Cross-country ski preparation technologies. How to grease skis at home for better glide

10.07.2013

Why prepare your skis?

At the very beginning, a few words should be said, for those who are new to this field. Ski ointments are of two types: and.

Application area holding ointments for the classic move.

For a classic style, the front and back of the ski is lubricated with glide paraffins. And the center of the ski is lubricated with a holding ointment to reduce recoil. The length of the middle part (blocks) is about fifty centimeters. It is counted from the end of the heel of the boot, placed in the mount towards the toe of the ski. For beginners, it is possible to lengthen the block up to fifteen centimeters towards the toe.

In skating style, skis are lubricated along the entire length with glide paraffins. You will have to choose paraffins depending on what goals you set for yourself. If your goal is to ski on the weekends, then the cost of lubrication and time to prepare the skis will be minimal. But if you are going to compete and do it more professionally, you will have to give a lot of money and time.

The minimum preparation of skis at a more or less professional level includes: cleaning with soft wax (applying it, removing it and then brushing), applying several layers of weather wax (must be applied, allowed to cool to room temperature (about ten minutes), then scraped off , brush and polish). As a result, you will spend at least half an hour on these preparations. Another inconvenience is the smell, but it is not very strong. If you prepare skis at home, then there is a serious problem - paraffin contamination. They can ruin floors. And not only in the room where the preparation takes place, because it is possible to spread it throughout the house. Such training will be to the liking of only ardent fans of skiing. Fortunately, there are easier preparation options.

Lubricants and paraffins of slip.

There are several types of sliding lubricants. Paraffins are widely used among amateurs. Professionals, in most cases, also use additionally. These funds are not cheap, and quickly spent. Therefore, if you are not a professional athlete, then it is better not to spend money on expensive accelerators. The expiration date of paraffins is not limited, but it does not make sense to buy it in large quantities.

If there is a humid climate where you intend to ride, then you should purchase. Well, if the air humidity is below fifty percent, then ordinary paraffins will do.

In humid climates, it is good to use fluorinated gels, emulsions, sprays. All you need to do is apply them to the skis with an eplicator or spray them. Then dry, heat with a hair dryer and polish. In this case, the skis will be prepared very quickly and without problems. The main disadvantages of such funds are the considerable cost and rapid consumption.

Ski ointments holding.

Holding ointments exist in solid and liquid states. Any holding ointment must meet two criteria. First, it should allow the skier to push (when pushing off, additional pressure is created under the middle part of the ski, and thanks to the ointment, the skis seem to stick to the snow (snow crystals enter the ointment layer), which allows you to push off). After repulsion, the crystals come out of the ointment layer, which allows the skis to glide. Secondly, in the case when a person slides on one of the skis and pressure is also created under the middle part of the ski, the ointment should not slow down the movement. There are various methods of applying the ointment, such as applying several layers.

With ointment for lovers, things are much easier. There is one simple rule that works for sub-zero temperatures and inexpensive ointments: you should use an ointment whose lower limit of the temperature range is three to four degrees higher than the current temperature. If you didn’t guess with the ointment, and if the skis slow down excessively, then apply a “colder” ointment on top, if they slip too much - a warmer one. Also, to enhance braking, you can increase the length of the block towards the toe of the ski. Applying a new layer of ointment will take only a few minutes, but nothing will spoil your riding experience. Do not be afraid to experiment with ointment, in this way you can quickly find the best option for yourself.

It is enough for an amateur to have three or four jars of ointment, which would be in the range from plus three to minus fifteen degrees. If you oil your skis at home, it is recommended that you remove any remaining wax before applying a new one. To remove the old ointment, use a special one. It is best to apply the ointment in two or three thin layers, rubbing each.

Ointments in the liquid state are called. Apply it in the desired thin strip on both sides of the groove, and then level it with a plastic scraper. This procedure is difficult to do directly on the track, so it is better to prepare in advance at home.

Klister can be applied at positive temperatures. But he has one unpleasant property - he greatly stains the case. So after skiing, it is better to wrap the skis in polyethylene so as not to pollute or spoil the cover. After using the skis, the klister begins to thaw and drain. It is best to wash off the klister immediately after riding, or remove it with a scraper.

Solid ointments usually work great in sub-zero temperatures, but problems can arise under certain conditions:

• Podlip. When the temperature goes above zero, such an unpleasant phenomenon as sticking may occur. This is the adhesion of snow to the ointment. As a result, a snowball is formed under the block.
• Icing. Snow crystals, instead of leaving the composition of the ointment after a point, break in it. An ice crust appears on the surface of the ointment. Often this happens when the temperature of the ointment is a little higher than necessary.
• The condition of the snow inside and outside of the track may differ, therefore, when leaving the track, problems may arise, the skis may brake too much. This can also be observed when leaving the shade for the sun and vice versa.

Ski preparation tools.

A few words should be said about the necessary tools. After reading some articles, newcomers to skiing may have the impression that dozens of tools need to be purchased to prepare skis. For professionals, this is possible. But beginners can get by with only the most modest set. By the way, we have prepared several options for ski preparation kits in the section.

If the sliding surface of your skis is made of high molecular weight sintered plastic, then the main tool for ski preparation will be. The remaining necessary tools are a scraper and 2 types of brushes - copper (for preliminary removal of dirt and residues of old paraffin) and nylon (for polishing the structure after applying new paraffin).

New skis, whether you later hot wax them or not, are best treated with an iron. We do not recommend using an ordinary household iron, since there is a possibility of burning the plastic - an irreversible action that will greatly impair the sliding properties of the plastic. Primary treatment should be performed with plus soft paraffin, the melting point of which is about seventy degrees. It is necessary to set the temperature of the iron to a minimum, at which the paraffin will melt, and proceed to warm up the ski, smoothly running the iron from the toe to the heel of the ski. It is necessary to monitor the temperature of the iron and ensure that there is always a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski. This method of processing is suitable if you are not going to apply paraffin with an iron in the future.

The main tools used in the preparation of skis:

1. used to remove wax residue. We recommend choosing a scraper with a special rounding, so that it is convenient to remove paraffin from the grooves of the ski.
2. . Used to remove paraffin residues after scraping skis. If you plan to use hot paraffin waxing, then you definitely need such a brush.
3. . Used to prepare new skis, to remove the pile left from the grinder on the sliding surface. The cost of this tool is not great.
4. . A non-woven material that is used for the final polishing of skis. Used by professionals when applying expensive accelerators.
5. Sandpaper. It is used for sanding a ski last in a classic style in order to better hold the ointment on it in the future. Not necessary. For sanding, any fine-grained sandpaper is suitable.
6. Metal cycle. Used to remove the old structure. The fan doesn't need it. Cycling skis requires a special machine and certain skills. But it is very easy to ruin skis with this device.
7. , with which a new temperature structure is applied to the sliding surface. For amateurs is not necessary. Manufacturers apply sufficient structure.
8. . It is used for preliminary cleaning of the ski structure and for removing old paraffins.
9. . It is used to remove holding ointment and sliding paraffin. It is advisable to purchase. A very useful thing.
10. . It is used for leveling holding ointments. Plastic rubbing is best applied to ointments, and cork - to accelerator paraffins. Required tool.

