Casing box for windows in wood. Casing for wooden windows

The technology for installing a plastic PVC window in a wooden house differs from the traditional one. Compared to brick or concrete houses, wooden houses are more susceptible to shrinkage. Therefore, the installation of a plastic window differs in the preparation of the opening, and even in the sequence of operations.

Features of shrinkage of a wooden house

All houses settle, exerting pressure on the ground - stone houses are larger, wooden houses are smaller. The correct selection of the type of foundation, taking into account the characteristics of the soil (including its heterogeneity, the depth of groundwater, the nature of the perched water, etc.), allows minimizing the effect of settlement on the geometry of the structure.

House shrinkage is a consequence of changes in the size of the building materials themselves.

It manifests itself especially strongly in the first years of operation of wooden houses built from logs or timber of natural moisture. Therefore, the installation of windows in a new house is carried out when it has passed the “active phase” of shrinkage, which is from 6 months to a year (depending on the type of wood, region and cutting season, type of material, etc.). But even then the shrinkage continues, but already much less.

Minimum shrinkage for glued beams, a little more for chamber-drying beams. In new houses made of such materials, windows can be installed immediately, after the construction of the walls and the arrangement of the roof.

But in any case, when installing windows, these features of wooden houses must be taken into account.

The role of the pigtail in a wooden house

The peculiarity of a tree is that it reacts unevenly to changes in its own humidity. Longitudinal dimensions (relative to the location of the fibers) almost do not change. A change in its own moisture affects the transverse dimensions - its natural decrease leads to drying out.

Therefore, when a wooden house shrinks, the height of the wall and the vertical size of the window opening decrease.

The only difference is in the order - first they mount the window sill, and then they fix the frame.

Important! When installing a window, make sure that the side fastening of the window profile to the casing is not through.

When foaming the window, the mounting seam is protected from the penetration of water vapor from the side of the opening and the room with a vapor-tight film, and from the side of the street - with a moisture-resistant vapor-permeable membrane (the so-called warm installation).

Finishing the window with platbands protects the seam from the influence of climatic factors and the destructive effect of solar ultraviolet radiation (plus a decorative function).

With age, you begin to take the age-old traditions and technologies of wooden housing construction more seriously, so when installing windows in a bathhouse, we decided to use the almost classic technology of using casing boxes. Why practically we will tell a little lower, believe me, this reservation is very important.

Unfortunately, in the main house (about a series of articles), due to a lack of experience and finances at that time, we decided to simplify the technology and install windows without casing. In general, after some rationalization proposals, it also turned out to be more or less reliable and warm (more on installing windows in the house), but in the bathhouse, especially with a large window in the rest room, we decided not to tempt fate.

The washing window in a completely finished form, of course, with such architraves, the bathhouse looks completely different. But the most important thing is hidden inside the modern casing. For lovers of carving, we recommend that you take a look at a more advanced version of the finish of the platbands using a two-level carving. This is how the bathhouse was finished, cut down almost according to a similar project (but on 2 floors). Very interesting, please take a look...

At the intersection of old and new...

With the problem of windows and casing, we again turned to Denis Migachev (general director of Rus Logs) for old times' sake. He said that the company is now introducing a new and effective technology for creating casing boxes, which has received the beautiful name Dew Point from carpenters. I remembered what the previous classic casing box looked like (I give a photo of it below) - in it a double-glazed window (plastic or wooden) was inserted into the box from the outside (i.e. from the side of the street).

An example of casings made using the previous technology. Please note that the recess for the window here is made from the outside (on the other side of the inner window sill). In this case, the window turns out to be not so insulated and condensation often forms at the junction of the window with the frame in winter (this is the so-called dew point), which then accumulates on a wooden window sill. In the new design, the dew point is located inside the structure, so the formation of condensation on the windows is much less.

What has changed, I asked Denis. He explained that now the double-glazed window is closed with a wooden plank, both from the outside and from the inside. Due to this, a reliable thermal lock is obtained, which hides the notorious dew point in its depths. What does it give? And the fact that condensate will no longer form on the inside of your windows and flow down, gathering on the windowsill.

It is better to see once than to hear a hundred times, I decided and went to the master carpenters. Sergey, head of the carpentry shop, showed what a new, improved casing design is. Of course, he said, if you wish, we can make you a classic design, but we recommend you a slightly more expensive, but more reliable design under the sonorous name Dew Point.

I used to trust professionals, especially those recommended by Denis, so a little later I measured and handed over to Sergey all the sizes of the window openings in the bathhouse and waited.

By the way, one more remark about the phrase Don't have 100 rubles.... At Sergey's request, I also had to give him the thickness of the walls in the bathhouse, so that the thickness of the casing exactly matched it. There are 4 windows in the log house, everything is clear with three, but what to do with the steam room?

Firstly, as window experts explained to me, it is not recommended to put metal-plastic double-glazed windows in the steam room. High temperatures have a negative effect on plastic and rubber seals, and it is not clear what gases will be released during such heating. We left the order for the window to the steam room for later (Sergey and his masters will also do it).

Secondly, what to do with the thickness of the box. In a situation where we measure openings with an accuracy of a millimeter, it was at least unreasonable to guess on the coffee grounds what the thickness of the wall in the steam room would be. Who is not in the subject I will explain. The steam room will later be sheathed from the inside, first with vertical bars (isolated on slides from the walls, because the log house will sit down, but the steam room sheathing boards will not), then with horizontal guide bars, and only then vertically with linden clapboard. Looking at the round logs of the wall, I tried to understand how the cladding described above would go in the future. It turned out plus or minus a tram stop.

