will assemble the walls on the finished floor of the frame house, this is the most convenient option. But it must be taken into account that in this case, it is necessary that all dimensions are accurate so that the walls do not turn out to be longer or shorter than the already arranged floor.

To understand what I'm talking about, first look at sectional wall of a frame house and then I'll talk about everything in order.

Now we will analyze step by step how to assemble all the walls of a frame house with our own hands:

First of all, we need to decide on the height of the ceiling in the house. Let's say that the height of the draft ceiling will be 280cm. This means that the vertical racks of the frame walls should be 280-15 = 265 cm. The diagram shows where 15 cm came from.
The distance between the uprights, as a rule, is chosen based on the width of the insulation sheet, as a rule, its width is 60 cm. If the insulation is on a cotton basis, then the distance is 2 cm less for closer contact.
The top and bottom boards of the wall are laid out on the floor and the places where the vertical posts will be nailed are marked. Then the racks themselves are laid out and pierced with nails 120-150mm. You can additionally fasten them with corners.
It is worth noting that each wall will be less than the thickness of the wall than the length of the floor. This is clearly visible on the diagram.
If the length of the wall is greater than the length of the board, then the wall is assembled from several parts. This is also done in cases where there are few helpers, because the whole assembled wall will have a lot of weight.
As a rule, jumpers are mounted between the racks to stiffen the entire structure. There are no strict rules on the number and frequency of installation, it all depends on the length and height of the walls, but usually they break through one or two for one gap between the racks. The second option is better and is visible in the photo, in the case when they break through one at a time - they are mounted in a checkerboard pattern (one at the bottom, the next at the top). This can be done later, when the walls are installed. Most often, jumpers are made with the expectation that they will serve as a joint for plywood or osb-boards, depending on further work.
Window and door openings in the wall of the frame house are arranged as shown in the diagram.
This is what it looks like in real life.

The most common mistake when assembling the walls of a frame house is that many people forget to take into account the thickness of the board in the calculations, thus the wall is not as long as we would like.

Putting the walls in place

It is worth noting that when assembling the walls, it is necessary to use a cord, pulling it from one corner to another, otherwise, the corners will be even, but the walls will not.

Upper harness and structural reinforcement

So, the wall frame is assembled, now it is necessary to make the upper trim from the same board as the walls.

The upper trim is necessary, first of all, for a stronger adhesion of the corners, and also gives unity to all parts of the frame walls and distributes the load between them.

To do this, it is necessary to pierce the board with 120-150 mm nails over the walls, around the entire perimeter, including internal bearings, so that all joints are blocked with an overlap of at least 25-30 cm. Except for corners where the overlap will be equal to the wall thickness.

The next step in our instructions will be to strengthen the entire structure as a whole. There are several options, the most common is reinforcement with plywood or OSB-plate.

As a rule, having broken one side around the entire perimeter (internal or external) with sheets of OSB-plate, the frame of the house already becomes very rigid.

Internal partitions of a frame house

The device of internal partitions is almost no different from the device of external walls, except that they have softer requirements in terms of thickness and insulation.

Internal partitions, unlike external walls, can be made thinner. Everything will depend on preferences and comfort for soundproofing.
The insulation, inside the partitions, will serve, first of all, as a sound-absorbing material, rather than as thermal insulation.
It is allowed to insulate internal partitions without waterproofing and vapor barrier materials.

These are all the main differences between the internal walls and the external ones, otherwise they are arranged in exactly the same way.

Step #5: Frame House Roof

The roof of a frame house is practically no different from the roof for other houses, be it concrete, brick or any other. I will even say more, the installation of a roof for a frame house will be less laborious than, for example, for a block or brick house, because its fastening to the walls will be much easier.

It is worth noting that the construction of a roof is a very responsible process, but if you do not have a complicated layout of the house, then you can easily do it yourself.

Building the roof of any house, including a frame house, is a very big topic, where there are many nuances. Firstly, there are many types of roofs, and it is not possible to describe everything in detail in one article. And secondly, in order not to confuse you, I, perhaps, will transfer this topic to a separate article.

Step number 6: Warming the frame house

So we got to the final stage of building a frame house - its insulation. Everything needs to be insulated - the floor, walls and ceiling.

You can read more about insulating a frame house with your own hands in another step-by-step instruction, here we will discuss only general points.

When choosing a heater for the walls of a frame house, it is necessary to take into account not only the characteristics of the heater itself, but also the features of the tree, with which not all types of insulation will interact well.