Accessories.

Selection of ski waxes.

Depending on the level of training of the skier, you can in our store or collect your own:

1) Minimum. Suitable for walking through the forest on plastic skis. It is not necessary to buy paraffin and a bunch of tools. It is enough to purchase a set of holding ointments. You need to lubricate the skis under the block, rubbing with a synthetic cork so that there is no recoil. This will be enough for walking.

Compound: three or four jars of holding ointment, with a temperature range from zero to minus fifteen degrees. And one cork-grinding.

2) Sufficient. Kit for complete and intelligent ski care. With it, you can ride in any weather, and even participate in some competitions.

Compound: the minimum set plus a set of inexpensive paraffins, a ski iron, a wash, a brush, a scraper.

3) Advanced. A set that will suit a well-trained professional athlete.

Compound: a sufficient set plus a set of holding ointments with fluorine, a set of paraffins with fluorine, knurling, accelerators, sprays and emulsions.

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Winter sports professionals and some know that skis and snowboards require special preparation before using them. For high-quality sliding and holding on snow, there are a large number of different types and types of lubricants: waxes, ointments, gels and sprays, paraffins (including accelerator tablets, etc.). Their choice depends on the purpose of use, on the type of terrain, on weather conditions (temperature and humidity, snow consistency). The amount of money that you want to invest in the preparation of winter equipment and accessories also plays a significant role.

Processing of skis and snowboards can be carried out both at home with your own hands, and with the help of specialists.

Before you go to the store to buy special lubricants, you should think in advance what exactly you want to purchase as a result. If you plan to do ordinary skiing or relax in a ski resort, then preparing sports equipment will not require much effort. If you are a professional sportsman, then you will need some knowledge on how to choose products for quality care of your winter sports equipment.

Classification of lubricants and principles of their use for skiing and snowboarding

As mentioned above, lubricants are distinguished by the following parameters:

• by type of action;
• application method depending on the composition of the lubricant;
• according to the principles of application in various temperature conditions;
• by destination for a certain material (wood, plastic) of winter equipment.

Action type: sliding and clutch lubrication (holding)

According to the type of action of lubricants, they are distinguished: means for sliding and for grip (holding).

For better glide of the ski surface, glide lubricant is used. It would be useful to note that skis for classics should be properly smeared, distributing lubricant over the surface of two sections of the ski material, the heel and toe, and for skating, it must be smeared, capturing the entire area of ​​​​the ski surface.

The main function of clutch or holding lubrication is to minimize kickback during a classic run. In this case, the ski wax is correctly applied in such a way that, as a result of the distribution of the substance, the lubricant is located in the center (block) of the ski surface. With the help of this interaction between the holding device and the skis, a successful push can be made, as a result of which a certain pressure will appear in the central area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe skis. Often it is used, remarkably providing the safety of rental skiers of the initial level of training. Such lubricant tenaciously binds the surface of skis and snow.

Methods for applying lubricants depending on their composition and temperature conditions

Slip and clutch lubricants also differ in their composition, which also affects the way they are applied to sports equipment.

Different types of slip/adhesion means different compositions and types of paraffin (wax) with microcrystals:

• Solid lubricants.

Solid lubricants (wax, paraffin) for sliding are applied by melting with an iron (special or general use). The troublesomeness of this process often refers to the disadvantages of such ointments, but over time it is just a matter of habit.

Such a lubricant (paraffin) should lie on the previously cleaned surface of the skis or snowboard from the previous layer of paraffin. Usually cleaning is carried out with the help of special washer and a dry cloth. Then, gradually increasing the degrees of the included iron, we bring and press the paraffin to its sole in anticipation of melting. Flowing drops of such wax merge onto the surface of the necessary sports equipment, whether it is a snowboard or skis. Then we run the iron over the surface of the sports equipment, evenly distributing drops of lubricant, and let it cool. Next, you should remove excess paraffin by scraping, using a cycle. Finally, we polish the surface of the coating with a thick cloth. More detailed application instructions are included with each package of wax wax purchased.

Solid adhesive ointment is packaged in jars or bales and is usually applied in an easier way. Having opened any container with a similar lubricant coating, we turn it over and apply it (with a jar or briquette) by rubbing it on the surface of winter sports equipment (ski block or snowboard board). Then we rub the grease again with a special rubbing plug to a uniform smooth layer.

• Lubricants in liquid form.

Liquid lubricants for grip and sliding come in tubes (klisters with universal ski wax) and in jars (with an applicator and solvent, “lazy” quick waxes). They are applied to the surface and rubbed with a special scraper-spatula or cork-grinding. The peculiarity of such lubricants is that the air temperature should be strictly taken into account when applying them. Each gradation of the temperature regime corresponds to its own color of the lubricant package.

1. 0 ... -2 (purple ski wax);
2. -2 ... -8 (blue ski wax);
3. -5 ... -12 (light green ski wax);
4. -10 ... -25 (dark green ski wax);
5. -15 ... -30 (black ski wax).

Liquid lubricants can be cross-applied by mixing the two substances. In this case, they alternate with each other (applying a drop of one type, after 2 cm a drop of another, etc.), then rub the sliding surface of the ski or snowboard to a uniform shiny layer.

During the off-season, professional athletes are advised to carry several types of lubricant with them, for different temperature schedules and in case of unpredictable changes in weather and snow consistency.

As in the case of solid lubricants, before applying liquid products, the ski or board must also be pre-cleaned of the old layer of paraffin and only then proceed to applying a new one.

If you are worried about the variety of colors and the number of jars (or klisters), you will be pleased with the universal ("lazy") liquid cross-country ski lubricants, as they are excellent at both +3 and -5 (for example, universal ski lubricant from manufacturer Swix).

• Sprays.

They are usually used as a kind of accelerator. They differ from other lubricants by their high cost and their composition (fluorine-containing aerosol), as well as by a simple method of application (they do not need a scraper), which is why they got their name - “quick application ointments”. Great choice for cross country skiing.

• Pastes, emulsions, gels, etc.

Pastes are also expensive. Created on the basis of the latest technology and also belong to the quick application ointments. Snowboarding enthusiasts and professional ski racers brought them wide popularity. An unpretentious alternative to waxy solid lubricants. This also includes other types of lubricants, such as emulsions or gels.

Wood or plastic - the differences and features of caring for winter sports equipment

As for plastic sports products for skating, care and treatment with lubricants will require financial investments, time and a little skill, which was indicated in more detail in the previous description of the types of lubricant classifications. Therefore, we will focus on the second point of the material for making skis or snowboard boards - “wood”.