As always, I called Denis to consult with him about the design of the steam room cladding. He told me not to worry, but order the fourth box later, when the steam room lining is completed. And sure enough, I thought I was suffering. Therefore, in the photo you can see 4 sets of architraves and only three casing boxes themselves.

Features of the design of the casing and platbands.

The long-awaited moment of readiness of casings has come. Initially, we wanted to carry casings in our car, but then I realized that I couldn’t shove a two-meter box into my room, I didn’t want to have fun with a roof rack. Without any problems, Sergey arranged delivery by Gazelle for me at a very reasonable price.

Let's get acquainted with our miracle design. Looking ahead a little, I bring photos of already painted casings, do not be surprised. So, the window frame design consists of three blocks:

• directly to the casing with 4 locking bars (photo above),
• finished outer casing,
• internal casing, consisting of two elements (lower bar and U-shaped upper part).

The design of the casing itself and the procedure for attaching the strips locking the double-glazed windows are shown in the previous and subsequent photos. Two words about coloring. Traditionally, we did not make contrasting colors of architraves and boxes (although it looks very impressive), so the architraves on the outside will be painted in the color of the outer walls (yellow), and the architraves on the inside - in the color of the inner walls (almost transparent). Well, what to do with painting the box, because it will be visible from the outside and a little (in the form of a window sill) from the inside.

I did not have fun with the two-color painting of the box and considered that the varnish for outdoor work is more resistant, so it will only be a plus if the window sill is painted in the outer yellow. That is why the outer casing, the box itself and one lower plank are painted yellow, and 3 more planks and the inner casing are transparent white.

In the photos above, I hope the mutual arrangement of the slats on the box is quite clear. And in the next photo, the texture of the pine is clearly visible and, in general, the beauty of the outer casing. By the way, you can not order the platbands themselves, but order only the boxes - this is a mandatory functionality.

External and internal platbands can be bought as blanks in hardware stores, cut and installed independently. Of course, it will be a little cheaper, but you will lose in beauty, and most importantly, you will need to involve a carpenter who will cut and fasten all the trim on the spot. This also costs money, so now we have to do this to complete the window decoration in the house.

Therefore, after quite a short hesitation, we ordered not only boxes, but also platbands. Of course, they look completely different than those that we installed in the house a few years ago. The most important thing is that I did not have to involve anyone to install boxes and trim - I calmly installed everything myself. This is also a saving, and for us, rather time. Although, if you don’t want to mess with it, you can ask the carpenters of Russia to do it ...

What the painted inner trim looks like, awaiting installation, is shown in the following photo.

To make their design more understandable, here is a photo of an already mounted window. As you can see, the upper U-shaped part of the casing is attached above the window sill (by the way, it is very convenient when screwing with self-tapping screws), and the lower bar closes the gap under the window sill. I recommend using white (galvanized) or yellow self-tapping screws - they will behave better in the future with high humidity, which is inherent in the bath.

Coloring process...

You can order the coloring of boxes and platbands to Sergey's masters, or you can do it yourself. Since we had an electric spray gun (see photo below), we decided to do it ourselves. The only rainy weather made our task a little more difficult, but in general everything turned out fine. How to paint wood (use of soil, number of layers, etc.) is described in our articles on painting a bathhouse and a house (see and). The photo below shows the beginning of the process of painting boxes and external trim.

Let's take another close-up of the main node of our box, and at the same time admire the natural beauty of pine wood.

Finally, our platbands and boxes are ready, we put them away for now in the bath, away from the rain.

Sudden drama and its resolution...

I cannot but mention one truly dramatic situation. I believe that my other colleagues, developers of log houses, can also get into it. In the process of making a log house, it was difficult for us to predict which windows and which architraves we would install. Therefore, it is traditional to frame windows, i.e. their hemming was done to a distance of 10 cm of the flat part. When we brought the casings, painted and installed the boxes themselves, and began to try on the outer and inner casings, tears almost flowed from my eyes. The platbands simply did not fit into the existing clasps.

What to do? I have already started trying on how much to cut off from the ends of the architraves so that they fit into the openings. But at the same time, of course, there was no talk of any beauty of the design. The mood of course completely spoiled. It was already after midnight, we decided that the morning was wiser than the evening and went to bed.

The morning came and the most effective solution was to call the same Denis - our good wizard. After listening to the situation, he was categorically against damaging the architraves. We agreed that he would send a carpenter to widen the gaps in the openings to the required dimensions. So we did. How it looked shown in the following photos, on the left - the frame is expanded, on the right - the same place after painting. Over time, the color will be almost the same.

In the same way, openings in other windows would be expanded. Therefore, no matter how hopeless the situation may seem, I recommend not to hang your nose, but to turn to professionals, because many issues have long been resolved by someone, you just need to know this solution. They have helped us many times.

The next photo is interesting with a view from the street to the rest room. You can see how big (and heavy) the window is to be installed. We did not dare to mount it without casing boxes. This photo shows two more interesting points. Firstly, these are packs of Paroc mineral wool left after the insulation of the roof of the house and bath (you should always take it with a small margin). We will use this high-quality Finnish wool to insulate window casings. Secondly, our beautiful brick sauna stove, its construction was told.

I also had to trim the inner frames of the windows a little, the photo below shows the result of the carpenter's work. By the way, this result was obtained by virtuoso work with a chainsaw and subsequent grinding with a grinder.

