Do-it-yourself flies - manufacturing features. Correct fly fishing

Basic tools:

Auxiliary tools:

• spool holder with a tube for passing thread;
• knotweed;
• a handle with a needle at the end for working with dabbing, feathers and small parts of flies;
• tweezers for creating small flies.

Materials:

• mounting threads up to No. 60, silk, synthetic and woolen threads;
• feathers from the scalp of birds (turkey, rooster, chicken, partridge, duck, crow, starling, pheasant, etc.);
• dubbing (fur of rabbit, otter, muskrat and other animals, synthetic fibers);
• animal hair;
• tubular animal hair;
• lurex;
• copper wire;
• waterproof varnish for flies or nitro glue;
• beeswax.

Hooks which is used for tying a fly, there must be a ring bent in any direction vertically. The forend is usually straight, less often curved. Bend features depend on the hook model. The fly body, as a rule, begins to form from the hook barb.

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2. Any other baits with flavorings are less effective; it is better if they contain pheromones. But it’s most effective to use new 2016 — !
3. Learning different fishing techniques. For example, it is written about spinning wires.

Front sight fly

Materials:

• hook No. 8 - 18;
• mounting thread (black);
• black foam;
• dumbbell eyes;
• black and purple glitter dubbing;
• gray raffia;
• black chicken feather;

How to do fishing fly:

1. We wind the thread on the forend, starting from 2 mm to loop.
2. At the bend we tie a strip of foam and thread it to the fore-end.
3. We return the thread to the loop and attach a dumbbell-eye next to it.
4. From the dabbing we form the body of the fly (half of the forend from the bend side);
5. We bend the foam and secure it where the dabbing ends.
6. We attach a small strip of red foam to the middle there, without forgetting about the half knots so that the fly does not fall apart.
7. Having folded back the black foam, we screw the dabbing onto the forend up to the dumbbell.
8. We wrap strips of raffia to imitate wings. We cut off the excess.
9. We secure the beards of the chicken feather with coils next to the strip of black foam and pull them back with a thread.
10. Using dabbing, we form an insect breast and cover it with foam on top, making a loop of thread around the dumbbell. The excess part of the flat is cut off.
11. We use a knotter to give the head the desired shape.
12. Apply varnish to the head.

You can see a larger picture.

Chub and ide are good for catching with a black fly.

Wasp fly

Materials:

Stories from our readers. Theme: fishing suit

Georgy V. Kaliningrad– “For me, fishing is half my life. For as long as I can remember – from the age of 5 with my father until now, I’ve always been fishing. And if finding a good spinning rod is not a problem now, then with fishing suits it’s a real hemorrhoid. I’ve probably tried about 10 of them . Including the popular version of the “slide” for fishing. There is nothing really good. It’s either cold or hot. There are few pockets, but the seams are torn. Half a year ago I ordered another one, a special fishing one. And lo and behold! I didn’t expect such good quality "I don't have any problems anymore - excellent fabric, it doesn't get wet, even in rain, even in hail, even in terrible frost. 11 pockets! I recommend it to everyone! See the link below, you'll like it!"

• hook;
• black mounting thread;
• foam (yellow and black);
• fly wing mesh;
• 2 molds for burning wings (one should be smaller than the other);
• raffia strip;
• dumbbell-shaped eyes;
• refined wax;
• black dabbing;
• rubber feet;
• vinyl mustache;

How to do:

A picture of the main stages of making a wasp fly can be seen.

The fly imitates prey that is not included in the main diet of fish, but trout, chub, and grayling also bite well on the wasp fly.

Dead insect

Materials:

• needle;
• hook;
• 2 strips of white foam 1 mm thick;
• white mounting thread;
• rooster feather;
• white synthetic fibers for making flies.

How to do:

A picture of the main stages of manufacturing this fly can be seen.

The foam tail and wings made of synthetic material provide the fly with good buoyancy. Suitable for use when mass emergence of insects is observed and in the days after emergence (2 - 3). The disadvantage of such a fly the fact is that during casting it spins and the hook can catch on its wings.

Gadfly fly

Materials:

• hook;
• mounting thread;
• chenille;
• foam;
• refined wax;
• feather for legs;
• mesh for fly wings, burning mold;

So, how to do fly for fishing at home:

Larger picture.

HOW TO CHOOSE A SUIT FOR FISHING?

1. The main thing is the fabric and lining. To be warm in winter and not hot in summer. It would be great if it were polyester fabric with a through-cell structure that wicks away moisture and allows the skin to breathe.
2. presence of pockets. The more and the better they are located, the better.
3. Straps and hood are required. It would be great if the bottom is treated with a drawstring with a cord and clamps

Botflies often end up in the water at cattle watering holes.

Cows use their tails to drive them away, often knocking the insects into the river.

Ideal place for catching chubs and other fish with a gadfly - near a watering hole downstream.

Below are video step-by-step instructions for knitting a fly for fishing with your own hands.

Caddisfly running on water

Materials:

• hook number 10 or 12;
• mounting thread (10/0);
• Ghost Fiber Coarse in tan, cream or black;
• Centipede Legs Small, rubber feet;
• Fly Foam material 1 mm thick for the head;
• Superglue (glue)

How to do:

Caddisfly - trout's favorite food— crashes when the water temperature rises above 10 degrees Celsius. Departure usually occurs in the morning, at dusk or at night. Having emerged from the pupa on the water, the caddisfly runs along the water surface to the shore.

When it's light, use a fly colored in cream and orange, choosing places with a strong current. At night The black color of the bait works more effectively, and the place for fishing should be chosen where the water is calm.