With all the modern variety of sports equipment for winter walks, wooden skis and boards are still "in price". And although "plastic" has a number of its advantages, "wood" deserves no less attention than products made from more modern materials.

If we talk about caring for such equipment, then it should be clarified that for wooden skis or a board, a good-quality and inexpensive domestic grease for grip (holding) is quite enough.

Of course, the days of “rosinized” skis are over and modern wooden skis often have a plastic sliding surface, which means that there are no significant differences in care. But it is worth remembering that if you have an old-style wooden coating, then before applying the lubricant, you should first tar the surface.

Also consider the location of the wooden ski block, as a rule, it is the “deflection” of the middle part of the ski. On the surface of this median area, professional athletes apply an ointment for a warmer temperature regime, while the rest of the surface is treated with a lower temperature ointment.

Such a coating for wooden skis is enough for an average of 10–15 km. If your distance is longer, you should take care of the availability of lubricant on the road in advance.

Features of impurities of paraffin lubricants

Among a large number of impurities and elements of wax lubricants, the most famous are lubricants that contain hydrocarbon elements or the presence of fluorine.

Waxes with hydrocarbon

Hydrocarbon waxes are the most common. They have excellent water repellency and are fairly easy to use (hot and dry method).

Among this type of lubricants there are universal and temperature-oriented lubricants.

The universal type of such wax is an inexpensive and familiar option for any category of winter sports enthusiasts. These lubricants are great for long walks, but are completely unsuitable for riding during competitions.

Hydrocarbon lubricants have excellent water repellency

They have these advantages:

• easy glide due to excellent water repellency;
• dirt protection.

You should not forget about the minus - such a coating is quickly erased from the surface of the equipment, and therefore, it must be often re-applied.

As for temperature-oriented waxes, they are used by professionals in certain temperature situations. Such a lubricant contains special substances that work at specific temperatures and give good glide.

There is the following classification of such substances:

• cold. It is necessary to smear at a snow temperature of -12 and below;
• medium. It is necessary to smear at a temperature of -12 to -3;
• warm. It is necessary to smear at a temperature of -2 and above.

Fluorocarbon Waxes

Fluorocarbon waxes have excellent water repellency, which gives the best glide on snow.

There are several types of such waxes:

• low-fluorine - use when the snow moisture level is less than 60%;
• medium fluoride - from 60 to 80%;
• high-fluorine - more than 80%.

Fluorocarbon substances are more expensive than waxes, which have a main part of paraffin in their composition. Such a lubricant is considered a better choice, it should be smeared less often and it is quite easy to spread evenly over the surface of the equipment.

Removing wax from skis or snowboards

Wax renewal is required when your winter ski equipment starts to slip unsatisfactorily. In this case, you need to free it from the old layer of paraffin.

Install the ski or board in a special mounting machine. Move the scraper from toe to heel. Use a stiff brush to clean off the residue. You can also use a special solvent to remove old grease.

You can apply a hot method that is able to clean all layers of grease, as well as dirt. Take an iron, apply paraffin and immediately remove the resulting mass with a scraper.

Purchasing lubricants for skiing and snowboarding

Ski wax, which is equally used for snowboarding, is sold in sports stores. The price of your choice will depend on the composition, volume and manufacturer. Accordingly, the cost varies in the range from 100 to 7000 rubles. Remember that it is better to use lubricants than to do without them. You can also take base paraffin for skis. Such a lubricant is quite suitable if your funds are limited and your goals are low. In any case, in the vastness of modern marketing, there is a huge variety from our and foreign manufacturers of lubricants for skiing (Visti, Luch, Star, Swix, Rex, etc.)

Let's draw your attention to several Holmenkol products. This brand offers a universal spray lubricant for skis and snowboards Wax Spray Ski & Board. Such a lubricant does not even need to be smeared, it is enough to spray, let it dry and polish. Also available is Wax Paste XXL Ski & Board universal ointment-paste. It gives good glide, long-term use, good economy and convenient operation. Such products make it easy to care for your products and apply a lubricating coating without much diligence at home with your own hands.

We hope our article helped you decide how to choose the right lubricant for your winter sports equipment. Recall that in the absence of a specialist, it is permissible to lubricate skis and snowboards at home with your own hands, but if you decide to conquer winter sports and claim high places on the sports podium, then it is better to leave the process of careful maintenance and care of equipment to specialists.

Before starting an overview of the methods of preparing skis and applying holding ointments, it is necessary to get an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhich can partially save the skier from the procedure for applying ointments.

So, should you buy notched skis? It is impossible to give a completely unambiguous answer to this question. Most non-professional skiers use just such skis. And it’s understandable why, because with such skis you don’t need to spend time lubricating and preparing them. Notched skis can be used at any time. Such skis have a huge drawback - they hold well on soft snow, but they will not be as effective on hard snow, and such skis cannot be smeared. Also, any notch, even of the highest quality, worsens the sliding and rolling of the ski.
Skis without a notch have to be constantly prepared, but they provide quite comfortable skiing in all weather conditions.

It is not necessary for the skilful skier to remove special waxes depending on the temperature and type of snow, but this will become the main wax downhill. In the jungle, this is especially noticeable on more modest blue slopes or so-called clutches, where modified skis will move faster than average.

David Bakesh recommends three basic ways to ski or snowboard, and their appeal is the same, by the way. We apply cold wax on skis by passing the wax cube with longer strokes on the bottom and spreading the wax from the spike to the cork. The entire operation can take up to 15 minutes. Such a shelter is even the cheapest.

Ski lubrication kit.

The minimum ski preparation kit usually consists of two to three cans of ointment, cork rub and a scraper. For classic skiing, you need to smear the skis under the block with holding ointment. A block is a part of a ski that starts at the heel of the boot and stretches towards the toe of the ski by 15-20 centimeters. The block is lubricated with holding ointments so that when pushing with the foot, the skis do not slide back.

First, we build skis with shared potatoes. Put it on the fire in paraffin, spread it over the base with iron in a uniform layer, let it cool and cool. Remove the wax from the plastic scraper, rub the rest of the wax with wax wax, and then finish the plastic wax. It lasts longer, say 30 to 45 minutes, and it's also incredibly expensive, because we need not only paraffin, but iron, scrub, and at least one kart.

Pocket sprays and liquid waxes

However, maintaining the base in this way is absolutely efficient and has the greatest effect. The easiest and fastest way to do this is to use various sprays or liquid waxes that you can put in your pocket or small bat and remove them right on the slopes.

For beginners, it is quite suitable, which often consists of four briquettes or jars of foil or plastic. In addition to ointments, you will need a synthetic rubbing cork. Having smeared the middle part of the ski with ointment, it must be rubbed. After that, you should get an even, shiny layer. If you can't make an even layer, don't bother with it for a long time. It is enough just to smooth the ointment with a rub.

First you need to dry the basement, then apply the wax according to the wax and let it dry for a while. This treatment will last for the shortest time, but it can be repeated more often. Good luck and let go. Fault 1: Artificial skating skis don't need lubrication.