In the same photo, attention is focused on a fairly large gap for shrinkage of the log house, its dimensions are described in the commentary to the photo.

Another installed box is in the washing room. Also visible are the spots.

A little about the process of installing the casings themselves in the openings of the log house.

A few words about the installation of casing boxes in the window openings of the log house. In principle, this is not a very complicated procedure, having little experience, I carried it out myself. The main thing here is to level the window in all directions due to the lining system. Next, you need to fasten the casing with the help of powerful self-tapping screws on the side (Attention!) To the cranial bars, and from below - you can into the very log of the opening. By the way, from experience I will say that it is better to put linings on the side, so that the self-tapping screw does not pull the cranial bar out of its groove.

In the future, when all gaps are insulated, it is advisable to remove or replace the linings with shorter ones so that they do not become a cold bridge.

Installation of double-glazed windows - we hide the dew point.

The windows have finally arrived. We also ordered windows through specialists recommended by Denis. Installing windows in a wooden house or bath is a bit of an art and is significantly different from installing, for example, in a brick house. By the way, at the same time, the price was quite affordable, given the quality of the profile. As in the house, we decided to focus on Rehau Brilliant windows, this is the warmest profile from Rehau, plus it is the only one made in Germany. But this time, on the advice of the installer, we decided to use a thicker double-glazed window (40 mm) with energy-saving glass.

For simplified installation of double-glazed windows, a gap of 7 mm is provided on each side between the window frame and the casing. Initially, the window is installed on plastic stands, leveled in all directions, fixed in the box with self-tapping screws. Next, the supports are removed, and the gaps between the window and the casing are filled with foam.

For the convenience of work, the installer temporarily removed the glass of non-opening sashes from the double-glazed windows (see inset in the photo below).

After the foam dries, its remnants are cut off, and the turn comes to install the 4 strikers shown above along the perimeter of the window. The result is a robust and warm design with a deep-seated dew point. Planks can be fastened to finishing nails, or to small self-tapping screws, the heads of which can be hidden with plastic plugs. We just used yellow screws.

Insulation of gaps - what and how. Introduced know-how.

The turn of the insulation of the gaps between the log cabin of the bath and the casing has come. Very important! In no case do not insulate with mounting foam - especially a new log house. Unfortunately, many programs show such an erroneous approach. Foam can only be used to insulate the bottom gap. For side and top clearance, mineral wool, flax jute and other soft materials should be used. The following photo shows the result of such insulation.

Look at the large and uneven gap between the casing and the lower log (pictured below). Mineral wool will not save here - sooner or later it will sag and a gap will form through which it will blow. There is nothing to do - we use mounting foam. But, the mounting foam should remain relatively soft even after drying.

Already having a fairly large experience in building a house and a bath, I ventured to make two improvements to the technology of casing insulation. Nevertheless, this gag has the right to exist and obviously will not worsen the situation.

The first improvement is the fastening of a strip of waterproofing membrane with a stapler (it is used when installing a roof or insulating floors and ceilings). The membrane will allow water to be removed in the form of steam from the insulation, but will not allow water and steam to penetrate there. In addition, if suddenly the mineral wool shrinks (this happens, because the log house is a living organism, it constantly plays up and down in height), then this membrane will prevent blowing through this gap.

The second know-how is associated with the use of extruded polyethylene bundles, which we used together with a sealant to insulate the walls of the house (you can read about this by clicking on the link below), plus we used this bundle together with the sealant when insulating windows in the house (I remind you - there they are without casing).

Shrinkage of mineral wool can occur (and actually occurs) in vertical gaps, therefore, to ensure that it is not blown through, we decided to block these gaps from the inside with bundles. These bundles do not prevent the shrinkage of the log house, but they well cover the insulation from moisture and wind.

The following photo shows both of our improvements.

The final touch is filling the lower gaps with mounting foam. In the photo below - the most problematic place - in the washing.

The gap under the window in the vestibule turned out to be only a few millimeters thick, and I realized that I had made a small mistake. It was necessary to slightly raise the box, so the foam does not pass well into such narrow spaces.

All is ready!

Well, actually, that's all, you can put platbands. Sergey, at my request, made holes in the architraves and in the casing, due to this I was able to install all the architraves alone, which is very convenient. Below is the finished vestibule window.

And this is our pride - a large window from the rest room, we hope it will be nice to look out the window, sipping a cup of tea after the steam room.

How the windows look from the inside can be seen in the next photo (the images of the windows of the washing room and the rest room have already been given above). We thought that the yellow window sill would be appropriate, and most importantly - functional, because. it is protected by an outer varnish. Well, we have already seen that the window sill in a house or apartment is a collection of all small things.

This concludes our story about unusual casing boxes and their installation method.

Installing windows in private wooden buildings is a rather specific process and must be treated with all due care. One of the most important elements of finishing window openings is the pigtail. Not a single installation of plastic structures in wooden houses can do without it.

What is a pigtail and why is it needed, we will talk today.

What is a pigtail?

Despite the emergence of new building methods and materials, log buildings remain in demand among Russians. The thing is that such buildings have undeniable advantages: starting with complete environmental friendliness and ending with a stunning appearance.

However, wooden houses have their own peculiarities. For example, shrinkage, as a result of which the crowns often shift to the side. For the same reason, the height of the walls is noticeably reduced. The reason for shrinkage, as a rule, is a seasonal set and loss of moisture from the wood.