Here is a small instruction for warming a frame house with your own hands:

Outside, over the OSB sheets, a special waterproofing membrane is stretched. Which side - should be in the instructions for it.
Inside the house, between the racks, insulation is laid, in several layers, depending on the requirements for the house and the thickness of the wall. Each layer is laid with an overlap on the joint of the previous one in order to avoid cold bridges.
Floor insulation works in the same way.
It is better to insulate the ceiling from the attic, after filling the vapor barrier film from below onto the ceiling beams and hemming them with a board or plywood.
After laying the insulation, it is necessary to fill a vapor barrier film on top of it, it will protect the insulation from moisture from the inside.
Depending on the needs and further finishing work, sheathing material is stuffed on top of the film on the walls - a board or slats, but most often - OSB sheets, on top of which, in the future, a fine finish is carried out.

As you can see, there is a lot of text. But, I believe, all stages of construction have been described in detail here. do-it-yourself frame house, despite the fact that some points have been moved to separate topics, but this is only for your convenience.

I hope that by following this step-by-step instruction, you will be able to acquire a warm, cozy and reliable home without much difficulty and at minimal cost.

For the construction of modern frame houses, for the most part, only 2 technologies are used: Finnish and Canadian. And if the Finnish method involves working with the entire frame of the house at once, then how to build a house according to the Canadian method? In this method, the key point is the assembly of the flooring and only then the erection of walls and work with the roof. It is on it, as more practical and rational, that we will dwell in more detail.

Step-by-step instructions for building a conventional panel house consists of the following steps.

Competent pouring of the foundation is a rather painstaking task. It is necessary to take into account the terrain on the site itself, the presence of groundwater and its level, the seasonality of precipitation, temperature fluctuations throughout the year, and so on. The most popular in the construction of frame houses are pile or pile-grillage foundations, as well as tape foundations.

For the climate of our country, the choice in favor of a pile-grillage foundation will be the best solution. It is easy to use, durable, reliable and relatively inexpensive. In addition, it evenly distributes the weight of the house on the supports.

It is better to choose piles for such a foundation with an extended heel, as their bearing characteristics increase. You can drill holes for them manually with a drill or using automation. For formwork, they take roofing material folded in several layers, or pipes made of PVC or asbestos cement. Reinforcement bars fastened together are fastened inside the piles, and then all this is poured with concrete. After pouring, a grillage (formwork for the tape) is attached from above, into which the associated reinforcement is placed, which, in turn, is connected to the ends of the reinforcement from the piles. It is advisable to immediately leave a place for laying communications and ventilation.

Studs are necessarily attached to the foundation tape (every 1-2 m, from corners of 30 cm) - then a strapping beam will be attached to them. And then follows the general pouring of concrete (for a fortress, you can cover it with polyethylene). The foundation for the panel building is ready, with a comfortable external temperature of about 20 degrees, after 4-5 days, you can move on in construction. If the temperature is lower, you will have to wait longer - from 10 days.

Second phase. Binding, insulation, floor.

First, we make the waterproofing of the foundation, using bituminous mastic, roofing material or waterproofing. The first layer is liquid insulation, then the turn of roll insulation follows, and dry boards (beds) are attached on top, the edges of which are aligned with the height of the foundation. The second layer of boards is laid on top of the first layer to cover possible gaps.

And already strapping boards are attached to the beds - they are installed on the edge, aligned and nailed to their base. The next step will be the installation of the lag - according to the method of attachment, they resemble the installation of harnesses, they are nailed with oblique nails.

When the base for the floor is prepared, you can begin to warm it. There are various ways to insulate the floor covering, including inexpensive polystyrene foam, especially since it is not afraid of moisture. The approximate thickness of expanded polystyrene will be about 150 mm, it is laid in 2 layers to cover joints and seams. Additionally, it is recommended to walk around the perimeter with a sealant to ensure complete isolation of the surface.

After insulation, we lay a draft floor from boards and a top layer of plywood. If the plywood is large enough (more than 15 mm), then re-flooring can be dispensed with. If not, then it would be better to make another layer of boards overlapping with the first level. Our floor is ready.

When erecting walls, 2 technologies can be used - frame-panel and “balloon”. According to the first assembly of the wall frame takes place on the floor, then it is placed and fastened as a ready-made element. According to the second technology, the wall is built gradually, so to speak “in place”. The beam of the lower harness is attached, the corner posts are mounted, then the intermediate ones go, then another harness, and so on. Both that and that method are quite accessible for manual assembly.

Corner posts are selected in sizes from 100x100 to 150x150 mm, based on the total load. Intermediate racks can be smaller in thickness - up to 50 mm. The width of the gaps between the racks will depend on the selected insulation. Such racks are fastened with ordinary dowels.

Next, let's talk about cuts. If the wall is being built from durable material, you will only need mowing temporarily, while there is no sheathing on the outside. If the sheathing is type-setting, the slopes must be installed immediately and on an ongoing basis, they will give the structure the required rigidity.

Fourth stage. Overlappings.

The floor beams are usually supported by the bars of the upper trim. Ceilings can be attached to:

- corners;

- steel brackets;

- or be with a sidebar.