It's been a long time since the skis had a wooden base that roared or painted over. At that time, it is impossible to ski without treatment. The introduction of polyethylene slides has been a huge success for improving ski grip and wax adhesion.

Synthetic cork-grinding for ointments.

When you go skiing, it is advisable to take with you a “warmer” and “colder” ointment compared to the one you put on your skis.

From these cylindrical blocks, the polyethylene foil is cut while rotating with a knife. A waxy, untreated skid changes irreversibly chemically after 14 days of skiing, has an order of magnitude worse gliding properties, and recovery is only possible by radical grinding. With a base depth of 1.2 mm, we can make the draft color twice as large.

Fault 2: Skis are waxed enough at the factory. The skis are equipped with a so-called transport wax to prevent oxidation of the base during storage. It is a hard wax that polishes well and gives an excellent surface finish. For skiing, this wax is absolutely inappropriate, for a maximum of one day of skiing. Filling is done with multiple flashes or with thermal boxes. The cost of the soap is 390 CZK and the treated skis are protected for approximately 500 km of skiing or less skiing in season.

An easy way to apply ski wax.

The far left picture shows sandpapering the surface - this should be done infrequently.

Cases of "missing the right ointment":

1)Skis do not hold. This problem can be eliminated by applying a warmer ointment to the block. After application, you need to grind it with a cork-grinding. You will spend only a few minutes on this procedure, and you will be able to continue comfortable riding.

The filling is also suitable for storage after the end of the season. Complicated and time-consuming and financially demanding lubricant for racing skis. If we only ski for joy, we have slightly lower requirements. We just want the skis to glide, not crawl, and they don't slide down the ski run. Cross-country skiing trails will be used by skiers, and skis well lubricated for recreational skiers will not work. Competitors lose ski service, the skier-skier usually wipes the skis himself.

That's why ski wax manufacturers try to make specialty waxes for recreational skiers that are usually easy to apply without getting cold and are time consuming to apply. For further descriptions, it is necessary to distinguish between waxes for sliding and reflection.

2)Skis slow down. Skis may not run well, or they may become covered with snow or ice under the block due to the fact that the ointment was applied too warm for this weather. The accumulation of snow under the block is called "stick", ice - icing. It will take a little more time to solve this problem. To begin with, ice or snow must be torn off with a scraper or improvised means. After that, rub the block with a glove, removing the remnants of snow and moisture. Then grind with a cork, drying the ointment. You need to rub more intensively than you rubbed the ointment in the room. When the ointment has dried and warmed up enough, it is time to apply a colder ointment. This simple trick usually fixes the problem.

Extendable waxes This group includes universal pastes and pasty gliders or even sprays. The longest endurance is ski oils, which can last up to 50 km for skiing. Ski oils are a little more expensive than other wax waxes, but they provide unrivaled endurance both on the slopes of the slopes and cross-country skiing and cross-country skiing. The temperature tolerance is also excellent and almost impossible to lubricate.

Reflex waxes To reflect and skid skis, it is necessary to choose the correct length and stiffness of the ski, that is, the correct length of the lubrication zone. When smearing with reflex wax outside the reflection zone of the ski scrub, too short, the lubrication zone is insufficient for reflection.

How to smear skis at -5 degrees?

Let's say that it's -5 degrees outside, and your set of ointments is five briquettes (according to the number of temperature ranges). The most correct solution would be to apply a blue ointment (-2 -8). But do not forget that when you go skiing, you need to take two more ointments with you. If the weather changes, you can adjust the lubrication of the skis for comfortable skiing. Returning from a walk, you should remove the old ointment with a scraper (or improvised materials). After that, a new ointment can be applied to the remnants of the old ointment. If you want to clean your skis well, you can wash off the old wax with gasoline using a piece of cotton wool. If funds allow, you can buy.

If you are only putting weight on one of the skis, the lubrication area should touch the pad. We only rub the reflective wax into the rebound area. They are both rigid as a roller and as a liquid in pipes. We usually have two or three kings. Reclaimed waxes are for fresh snow and will last for three. We clean our hands with oily cream. Mistake #4 - The more expensive the wax, the better.

Waxes containing fluorocarbon compounds are currently not indistinguishable from racing grease. At high relative humidity, they provide significantly better slip properties than conventional paraffins. Fluorine waxes are produced with various concentrations of fluorocarbons up to 100%. However, medium and high fluorinating waxes are completely unsuitable for skiing. Once the skis are finished, the fluorocarbons must be removed from the base, as their long-term contact with the skid is destroyed.

Set of liquid ointments.

In the case when there is still a lot of snow, but the air temperature is above zero, it is best to use universal ones. However, to remove them you will need (or gasoline, kerosene). With liquid ointments, you will have to tinker a little longer, but then you can ensure yourself comfortable skiing on the spring track.

Capping of fluorocarbon waxes is possible, but endurance at the base is 1-3 km. All these facts mean that waxes with a higher concentration of fluorocarbons are generally not suitable for skiing. The one who wipes, runs or how to properly lubricate the ground.

Before the ski season ends, it is necessary to check the skis and snowboards, if we have oiled them well, as they say. We will only get correct driving behavior if the base is smooth and does not have deep grooves. But do you know how to get the most out of your winter gear?

Applying a klister to cross-country skis.

Two tubes of ointment will be enough for you - for positive temperature and for zero and a slight minus.

The klister should be applied indoors. It is necessary to squeeze it out with greasy drops onto the ski block, and then rub them with a scraper.

A properly lubricated blade ensures that you are the master of your skis on the slope, not that they control you. Many people think that it is necessary to lubricate the base only if the skis are somehow scrubbing and not moving quickly. Yes, skis without snow fall faster, but they are also much more manageable, which is very important from a safety point of view.

Base adjustment should not only be an issue for racers, but also for regular skiers and snowboarders. Regular lubrication prolongs service life and ensures greater driving pleasure. Many of their poorly lubricated skates advocate a slower ride, making them safer. Skis in this case, however, are actually slower, but sometimes also scratch, so it gets worse and closes the arc. As a result, the trip is much more dangerous than if you were skiing on legs that behave as they should.

You need to mess with such ointments a little more because the consistency of klisters is close to the consistency of condensed milk, which means that they easily stain clothes and hands. Therefore, after skiing, you must immediately clean the skis from the ointment with a scraper and a wash. You can also put your skis in a bag after skiing and clean them at home. The need to clean skis after skiing is perhaps the only inconvenience in using liquid ointments.

So, if we take care of the base, we will help improve driving technique. Of course, we also benefit from skiing or snowboarding itself. The slide tends to dry out, losing the properties it should have. Therefore, it is extremely important to have a wax cellar and an off-season. In addition to the lubricating base, we must not forget even sharpened edges.