Shrinkage can be reduced by wintering the log house in the assembled state. It is better if the building stands idle for several seasons without interior decoration.

However, shrinkage cannot be completely eliminated. Therefore, shrinkage is most reflected in window and door openings. The displacement of logs can deform openings so much that they can not only stop opening, but also completely collapse.

The box consists of:

• apex;
• sidewalls;
• threshold (for a doorway) or window sill (for a window opening).

The width of each element almost never exceeds 25 centimeters. Of course, you can use a wider box, but this can lead to cracks along its entire length during use.
For casing, wood with a moisture content of at least 10-12 percent is used.

The fact is that drier wood may have internal cracks - not visually noticeable, but capable of leading to the destruction of the box during shrinkage.

There are three types of pigtails:

• mortgage bar;
• pigtail "in the thorn";
• casing "in the block".

The first type of casing is the cheapest and most affordable option of all. The box is made from an ordinary edged board with a thickness of 30 to 50 millimeters. In the inner side of the opening, a square groove is cut out for the timber, to which the finishing board will subsequently be attached.

This kind of design is simple and fast installation, but it must be remembered that such casing requires additional finishing of the slopes after the installation of the window frame.

The “thorn” pigtail is most often used in the construction of buildings from profiled timber. With this method, casing is made from a single rectangular bar in the shape of the letter “T”, while the lower part of the “letter” is subsequently inserted into the groove of the “crossbar”, which at the same time is a window slope.

The most expensive option is to install the box "in the block". Here, a spike is sawn out in the side parts of the opening, on which a deck specially sawn in the shape of the letter “P” is then planted.

The use of ordinary timber or edged boards instead of these structures is useless from the point of view of time and finances, since such manipulations will inevitably lead to deformation.

The principles of installing a pigtail in a wooden house for plastic windows in the video:

What is needed for

Casing is an integral element of wooden architecture and has been used in construction by craftsmen since ancient times.

As practice shows, the refusal to use the pigtail leads to a disruption in the functioning of the openings, as well as to serious heat losses due to the formation of cracks and gaps between the logs and frames.

Thanks to the pigtail, side logs or beams cannot move in a horizontal direction. In addition, the casing leaves a gap for vertical movement, thus protecting the glass from destruction.

If the gap between adjacent windows is very small, then the role of the pigtail increases significantly.

In addition, a well-made casing significantly decorates the facade of the house.

For plastic windows

Okosyachki require not only wooden, but also plastic windows. But the whole process of installing casing for plastic windows has its own characteristics.

First of all, it is necessary to prepare the opening in advance: the window frame should be at least 14 centimeters narrower than the opening.

When calculating the size of the gap, it is necessary to take into account the shrinkage coefficient of the house, the thickness of the seams and casing boards.

Then, as a base for a carriage with a groove at the end of the opening, a comb is cut out. During shrinkage, the beams or logs will move inside the groove, due to which excessive load will be removed from the window.

It is best for the gun carriage to choose a bar 150 by 100 millimeters with a groove in the middle. In this case, the width of the groove should be five centimeters wider than the window.

Cut the comb with a chainsaw, as this will provide more accuracy.

For the top, it is worth taking an edged board 150 by 40 millimeters, since the grooves for the comb will be cut out on each side of the board.

Upon completion of the installation of the carriages, the top is fixed with self-tapping screws.

After assembling the pigtails, all gaps must be caulked and sealed with jute thread.

For doorways

As practice shows, casing is necessary not only where doors and windows will be installed, but also in decorative openings, since internal logs and beams are also subject to temperature fluctuations.

The design of the door frame is not much different from the window frame.

The top is set a couple of centimeters above the top beam or log.

In this case, the vertical sliding of the logs will be ensured by the sidewalls, which, unlike window frames, do not require insulation.

Installing a window frame in a wooden house in the video:

Do-it-yourself installation of a pigtail

In order to mount the pigtail yourself, you need to prepare the following tools:

• jigsaw;
• circular saw;
• chainsaw;
• electric drill with screwdriver function;
• grinder;
• building level;
• roulette;
• pencil/marker.

Do not use mounting foam to seal joints and gaps when installing casing yourself.

The thing is that the foam fastens the logs with the elements of the pigtail so rigidly that they cannot sit down without hindrance. So, the use of mounting foam will negate the whole point of installing casing.

Casing must be installed before caulking.

Let's consider a step-by-step action plan for self-installation of a window pigtail "into a spike":

• using a chainsaw, align the opening;
• draw vertical lines along the middle of both ends;
• measure from each line 3 centimeters on each side;
• according to the marked markings, use a chainsaw to cut out niches for the spike;
• treat the opening with an antiseptic;
• make a T-bar of the desired size using a circular saw;
• treat the side elements of the pigtail with an antiseptic, fix them with self-tapping screws;
• leaving a five-centimeter gap to insert the insulation, insert the top jumper;
• insert a window sill;
• caulk joints;
• glue the sidewalls with breathable tape.

The installation of the casing structure for doors takes place according to the same scheme, with the difference that the parts will be correspondingly larger.

Thus, the installation of a pigtail in wooden buildings is mandatory, regardless of what type of windows will be used - metal-plastic or wooden.

Based on the foregoing, we can conclude that installing a pigtail on your own is not such a difficult task as it might seem at first, and does not require deep knowledge in construction.

Okosyachka or casing - why is it needed?