If the floors are fastened with a notch, then the depth of cut usually does not exceed half the thickness of the timber from the upper trim. From above, each element is fastened with 2 nails.

The dimensions of the beams are selected depending on the future number of storeys of the house. If a second floor is planned, the cross section of the beams should be large, and their installation step should be smaller. In addition, in this case, the floors will need to be covered with the subfloor of the next floor.

Fifth stage. Rafter system, roofing.

If you decide to build a frame house with your own hands, then the best roof option for it will be a gable or attic version (look at the photo)

- their designs are very similar. The only condition will be the choice of roofing material with low weight so that the wooden floors can withstand it.

To fasten the rafter systems, bars are nailed along the edges of the beams, and washed down in the rafters for it. We fill the crate and fix the truss systems in a certain position.

Sixth stage. Heaters.

A well-known insulating material for panel wooden houses is basalt wool, it is especially practical in mats - they can be easily used to insulate frame walls, they have excellent density and are more comfortable.

Mineral wool can also be used. However, for all its excellent insulating properties, it can get wet, so it should be additionally covered with a membrane.

Actually, everything. In very general terms, but you built a panel house with your own hands and you have something to be proud of. As a visual aid, we recommend watching the video below.

Winter, construction sites are standing, it's time to prepare for spring construction, collect information, think about projects, make decisions on what technology and which one to start building in the spring, and it's just around the corner.

Last year, on this forum, I told how my brother and I built a frame bath. Now I want to present you a report with photographs and explanations of the construction process of a frame house. I hope that many forum participants who are going to build it on their own will learn something interesting and useful for themselves. It will be about building this house:

Many of you buy and read DOM magazines, in the second issue of this year there is an article telling how, in just a few holidays and summer vacation, our friend managed to build such a house. In the editorial office of the magazine, the text prepared by me was slightly reduced, some of the photographs and drawings were removed, but nevertheless, the construction technology is understandable, I think, to many.

Here I will present to your attention the full text with a large number of photographs, I will try to answer your questions, just do not contact me as a professional builder, I am the same as most of you, I will be happy to tell you about all the subtleties of the entire technological process I use in construction of frame houses.

They decided to build a one-story house using frame technology, for such a structure you can use a columnar foundation, which will not take much effort and time, and you can build the frame of such a house under the roof without interior decoration within a few days.

Project. The family of the owner of the house consists of four people, which means that the house should have at least three bedrooms, one large guest room, a kitchen, a toilet room with a shower, a large terrace for evening tea drinking and outdoor dining. A typical country house of a family with an average income. The development of the project of the house was taken very seriously, since not only the issue of the convenience of the house in operation depends on it, but also the price of the house, construction technology and the time during which it is possible to build and produce the exterior and interior decoration of the house.

Initially, they planned to make two bay windows so that the house would have, as it seemed to us, an unusual appearance. But in the process of working on the drawings of the frame details, we came to the decision that without bay windows, the construction time and costs can be significantly reduced, and the house will be warmer and more practical. Based on these conditions and their technical capabilities, they made a house project.

Entrance to the house through the terrace - 13m2, in the winter season it will serve as a cold vestibule, from it we pass into a small heated corridor - 5m2, in which there is a hanger for outerwear and a shelf for shoes. From this corridor you can get to the parents' bedroom - 11m2, to the toilet room - 6m2 and to the kitchen - 18m2. The kitchen consists of two zones, next to the entrance door there is a working area with a sink, a gas stove, a refrigerator and shelves, then a dining area with a large table, a corner sofa and a metal stove-fireplace, from which you can get into the guest room-21m2 and children's bedrooms -8.6m2 and 10.8m2.

Foundation. Since it was decided to build a light one-story house using frame technology, 11 by 9 meters in size, the foundation of the house was made of a pillared one, using asbestos-cement pipes filled with concrete mortar. You can make such a foundation very quickly, moreover, there is no need to wait for a month until the cement has completely hardened.

With the help of a benzo-drill, holes with a diameter of 200 mm were drilled in the ground. to a depth of about one meter. The distance between the posts is 80-90cm.
Asbestos-cement pipes with an inner diameter of 100 mm and a length of 1.3 m were installed in the drilled holes according to the level. They sprinkled sand around the pipes, spilled water and rammed it, poured concrete mortar into the pipes in proportion: a bucket of cement, four buckets of sand and five to six buckets of rubble. In the pipes on which the floor logs will rest, special plates were installed for attaching the log.
Over two weekends, 125 pipes were installed and filled with concrete.

Wells were drilled to a depth of about one meter.

The pipes were installed according to the level and plumb, and then sprinkled around with sand and trombovali.

Pipes were filled with concrete mortar through a special funnel.

During the May holidays from May 7-9, all the pipes of the foundation of the future house were installed and filled with concrete mortar.