While not obvious to the naked eye, the base is very porous. It is not a flat surface, but a porous and slit surface. To lubricate, we actually fill these microscopic spaces with wax. After lubricating the wax on the base should not be visible, everything should be hidden inside the base. There are many techniques and lubrication technologies, as well as a number of waxes with different fluorine content. In addition to waxes, various lubricating powders are also available, silicone, copper and leather brushes, polishing machines, various scrapers and scrubs can also be used to improve the base.

Express ointments.

The so-called or ointments in aerosol cans have now begun to gain great popularity. It has become much easier to apply such ointments. The fact is that it is enough to simply spray such an ointment on the indicated area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe sliding surface of the ski and after 5 minutes you can get on the track. Such an express ointment may not be rubbed with a cork - the ointment should be applied in an even layer over the entire area and is almost immediately ready for use. But during initial use, you need to roughen the ski under the shoe with fine sandpaper - so the ointment will better lie on the surface.

In short, tools and chemicals used to lubricate skis or snowboards are entering the market. If you are not a racing or professional skier, you need to know how to do lubrication, which you can handle at home and with the most basic equipment. Regular skiing. Basically, there are about five different colors of ski waxes.

These values ​​for specific waxes are only indicative, as each manufacturer uses a slightly different temperature range. For example, several types of blue waxes can also be found. Many waxes also do not report air temperature, but use snow temperature or air temperature measured 1 cm above the snowpack. However, this division into five colors should give you at least a basic picture of the types of waxes. If you want to increase the resistance of the wax layer on the base, wax of different colors can be wiped off in several layers.

Economy kits.

Many manufacturers produce economy bags for ski lubrication. They include two or three cans of solid ointment and a rubbing plug. Sometimes a few tubes of liquid ointment and a scraper are added to this kit. It happens that these sets are completed in a convenient waist bag. There are kits that include all of the above plus a spray bottle. This is a very good option, since such a set has everything you need, and nothing more.
Paraffins.

Preseason Specialists

Before the start of the winter season, we must prepare the base for snow. Either we can do it ourselves, or take the transfer to the service of a specialist. The first lubrication before winter is always better to give to experts who perfectly prepare skis or snowboards. When servicing, they use special machines that not only clean and lubricate the base, but also level and smooth the edges if necessary. For this remedy, you will set from 200 to 500 crowns depending on how damaged the base is.

When you go to the mountains, you must properly oil the slopes every day before and after skiing. The base should never be bleached and scarred, but still beautifully black and waxed. Many skiers, however, wear their skis once a week, before skiing and then after they finish their stay in the mountains. It all depends on the number of kilometers driven, and the terrain on which we move is also important. If you are very careful and take care every day, avoid using chemical slip cleaners.

Economic skier's set. (ointments for different temperatures, scraper and cork)

It is not necessary to smear walking skis with paraffins. The plastic surface glides well in any weather. For walks, this slip will be enough for you. The surface of the ski above and below the block does not need to be treated with anything. But if you are going to participate in competitions, then firstly you need more expensive skis and secondly, you will certainly have to be more thorough, and for this you need to purchase a whole set of additional equipment.

You got to the page of questions and answers following the results of the article. It so happened that after reading this article, our readers began to ask me a variety of questions not only about lubrication, but also about skis, ski poles. I try to answer all these questions within my competence. In search of an answer, sometimes I call the best experts in the country in their field, and they help me give you the right answer. If you still have questions after reading this article and all the answers, please email me. mail. enI will definitely answer them.

Ivan Isaev,

Master of Sports of the USSR in cross-country skiing

And now, actually, the letter of our reader.

Good afternoon! My name is Dmitry. I recently purchased skis (plastic) SALOMON Equipe 7 Skate (without notches). I bought it a year ago (almost in the summer) at a discount for 4,000 rubles. This is the city of Penza, the Sportclass store. I skate... I study:) . And I began to search the Internet for information about lubrication. I came across your article, but did not find the answer to the question - to smear or not to smear them. I don't ride very much. I try both classical and skating. Tell me, please, is it still worth processing them with something, or can I ride on "naked" plastic?

Sincerely, Dmitry B.

I had an embarrassment with this letter: I saved it on my computer, hoping to answer in a couple of days, but I got distracted by something and remembered about it only after three months. Therefore, before answering, he turned to Dmitry with the question: is his letter still relevant? Here is what he answered me:

- The question is still relevant. During this time I have purchased paraffin SWIX LF7 (-2\-8). I tried to rub the skis with paraffin, and then warm the prof. hair dryer and rub with a cork. Then sanded with felt. There seems to be an effect, but I'm not entirely sure that I'm doing everything right. If you can, please advise how and with what (which layer of paraffin to smear, I heat it with a hairdryer - will I damage the plastic on the skis, how to apply it correctly)?

Sincerely, Dmitry B.

Dmitry, in order to answer you, I contacted Artyom Onishchenko, an employee of Amer-sport. Artyom, however, is responsible for the Atomic brand in this company. But since Artyom is a person, and the Atomic and Salomon skis are made in the same factory and sold by the same distributors, he told me something about your skis.

So, first of all, I want to congratulate you on a good purchase - you bought a very decent entry-level sport ski with a good (high molecular weight) plastic base of a very reputable brand. Moreover, you bought these skis frankly cheap, their real retail price is in the range of 5.500 - 6.500 rubles. Apparently, this is due to the fact that you bought them at a "sale" price in the summer.

In addition, you need to keep in mind that you bought not even the lowest model of the Salomon sports ski line - the first model in the line of sports skis of this brand is SALOMON Equipe 6 Skate. That is, you bought a slightly more expensive, slightly more advanced model. A good choice.

Now about whether to smear them or not to smear them and how to smear them. In principle, these skis are already well prepared in order to safely ride them for your own pleasure. In this case, of course, you always have the opportunity to use "lazy" slip ointments, or, in other words, quick application slip ointments (see my answer to question No. 4). In my opinion, these preparations should be enough for your eyes for any length of unhurried walks on any tracks.

Another thing is that you start asking specific questions. For example, about paraffin SWIX LF7 (-2\-8), which you heat with a professional hair dryer, rub with felt, etc. Here's the thing: I originally wrote this article, addressing it to beginner skiers who have the most minimal, and sometimes zero experience in this area. With your question, you are taking us a little higher, to the “semi-professional” level of ski preparation. To be honest, I did not plan to touch on this area specifically in this article.

And yet, since the question is asked ...

Look, you've bought a simple, low-fluorine wax designed for a specific temperature range: - 2 - 8 degrees. In principle, you will close a fairly large temperature range with them. You can smear the ski with it and then warm it up with a professional hair dryer, but be very careful - it is easy to set fire to the plastic of the sliding surface with a professional hair dryer. Usually, those who want to prepare skis for skiing with paraffins buy a special ski iron, with which you can set a specific temperature of the soleplate of the iron, sufficient to melt specific paraffins (usually frosty, harder, paraffins require a higher temperature of the iron, and warm, vice versa - lower temperature).