All wooden buildings inevitably shrink a lot due to the drying of the wood. Since the material twists and bends, shrinkage can cause severe deformation of the openings in the house.

Therefore, in order to avoid deformation of windows and doors, it is necessary to carry out the casing.

The product consists of the following parts:

• apex;
• sidewalls;
• window sill/threshold.

An okosyachka should be installed strictly before carrying out caulking work.

The casing protects the openings from the pressure of the logs from above and creates the gap necessary for shrinkage.

The side parts create the possibility of vertical movement of the logs, which protects the window glass from destruction.

In most cases, the pigtail box is made of coniferous wood.

Kinds

Experts distinguish two main types of casing: U-shaped and T-shaped.

U-shaped pigtail "into the deck"

This type of casing is classic. When installing the pigtail, a spike is cut out at the end of the wall, on which the vertical part of the casing with a groove will subsequently be installed. Thanks to this groove, the log house will be able to move vertically during shrinkage without destroying windows or doors. This is due to the fact that after the installation of the casing, pressure from the logs will not be exerted on them.

The pigtail is necessarily treated with an antiseptic, and a soft insulating material is placed between the groove and the spike. The gaps above the top are also covered with insulation.

Under the windowsill, wind protection is provided by a wind lock.

T-shaped pigtail "in the spike"

The casing has such a name due to the fact that the side parts of the structure have T-shaped profiles.

To mount a T-shaped pigtail, it is necessary to cut a groove at the end of the opening, into which bars will subsequently be glued, which act as stiffeners. It is these bars that will guarantee the stability of the casing box and the uniform shrinkage of the log house.

When installing T-type casing, it is extremely important to strictly follow the installation technology.

For example, if you fix the bar with nails or self-tapping screws, then blowing or freezing the opening is almost guaranteed.

An important role in the installation of the casing is played by the treatment with an antiseptic and the insulation of the seams with a compressible material.

Installation steps

In order to make a successful installation of the casing of the opening, it is necessary to follow the installation technology:

• cut an opening at a height of 80-90 centimeters from the floor, depending on the height of the person; at the same time, between the opening and the structure, make a shrinkage gap of 35-60 millimeters;
• using a chainsaw, cut a groove or ridge, depending on the type of pigtail chosen;
• treat all surfaces with an antiseptic;
• insulate the opening;
• install all wooden elements: top, sidewalls and window sill / threshold.

Mounting foam cannot be used to insulate the opening, as it prevents the free movement of the structure vertically.

What does the price depend on

The cost of construction and its installation directly depends on three parameters:

• from the thickness of the walls;
• on the size of the opening;
• from the quality of a wooden house.

Since wooden structures can be built from timber and logs, the thickness of their walls varies significantly - from 140 to 300 millimeters. And since the dimensions of the details of the casing box in width must correspond to the walls of the house, when calculating the cost of the pigtail, it is necessary to take into account the width of the walls.

The size of the opening also affects the final cost of the structure. The larger the opening, the more material will be required to make the pigtail, which means that more time will be spent on the entire process. In addition, the cost of casing also depends on the shape of the opening: a standard rectangular design will cost significantly less than a complex polygonal version.

As for the quality of construction, if the log house is assembled without any connecting elements, then the walls will bend in the cut openings. In this case, additional straightening of the frame will be required.

In addition, timber houses are assembled on nails, which can be up to 300 millimeters long. In such situations, additional financial support and time will be required to sharpen chains for a gasoline saw or purchase new ones.

About the technological differences of casing in a wooden house in the video:

Installation Features

Installation of a pigtail in a wooden house has a number of features that must be considered when creating and installing the structure.

The width of the constituent elements of the casing box can reach 26 centimeters. In some cases, the width may be greater than the specified value, but then cracks may appear along the entire length of the pigtail.

The lower the moisture content of the wood, the greater the likelihood of internal cracks.

Particular care and attention requires the manufacture of casing for metal doors.

Masters distinguish two types of casing.

For the first type, grooves are machined at the end of the openings for the ideal entry of one side of the pigtail. This method is used to install simple wooden windows.

Plastic windows cannot be fixed in this way, therefore, a different type of casing is used to install such profiles: a comb is cut out at the ends of the opening, on which a carriage with a groove is then placed.

During shrinkage, the comb will squeeze into the groove of the carriage, so that the window will remain intact.

Okosyachka in a house made of timber

For each of the openings of the house from the timber, the pigtail is made separately.

As in the case of a log structure, the installation of casing implies the absence of screws, nails and other foreign elements.

But between the log and the frame, it is necessary to lay a heater for maximum sealing of the structure.

The casing manufacturing technology was developed by the architects of Russia for many centuries. Thanks to a properly installed pigtail, doors and windows in a wooden house acquire high sound and heat insulation properties, and the openings remain undamaged due to shrinkage.

Properly made casing can last up to a hundred years.

Even if the log house has stood without interior decoration for a couple of years, and already, it would seem, has shrunk, one cannot do without a pigtail. The fact is that the presence of casing makes the wall much more stable and durable, and retains the shape of the opening unchanged.

In addition to the main functions, the pigtail can be made an element of the external decor of the building.

Nowadays, a whole industry for the manufacture of pigtails has been established, thanks to which it will not be difficult to choose the most suitable casing for the exterior.

Installing a PVC window in a wooden house in the video:

rates, cost

Casing fabrication and installation costs can vary greatly depending on a variety of factors.

As a rule, the final cost of a pigtail depends on factors such as:

• wood quality;
• casing type;
• casing form;
• the presence of decor;
• opening dimensions.

In addition, the material where the part will be installed is of no small importance: a log, timber or a log house.

Of course, the quantity is also related to the final price of the order.

Types of jobs

Experts distinguish three types of work on the manufacture of casing:

• massive;
• adhesive;
• combined.

First type of work means the processing of solid wood while maintaining the necessary structure of the tree.

adhesive look involves the implementation of the casing from a type-setting board: it is glued into a microthorn on all four sides of the opening. Knots and resin pockets must be completely cut out.

Combined method is the most common type of work. When using this method, the top and risers are made from an array of coniferous trees. And the window sill or threshold is made from typesetting boards. All of it has a fine appearance and after installation it needs only paint and varnish processing.

An okosyachka is always made according to the dimensions of each opening separately.

When placing an order, you need to know exactly which windows and doors will subsequently be installed in the future casing.

The design can be made:

• with a selection under the window;
• without sampling under the window.

The first option is used in cases where it is not planned to carry out exterior and interior finishing work in the building, and the walls will remain intact.

If finishing work will be carried out in the house, then the option without sampling will be optimal. This type of pigtail can be both finishing and roughing, if the future finish will completely block the casing.

Among other things, the casing can be made in any shape. In standard situations, the pigtail has a rectangular shape, but sometimes it is required to manufacture non-standard casing in the form of a polygon, trapezoid or balcony blocks. The non-standard format has its drawbacks, but with a competent approach, they can be avoided.

All of the above information is discussed with the measurer during the site visit.

Consequences of breaking technology

Failure to comply with the installation technology of the pigtail can lead to unpleasant consequences for the owner of the wooden structure.

natural consequences

Among the natural consequences of installing doors and windows without pigtails, the main ones are:

• the formation of gaps between logs and timber;
• wall curvature;
• extrusion of piers between openings;
• destruction of double-glazed windows;
• constant adjustment of the opening of the window sashes;
• door malfunction.

Substitutes for a full-fledged casing

Substitutes for pigtails are often a bar and a board.

Unfortunately, in recent times, the use of a bar and a board has become a traditional option for pigtails, which subsequently leads to unnecessary rework costs.

When using this method, even a double beam 100 by 50 millimeters will not withstand pressure and will soon bend.

Only parts from the array are capable of holding the load that the structure experiences during shrinkage. This must be taken into account.

Installation of windows and doors in a wooden house

Doors and windows in wooden buildings must be installed taking into account the basic properties of wood - only in this case it will be possible to make really high-quality casing and avoid additional costs for rework.

In a wooden house, the installation of windows and doors should be accompanied by the manufacture of a casing.

The casing box - it is also a pigtail - is a product made of timber in the form of a window or doorway in a house made of logs or timber.

The pigtail is an indispensable element in the construction of all wooden buildings, including those made of:

• profiled timber;
• glued beam;
• chopped log;
• rounded log.

The algorithm for installing a pigtail in a wooden house, see the video:

Tasks that the installation of a pigtail solves

The main tasks of casing installation are:

• strengthening the walls;
• distortion protection;
• fixing repaired walls;
• room sealing;
• sound and heat insulation;
• protection of windows and doors from destruction due to deformation and compression during shrinkage;
• creating a pleasant appearance of the building.

What happens?

Experts distinguish several types of pigtails:

• draft;
• finishing;
• Euro;
• power;
• combined;
• arched.

Let's take a closer look at each of them.

Draft

Rough casing is the most affordable and inexpensive option for pigtails. The best option for houses with further finishing of openings.

• average price for 1m.p. from 160 rubles;
• material - solid pine.

For example, casing for a window opening of 1.2 by 1.2 meters with a product size of 45 by 150 millimeters of types "T" and "P" will cost 1,480 rubles, excluding the cost of installation work.

Finishing

Fine casing is an inexpensive option for pigtails and does not require subsequent finishing of slopes.

It has the following characteristics:

• average price for 1m.p. from 270 rubles;
• material - solid pine.

For example, casing for a window opening of 1.2 by 1.2 meters with a product size of 90 by 150 millimeters of type "P" will cost 2,758 rubles, excluding the cost of installation work.

euroobsada

Euro-obsada is an inexpensive option for pigtails and does not need subsequent finishing of slopes.

It has the following characteristics:

• average price for 1m.p. from 460 rubles;
• material - adhesive from solid lamellas (pine).

For example, casing for a window opening of 1.2 by 1.2 meters with a product size of 90 by 150 millimeters of type "P" will cost 4,155 rubles, excluding the cost of installation work.

Power

Power casing is recommended for installation in arched openings, panoramic windows, balcony blocks, gates and swing doors.

It has the following characteristics:

• average price for 1m.p. from 905 rubles;
• material - glued pine wood.

For example, casing for a window opening of 1.2 by 1.2 meters with a product size of 90 by 150 millimeters will cost 5,200 rubles, excluding the cost of installation work.

Combined

When installing a combined pigtail, the base of the box is made of a coniferous array, and the top layer is made of a type-setting pine, beech or oak slab.

The total cost of the combined casing is calculated on an individual basis.

Arched

Arched casing is intended solely for strengthening arches. It can be made from solid pine wood and type-setting glued timber.

The final cost of the product directly depends on the size and radius of the openings and is calculated on an individual basis.

Summing up, I would like to note that a well-executed pigtail will guarantee the safety of windows and doors of a wooden house, and will not only preserve their functionality, but also give a pleasant appearance to the facade of the building.