However, in order to remove paraffin from the ski (and it is necessary to remove it, but more on that later), you need at least minimal tools: a machine or a set of stops, a scraper, a brush, a fiberlen. I repeat once again - all these devices and manipulations take us away from the entry level into the "semi-professional" sphere.

But since you bought paraffin, and since you already have a professional hair dryer, and since you want to improve the sliding properties of your skis, I advise you to buy another scraper and brush with hard polyethylene bristles or even bronze or steel bristles. Again, there are disputes among skiers: what is better - hard polyethylene bristles, or even harder - bronze or steel (you see - you still take us to too high spheres)? Well, buy with polyethylene bristles - this option looks the most obvious and harmless.

After you have melted the paraffin with a hair dryer and let it cool, you must remove the paraffin with a scraper, and then clean the sliding surface with a brush, making a few final movements with fiberlen at the very end. In principle, a nylon female stocking is quite suitable as fiberlen, which will be wrapped around a cork-rubbing, or a napkin made of non-woven material. If there is neither a stocking nor a napkin, then you can do without them.

Now about the option that you talked about - to remove the paraffin with felt. Keep in mind - this method of preparing skis is categorically not suitable. You, most likely, filled your felt with paraffin in the first few movements, but you never cleared the skis of it.

Of course, I am not an artist, but I sketched out for you a very exaggerated, as if enlarged diagram of how a ski prepared incorrectly looks like (this is your option, drawing No. 1). I emphasize again: this scheme is greatly exaggerated, in reality the sliding surface of the ski looks smooth (well, or almost smooth). That is, you, in fact, do not slide on plastic, but on a monolithic layer of paraffin, and this option leads to the exact opposite effect - such skis will never go.

If you scrape off paraffin from the sliding surface of the ski with a scraper (Figure No. 2), then you will be able to remove its excess, and you will get to the “tops” of the plastic microrelief. Meanwhile, the "hollows" between these "tops" will still be densely filled with paraffin, and this option will not be very different from the first option - such skis will also glide unimportantly.

Finally, if after the scraper you made 2-3-4 dozen energetic movements with a brush and to a large extent (but not completely!) Scraped the paraffin from all the “hollows” (Figure No. 3), then this will be the correct option for preparing skis with using paraffin.

I must admit: skis that regularly see paraffin, a scraper and a brush, definitely go faster than those skis that have never seen these tools, that is, in principle, you are on the right track. Another thing is that you need to answer the question for yourself: do you really lack speed and gliding for walking through the forest? Do you really need to buy paraffin-iron-scraper-brush-machine(or a set of stops)? If yes, if you are still confident, then go ahead, everything is in your hands, and your skis will definitely glide better.

SKI PREPARATION

1. Factors affecting the choice of ointment.

Temperature.

Before you start preparing skis for a race or just a walk, you need to take into account a number of factors - air temperature (snow), air humidity (snow), type of snow (granularity).

Air temperature (snow)

Today you can find out the air temperature in a particular area without leaving your home, just open one or another weather widget. It is much more difficult with the snow temperature, it must be measured directly on the track.

Usually, the air temperature is indicated on the packages of paraffin (ointments). The temperature of the snow can also be helpful. But remember that when the temperature of the snow has reached the freezing point (0 C), then it will not grow further, regardless of the increase in air temperature. In this case, it is better to use the air temperature and pay attention to the water content of the snow.

Humidity.

Humidity is more important as a local climate trend and does not need to be accurately measured. It is important to know if you are riding in a dry climate zone with an average humidity of 50%; in a normal climate zone with a humidity of 50% - 80% or in a humid climate from 80% to 100%.

Snow grain.

For the correct choice of ointment, the type of snow crystals and the type of resulting surface are also important. Falling or very fresh fresh snow is the most difficult situation for lubrication. Sharp crystals require an ointment that does not allow the penetration of snow crystals, but at higher temperatures it must also be water-repellent. Freshly poured snow at low temperatures especially requires synthetic paraffin additives. When the air temperature rises above 0 C, the temperature of the snow remains 0 C. The amount of water surrounding the snow crystals increases until the snow becomes saturated with water. In this case, strongly water-repellent ointments and a deep structural pattern of the sliding surface are required.

2. Ski preparation tool

Tables and machines

First of all, for the lubrication and processing of skis, we need a table of convenient height, equipped with the necessary devices for work (electric sockets, additional lighting, etc.). Tables can be both self-made and produced by some firms (for example, “SWIX”), stationary or portable, with a wide variety of designs and their modifications.

Machine - a device on which you can strengthen the ski so that it has support along its entire length. Machines can be, just like tables, homemade or “branded”. By design, they can be very different (one-piece, collapsible, with variable length, etc.). Usually they are attached to the table with clamps or have independent “legs”. The last option is designed to work in the "field" conditions.

Thermal devices

The main purpose of thermal devices is the heating of paraffins and ointments. Commonly used electric irons, heated irons, gas burners, hair dryers. Preference is given to appliances that do not use open flames and that can maintain a constant, controlled temperature for a long time. Of all the existing thermal devices, the most used are:

electric irons - for melting paraffins and powders.

hair dryers - to melt the holding ointment applied under the ski block. If you use an iron for this purpose, you will only achieve that the ointment will “scatter” into the groove and onto the sides of the ski. Hair dryers, unlike irons, are much more suitable for melting the ointment, since they allow you to heat it evenly.

gas burners - usually used in "field" conditions, where there is no access to the mains.

Cycles, scrapers

Metal scrapers - serve to level sliding surfaces and remove lint (the hardness of the steel from which the scraper is made and its thickness depend on how large a layer of plastic you need to remove).

Metal cycles are produced by various companies (“TOKO”, “SWIX”, etc.) or made to order from special grades of steel.

Soft metal makes it possible to sharpen cycles in normal, “field” conditions using special sharpening. Hard metal involves sharpening cycles only in the factory.

SCRAPERS FROM PLEXI, PLASTIC processing of the sliding surface after application of paraffins. Available in 3.4 and 5 mm thickness. Thicker scrapers are designed to remove colder and therefore harder wax.

RAZORS are used to remove lint after mechanical and manual grinding (sanding) of skis.

SCRAPER FOR CLEANING THE GUTTER are available in various varieties. Now scrapers are becoming more common, their shape resembling fountain pens.

brushes

Brushes are designed for the final finishing of the sliding surface of the skis. There are two types: conventional (for manual processing) and rotary (for mechanized processing using power tools).

For manual processing, brushes of several varieties are used:

metal (brass, bronze, steel)

nylon (hard, medium, soft)

natural (usually from horsehair)

combined (brass-nylon, bronze-nylon, brass-natural, natural-nylon)

polishing (in the form of natural cork or block with flannel).

For mechanized processing (in this case, electric or cordless drills are used as a drive), rotary brushes are used. They are placed on a special axis, one side of which serves as a handle for holding, and the other is attached to the drill chuck.