The algorithm for making an arched pigtail in the video:

Okosyachka, casing of window and door openings

What is a pigtail or casing? Why is it performed?

Over time, wooden houses shrink a lot due to the fact that the tree shrinks. Wood twists and bends, and this can warp and damage windows and doors. So that the shrinkage of the house does not lead to deformation of window structures and doors, you need to make a pigtail or casing.

The pigtail protects the openings from pressure from above and creates the gap necessary for shrinkage. The side parts of the pigtails have poses that create vertical sliding. Most often, the pigtail is made of coniferous wood. It consists of a top, sidewalls and a window sill (threshold).

Important! The casing must be installed before caulking.

Types of pigtails (casing)

U-shaped pigtail (in the deck)

Classic pigtail. For its implementation, a spike is cut out at the end of the wall, a vertical part of the casing with a groove is installed on it, along which the frame moves vertically due to shrinkage. Thanks to this, no pressure is exerted on the door and window structure, which guarantees their proper functioning and durability. The casing is treated with an antiseptic, and a soft insulation is placed between the spike and the groove. Protection against blowing under the windowsill provides a wind lock. The gaps above the upper part of the pigtail are closed with soft insulating material.

T - figurative pigtail (in a spike)

The T-shaped pigtail is made as follows: a groove is cut at the end of the opening, and the side parts of the casing have T-shaped profiles. Bars are glued into the grooves on the risers of the pigtails, which act as stiffeners, they guarantee the stability of the casing shape and uniform shrinkage of the walls.

When installing a T-shaped pigtail, strict adherence to technology is required. For example, if you fix the bar with nails or self-tapping screws, there is a possibility of freezing or blowing through the window and door opening. An important role in the casing is played by antiseptic treatment and insulation of the seams with a compressible material.

U- or T-shaped pigtail is selected depending on the house. When leaving the site, the measurer will tell you the most suitable type of casing. Our craftsmen professionally perform the full range of work on the manufacture and installation of casing in wooden houses.

Stages of installation of pigtails (casing)

1. opening cutout done at a distance of 80-90 cm from the floor, when determining this distance, the height of a person is taken into account. Between the opening and the window or door structure, you need to make a shrinkage gap of 35-60 mm.

2. Opening preparation. Using a chainsaw, depending on the type of pigtail, a groove or comb is cut out in the opening.

3. Processing and warming. After installing the pigtail, its surfaces are treated with an antiseptic, insulation is placed in the gaps. When installing the pigtails, you can not use mounting foam, since the window structure must move freely vertically.

4. Installation of wooden elements. At the end, the installation of wooden elements is carried out, namely the window sill, sidewalls and top.

Prices for casing, pigtail

We carry out installation of casing boxes with high-quality materials. Performing work on the installation of casing boxes, the Department guarantees quality that meets European standards.

What influences the price of a sling?

1. Wall thickness: wooden houses are built from logs and timber, so the thickness of the walls can be from 140 to 300 mm. The dimensions of the details of the pigtail in width correspond to the walls of the house, or slightly exceed it. You also need to consider the width of the window sill.

2. Opening size: the larger the opening, the more material it will take to make a pigtail and the time to work. The shape of the opening also affects the price of the casing: a standard rectangular design or a complex polygonal one.

3. Wooden house quality: if the walls are assembled without connecting elements, the curvature of the walls occurs in the cut openings. Then you have to additionally straighten the walls, which leads to additional costs. Timber houses are assembled on nails that meet at 300 mm. Because of this, additional funds and time are required to sharpen chains for a chainsaw or buy new ones.

Photos of our projects. Casing (pigtail) of door and window openings

A frame made of timber or boards to strengthen the window and door base of the opening is called a pigtail or casing. The fact is that wood is a fickle material, houses made of it can “play”, that is, shrink or swell at high humidity.

The window frame in a wooden house is needed so that the frames do not move during shrinkage. In fact, casing is an additional frame that is not attached directly to the wall. Due to this, a slight adjustment of the opening is possible in case the wall leads to the side.

For all its simplicity, the installation of such a design is really effective.

Types and features of pigtails

Casing in a wooden house can be one of three types, depending on the material and method of manufacture:

• adhesive . The design is created from type-setting boards, carefully processed from knots and errors in the structure of the tree. It behaves well at high compression strains;
• from a solid wood. For such a pigtail, a beam or an ordinary board is used. It looks most attractive while maintaining the overall texture of the wood;
• combined. In the manufacture of solid wood elements and adhesive parts are used.

A window frame is selected depending on what kind of work will be carried out during finishing.

For rough work, glue or combined types are quite suitable. They will be invisible during the next fine finish of the house with siding or other materials.

Before starting the assembly of the casing and installing the window or door structure, consider the following points.

The installation of the pigtail is carried out until the house is completely insulated. The blocks are installed taking into account the carriages, "sliding" along the casing guides.

The material from which the door or window is made is taken into account (metal, plastic, glass, etc.). For the manufacture of windows or doors to order, the dimensions are calculated only after the complete installation of the casing.

Installation Methods

It is possible to install a pigtail in a wooden house using different technologies.

The first is the use of a T-shaped connection. It's called spike technology. Grooves of vertical elements are cut out in the side walls, which are inserted into the window openings together with the insulation. Boards are provided in the upper and lower parts, which are attached with self-tapping screws to the racks of the pigtail.