Rotary brushes are similar in terms of the “bristle” materials used to the manual brushes listed above.

METAL BRUSHES

(except steel) are mainly used to clean the sliding surface and microstructure from old paraffin and dirt.

STEEL BRUSHES

usually used not so much to remove paraffin, but to apply a fine microstructure to the sliding surface (depending on weather conditions).

NYLON BRUSHES

are hard, medium and soft. Hard wax is used to remove harder (frosty) paraffin, medium wax is used to remove soft wax (intended for transitional and warm weather). Soft brushes are used for final polishing of sliding surfaces.

NATURAL BRUSHES

are used to remove soft wax and to treat surfaces after powders and accelerators have been applied to them.

POLISHING BRUSHES

are used for dry (without the use of an iron) method of applying compressed and conventional (loose) powders.

TIP: It will be better if you use one specific brush for each type of powder. In other words, it is not necessary to process positive and frosty powder with the same brush.

Fibrous porous fabric (fibertex)

Fibertex is a non-woven nylon fiber with or without abrasive microparticles.

RIGID FIBERTEX WITH ABRASIVE

used to remove pile after scraping the sliding surface.

SOFT FIBERTEX WITH ABRASIVE

To remove the upper very thin layer of the surface (in fact, a kind of smoothing) without changing the structure of the ski.

FIBERTEX WITHOUT ABRASIVE

serves for polishing sliding surfaces.

3. Paraffins and holding ointments

Paraffins

Paraffins are the basis for the care of the sliding surface. For most leading manufacturers, the line of paraffins has two or three varieties of ointment for different snow temperatures. In addition, waxes can vary in the content of fluorine and other additives. Paraffins with a high fluorine content are more expensive, they are more "slippery", but at the same time they are quickly wiped off the sliding surface. Additionally, all-weather ground paraffins are produced - not very slippery, but cheap, they are mainly used to prepare skis for long-term storage and transportation. It is customary to make paraffins for different snow temperatures in different colors. Commonly used colors are yellow for "warmer" snow, red for colder snow, and blue for the "coldest" of paraffins. Ground paraffin is usually white, like regular medical wax. The application of paraffin is a separate topic, and will be discussed below.

Pastes and aerosols

Fluoride pastes and aerosols are generally "all-weather". The manufacturer claims that they glide well on snow of any temperature and humidity. Unfortunately, this is not always the case. Snow is a complex structure. There are such combinations of its temperature and crystal size, when no ointments help. But in most cases, applying fluoride paste to a ski that is not “slippery” enough to some extent helps to correct the situation. However, there are several limitations when using pastes. Firstly, to apply the paste, the sliding surface of the ski must be pre-paraffinized, otherwise the paste will be instantly erased. And secondly, the paste is quickly wiped off even from a waxed sliding surface. But since the paste is a cold application, it can be updated without any problems right on the slope. As a rule, a tube of paste is equipped with a sponge. Evenly distributing the ointment on the sliding surface of the ski, you need to wait for it to dry (usually a few minutes, the exact time is indicated by the manufacturer on the package), and then polish the surface.

Accelerators

Despite the fact that the name of this category of means of preparing a sliding surface is extremely "unscientific", accelerators are a rather interesting thing, although useless for the average user. These very "slippery" things are available in the form of solid briquettes (tablets) and in the form of powders. Accelerators usually contain fluorine compounds and graphite, which has an antistatic effect. Why are they useless for the average skier? The fact is that you can feel the presence of the accelerator only on a well-prepared track, while filigree owning the technique, minimizing extraneous slipping and braking. In addition, accelerators wipe off very quickly - they are often applied right before the start, on pre-prepared skis. The sliding surface (necessarily treated with high-fluorine paraffin) is evenly rubbed with an accelerator briquette, then vigorously polished with a special bar resembling a cork. The powder accelerator is evenly sprinkled on the sliding surface of the ski, then cauterized with an iron, and then polished.

Cleaning the sliding surface.

Cleaning can be done in two ways - using a special liquid wash or using ground (low fluoride) paraffin. With a wash, everything is simple - you need to soak a non-woven rag with liquid, and then wipe the sliding surface thoroughly with it. Hot cleaning is a little trickier. Paraffin is applied to the ski, and when it cools, it is scraped off with a plastic scraper. You will see that the wax being scraped off is saturated with dirt. After scraping, carefully work the sliding surface with a nylon or bronze brush. Repeat if necessary. And then, to heighten the effect, you can wipe the ski with a wash. Do not use solvents to remove dirt from the sliding surface, as they dry it out.

4. The process of preparing skis (classic and skate)

The need for ski lubrication is determined in an obvious way. If they do not glide well, snow sticks to the sliding surface, and when moving it seems that someone is stepping on your skis from behind, then it's time to think about lubrication.

Let's start with the fact that according to the "rules" of skiing, it is necessary to prepare for each exit to the ski track, although this is not necessary. But if yesterday your skis glided well, and today the temperature and humidity of the air (and, accordingly, snow) have changed - this is a sure sign that it is worth remembering what the skis were smeared with yesterday and making adjustments. If the weather is more or less even, the snow is good, and you are a lazy person, then after treating the skis with good paraffin, you can safely ride 15-20 km, usually the paraffin stays on the sliding surface of the skis for so long.

Sometimes the sliding surface of the ski looks like it is “dried up”, covered with some kind of white “coating”. In fact, these are microvilli sticking out of the sliding surface of the skis, torn apart by snow crystals. Such a “plaque” is an excellent reason to paraffin the skis, but try not to allow it to appear, as during oxidation the sliding surface loses precious fluorine, graphite and other impurities contained in it. In addition to abrasion, the sliding surface with paraffin applied to it is subject to another unpleasant phenomenon - it perfectly absorbs various dirt, which is clearly visible when the sliding surface is initially white and then starts to turn gray (at present, skis with a white sliding surface are practically not released, as it was already noticed earlier, the composition of the sliding surface includes such components as fluorine and graphite, which give it a dark color). The fact is that the polyethylene from which the sliding surface is made is a porous material. These pores absorb wax, especially when applied hot, and help it stay in place longer. But the dirt gets into these pores. Therefore, before applying fresh paraffin, the sliding surface should be cleaned by removing the old contaminated paraffin. In addition, the so-called structure - microscopic grooves - can be applied to the prepared sliding surface. When preparing cross-country skis, the structure can be applied with special knurling at home, moreover, the step and depth of its grooves is determined by the state of the snow, namely, by the size of its crystals.

And now in more detail.

4.1.Preparation of classic skis

Clean up the holding area.

To clean classic skis from old ointment, both the “hot” method and the “cold” method can be used. In the first case:

1. We close the ski area covered with ointment, toilet paper or napkins.

2. Warm up with an iron until the ointment is absorbed into the paper.

3. Using the plastic cycle, remove this impregnated paper. If necessary, repeat this procedure.

4. Remove the remaining dirt with a wash.

In the second case, the old holding ointment is removed with a plastic scraper and a wash.