Casing in a mortgage bar. The design is assembled from edged boards and timber. In the side walls, a vertical opening is made for a square-shaped bar, then it is installed in a groove. The next step is to create a box, which is attached first to the bar, then to the bottom of the frame. Fiber insulation is placed between the gaps.

U-shaped, another name - "into the deck." The easiest way to assemble a pigtail. Spikes are cut in the logs of the wall of the building, grooves are cut in the box. During installation, the elements are connected, insulation is added to the spikes. The design is fixed with self-tapping screws to the racks of the pigtail.

Net. A similar method with the technology of a mortgage bar, but here the bar is rectangular in shape. Thus, part of it goes beyond the pigtail and serves as a support for the window frame.

Do-it-yourself installation of a pigtail

Before installing the structure, you need to know what it consists of. Regardless of the materials and manufacturing techniques, the pigtail has three main parts:

• top . It is necessary to hold the side parts in a vertical position, while providing a gap for the insulation;
• threshold . The lower horizontal side of the structure. It has the same function as the top, while in the window opening it is a window sill, and in the doorway it is a threshold. Most of the load is projected onto it, so its strength is very important;
• carriages. Lateral vertical elements provide a connection with the house and the ability to adjust when shrinking.

Having understood all the design features of the casing, you can proceed to install it in the opening.

Make an opening at a distance of 80 cm from the floor. Depending on the type of connection, a groove or spike is cut out in the wall. Wooden elements are treated with protective antiseptic agents. With the help of thermal insulation close up the space between the wall and the pigtail.

Features of installing a PVC window box in a wooden house

It should be understood that the installation of casing for wooden windows is different from PVC windows. When installing plastic windows, a more complex version of the casing installation will be required.

The construction is assembled from a single log with cut grooves for the ridge. A comb is sawn into the wall for connection. The size of the ridge and groove is made so that when the house shrinks, the frame slides easily along the guides.

Important! Plastic windows in a wooden house cannot be inserted without a pigtail. It will protect the frame from excessive loads and deformation.

The installation of the pigtail begins with the fact that two guide cuts 5 x 5 cm in size are made in the wall of the window opening. The work can be done with a chainsaw or an ordinary chisel.

A bar of the same size as the guides is inserted into specially prepared grooves, with a pre-attached seal. Lnovatin should be located between the wall and the beam so that the part goes out onto the wall.

On the mortgage bar, the board is fixed flush with self-tapping screws. If the scythe is installed using the spike-monolith technology, the T-shaped part is inserted into the groove and fixed. Carriages should not fit back to back, it is necessary to leave at least 3 cm to the edge of the wall beam. Such a gap is necessary when calculating the shrinkage of the house.

The tip is laid on the vertical elements and pressed so that the groove enters the guides. The gap left is filled with insulation, from the outside it is closed with a windproof membrane.

Installation of casing of an adjacent window opening with a balcony door

If the house is supposed to have access to a balcony combined with a window, some subtleties should be taken into account when installing such a structure.

With this arrangement of the opening, it is impossible to make the casing common, they should be separated by a T-shaped sidewall. The combined side of the door will have a U-shape, which will allow the overall structure to slide parallel to each other without deforming the opening.

The gap left above the window opening should be smaller, and above the door more. After the final shrinkage, the gaps will become the same.

Installation of casing for doorways

The process of installing a door in a house from a log house or timber is carried out after the completion of construction. Installation does not occur immediately, it must take at least 6 months. During this time, the house will shrink a little.

Most often, the installation of a pigtail for a door is carried out using the groove-thorn technology. First, using a router, a 50 x 50 groove is made at the end of the opening. A bar with a section of the same size is installed in it. It is important to consider the size of the bar, if the house is newly built, then its length should be 5 cm less.

To increase the reliability of the casing, it is necessary to add a board 50 mm wide to the bar, you can use a metal channel. After the vertical bars are fixed, a threshold from the bar is attached below. When installing the casing for the door, the size of the opening is taken into account. It should be 15 cm higher so that a 150 x 50 board can be installed at the top of the pigtail.

To prevent the penetration of cold, thermal insulation of the gaps is carried out. To do this, you can use tow or mounting cotton.

Installing a door frame in a wooden house is an important undertaking. It is necessary not only to observe the technology, but also to choose the right material.

The main quality of the board for the manufacture of structures is the ability to maintain strength for a long time. The best for this purpose is a board of category "A", made of wood with high performance characteristics (oak, hornbeam, larch).

Unfortunately, this is an expensive material. To find a worthy replacement, they began to use glued beams. It has a high level of reliability and performs well as the main casing material.

For an all-massive construction, the thickness of the log should not be less than 50 mm. It is important to use high-quality insulation in the form of linen or jute.

To maintain reliability, wood must be treated with antiseptics. This will protect the structure from rotting and delamination.

How to determine the cost of a casing

When there is an opportunity to save the family budget and not lose on quality, you should take advantage of this. To do this, you need to understand what makes up the cost of the pigtail. The price is affected by:

• opening size. Accordingly, the larger it is, the more difficult the installation work and the higher the cost of acquiring the required amount of materials;
• house wall thickness. The width of the details of the pigtail and window sill, and hence its cost, depends on the size of the width of the log;
• material for making. A box made from solid wood is more durable, but also more expensive than other materials.

We can conclude that assembling and installing a pigtail with your own hands is a simple task. It is necessary to carefully select the material, focusing on the methods of further finishing the house, and also carefully consider the observance of technologies when installing the box, taking into account the design features of the house.