Particular difficulties arise when removing the "old" (after long-term storage of skis) ointment, in this case it may be necessary to use all methods of removing the ointment.

Paraffin can also be used to cleanse the old holding ointment. It is necessary to paraffin that part of the ski on which the old ointment is located and until the paraffin has completely hardened, remove it with a scraper along with the old ointment. If necessary, repeat this procedure several times.

Preparing a block for classic skis

First you need to decide on the holding area (more on this in the inventory selection section).

For better grip and retention on the ski surface of the holding ointment, today it is customary to “raise the pile” in the holding area. To do this, it is necessary to process the holding area with fine-grained sandpaper for example - P100.

To improve glide, skis for “classic” skiing must be treated in the same way as skis for “skating” skiing, with only one but, they do not paraffin in the holding area, so as not to worsen the adhesion of the ointment to the ski surface. Well, if you have no time, then you can do without the preparation for sliding and go straight to the preparation for holding.

The ointment is more even when applied cold and when applied in several thin layers. It is better (and more correct) to rub the ointment on a profile machine.

Rubbing the ointment is done with quick movements. The cork rubs due to the heat generated by friction, however, if there is too much heat, the ointment will begin to stretch, resulting in lumps and gaps.

Remember that when using liquid waxes, the block should be shorter, since the coefficient of adhesion with snow for liquid waxes is much higher compared to solid waxes. On average, when using liquid ointment, the block becomes shorter by 15 cm. Many skiers, when switching to liquid ointments, not only make the block shorter, but often even switch to stiffer skis. In addition, the length of the distance has a great influence on the length of the block when switching to liquid ointments - the longer it is, the more the athlete gets tired, the more confident he needs to hold, and hence the longer block. In this case, the block is shortened compared to solid ointments not by 20 cm, but by 15 or only 10 cm.

Block for solid holding ointment

Block for holding liquid ointment (klister)

4.2. Skating preparation

Before you start preparing skating skis, try to remember and follow simple rules during the preparation process.

Spend some money on a good lubrication iron - it will work better and keep your skis from overheating. Most recreational skiers use a household iron, setting the temperature somewhere in the region... "cotton", "silk" or "synthetic". This is unacceptable ... Household irons have a thin "sole" that quickly heats up and also cools down quickly, and when preparing skis, it is necessary that the temperature of the iron be set as long as possible. When setting the temperature on a household iron, you can only guess it, and when using a special iron, its thermostat has an indicator of the desired temperature, most professional irons today come with electronic thermostats that help control the temperature more accurately.

HERE IS HOW YOU SHOULD USE THE IRON

After the iron has reached the correct temperature (which is usually the temperature at which the paraffin begins to melt on the surface of the iron), the iron is moved from the tip of the ski to the end in one continuous pass. Transfer the iron and start the same procedure again with the toe of the ski. Repeat the process from 3-4 times. This process ensures that the correct time is spent warming up the ski and there is little chance of overheating the base.

The application of paraffin is the most important moment in the proper preparation of skis.

Simple facts:

. Dry oxidized polyethylene can lead to the appearance of a "forced" base.

. Old dry bases do not absorb paraffin, especially fluoride.

. A poorly processed base loses its applied structure faster.

. The speed of your racing wax is highly dependent on the condition of the skis prior to waxing.

. Ultimately, overheating can reduce the efficiency and performance of all paraffins, especially those containing 100% fluorine.

Ski primer

Apply primer wax. In this case, it is desirable to use paraffin in excess, warming up the skis two or three times without intermediate scraping and adding paraffin insofar as it is absorbed into the surface.

Cool down your skis. After 20 - 30 minutes, remove excess paraffin with a plastic scraper and treat the surface with a nylon brush. Carry out this treatment of the sliding surface several times with a thorough cleaning with a nylon brush after each layer. With the above ski primer, we must achieve the creation of a gleaming layer on the surface.

If the weather conditions require the ski to have structure and the skis do not have a factory topcoat, you must manually make the appropriate structure. The structure is always applied before the base wax is applied to the ski. True, sometimes the weather interferes with this work order: for example, in the last hour before the start, temperature and humidity change dramatically. In this case, the structure has to be applied after the base wax.

When priming a sliding surface under basic paraffin, remember:

the melting point of the wax used in the primer must be higher than the melting point of the base wax, i.e. the priming wax should be more refractory (in this case, the base wax does not mix with the priming wax). In the case of cold weather, when frosty, and therefore refractory hard paraffin is used as the main paraffin, and it is not possible to use a harder one as a primer, we prime the skis with paraffin similar in hardness to the main paraffin.

With very old, hard, “aggressive” snow, if the weather is the same for a long period of time (especially frost), and just to remove electrostatic voltage from the surface when priming, it is recommended to use paraffin - “antistatic” (for example, “START” - antistatic or “REX” - antistatic, etc.)

when priming skis for the appropriate weather, it is necessary to use a simple paraffin for ordinary paraffin, and fluoride for fluorine-containing paraffin.

Application of base wax (corresponding to the weather)

Under the appropriate weather, we select the most suitable paraffin. After choosing a suitable paraffin, apply it to the sliding surface, melting the paraffin bar on the iron and thus filling the ski with a thick layer of melted hot paraffin. After the paraffin has cooled, its excess is removed with a plastic scraper. Next, a nylon brush (hard) removes paraffin residues. Then you need to polish to a shine with a softer brush.

When applying paraffin, you need to know the following: if paraffin is used for frosty weather (more refractory paraffin), then most of it must be removed before it hardens, because if the refractory paraffin is allowed to cool completely, it will become hard and will chip off the ski in pieces during scraping, leaving large expanses of wax-free skis. After the final cooling of the ski, the remaining paraffin is removed with a plastic scraper and then with a stiff nylon brush.

Application of the last layer - accelerator

The powder is sprinkled in a thin layer on a sliding surface, and then melted with an iron (the correct melting of the powder is evidenced by peculiar “dancing” sparks or stars that appear within one or two seconds after the passage of the iron). At the same time, it is desirable to melt the powder in one motion, when the iron slowly moves along the ski.

After cooling, the sliding surface of the ski is cleaned of excess powder with a natural brush (horsehair) and polished.

TIP: when cleaning the sliding surface from powder residues (accelerator), do not press hard on the ski - make soft movements with slight pressure on the brush.

Powders and accelerators can also be ground cold, without using an iron. To do this, the powder is sprinkled on the sliding surface of the ski (and the ski is rubbed with an accelerator, respectively) and rubbed with a hand, natural cork or a special polishing cork. Then they are processed with a natural brush and polished with polishing paper. However, the powder applied in this way is retained on the ski worse than the powder fixed on the skis with a hot iron, and this method of preparing skis is recommended only when participating in competitions for short (5-10 km) distances.