The caddisfly flies well on the water surface even in very strong currents.

We tie a grasshopper for fly fishing

Materials:

• hook No. 6;
• mounting thread;
• for the body: closed-cell material (closed-cell foam) 2 millimeters thick;
• for eyes: black Loon Hard Head polish;
• legs: pheasant tail feather knees, green rubber legs;
• antenna: pheasant tail fiber;
• wing: Flashabou material, moose fur, Tape Wing tape;
• shoulder pad: foam rubber 1 mm thick (closed cells);
• belly: dabbing.

How to knit fishing flies:

Large size manufacturing scheme

How to do:

Trout, perch, roach, grayling, etc. are caught with nymphs at any time of the year, since there are always insect larvae in the reservoir.

Dry fly

Imitation of a mayfly on the surface of the water.

Materials:

• hook from 12 to 22 numbers;
• white mounting thread;
• Mayfly Tails, a special material for creating ponytails;
• white CDC dabbing (for the body);
• cream CDC wing feathers;
• cream rooster feather.

Making flies:

Large size picture.

The nozzle works well when mass emergence of mayflies. The fly splashes down with its wings, does not fall on its side, on the water surface even if intense current visible to the fisherman. They tie the fly with white thread and dabbing and color it with markers during this process. You can color your homemade fly in any color. For example, creamy yellow-orange, gray-black or gray-black-brown.

If you have hooks, tools, and at least a little knitting experience, any fly you like in a store or on the Internet for DIY fly fishing. Having mastered the basics of knitting, you can also make a fly in the likeness of any insect, if you want to create your own models.

Many fishermen are engaged making your own baits, starting from spinners and wobblers, ending with flies and streamers. Our conversation will focus on the latter, because with the help of artificial flies a spinner can catch almost any fish. Spinning flies, unlike fly fishing ones, it’s not difficult to make yourself.

Many spinning anglers associate artificial flies (streamer, nymph) with fly fishing. And it seems like, in principle, there can be nothing in common with spinning. In vain! Fish sometimes clearly prefer small artificial flies, completely ignoring the “pieces of iron” and “rubber”. And we are talking specifically about the use of flies in spinning. There are a great many combinations here: rigs with a bombard, pike streamers for fishing in overgrown reservoirs, asp wabs, turbo flies...

There is only one difference from fly fishing - almost always artificial flies in spinning rods are used in some kind of equipment, otherwise it will simply be impossible to cast a microscopic resemblance of an insect or small fish to an acceptable distance. The most common type of such equipment is the bombard. Behind the heavy float there is a leash made of thinner fishing line, at the end of which the fly is tied. Such equipment flies very far, and what is important is that the fish, as already noted, prefer micro baits, and primarily artificial flies.

Sometimes an asp wabik, tied to a fishing line in front of the main spoon, attracts the asp much more strongly than the “piece of iron”. It happens that the bite ratio reaches 3:1 in favor of the fly. And a pike in an overgrown pond can be seduced by a streamer that is not hooked, skillfully presented into a window of algae. So, if you have been skeptical about artificial flies until now, I advise you to pay attention to them. And it’s best to start with homemade flies made with your own hands.

Before describing in detail the manufacturing technology of each variety artificial flies, it is worth saying a few words about the raw materials used.

If in fly fishing the main attention is paid to ensuring that an artificial fly copies its natural prototype as much as possible (caddis flies or dragonflies), then in a spinning rod, due to its dynamism, such nuances are hidden. The only important things are the color of the fly, its size and shape (photo 1). And the presence or absence of eyes, bristles, antennae, etc. does not matter much.

The main material for making flies is ordinary woolen threads of various thicknesses and colors (photo 2). The most important thing is that they are very affordable and economical: from a used woolen scarf, for example, you can make several hundred of these baits. Bird feathers, such as pigeon feathers, are also used, as well as lurex, Christmas tree tinsel and much more. Everything is limited only by imagination. As for the shape of the fly, there is no point in making them fluffy and graceful - all this becomes invisible in the water.

Sometimes the color of the artificial flies makes a difference. More than once I found myself in situations where changing a fly of a natural color (gray-white, brown) to a bright, flashy one (carrot) changed both the number of bites and their quality.

Small perch flies

Application artificial flies for perch fishing gives very high results. You can use a variety of rigs: for example, together with a bombard or a bottom sinker, leading the rig closer to the bottom. In the latter case, you can tie several flies at once, which will have a qualitative impact on the final result.

Preparing and making perch flies

We will need: a single hook No. 8–10 according to domestic numbering, several different thicknesses of wool 3–4 cm long, nylon thread, you can take a small feather, for example from a pillow or down jacket, as well as nail polish (photo 3).

We wrap a feather to the hook with several turns of thread at the very tip (photo 3.1), after which the winding is secured with a drop of nail polish (photo 3.2). Then we wind the thick wool in the same way and fasten it with varnish (photo 3.3, 3.4). Add a few brighter hairs, they are also thinner (photo 3.5). For a perch fly, on average, one thick and two or three thin woolen threads are enough - otherwise it will turn out to be too bulky.

The varnish needs to be allowed to dry for a minute or two (photo 3.6). Then, using an ordinary sewing needle, we “comb” the hairs so that they are fluffy and the fly appears more uniform (photo 3.7). If necessary, trim the excess length of the hairs with scissors. The perch fly is ready (photo 3.8).

If you tie a sinker weighing 10-15 grams to the fishing line, and two or three flies at 15-20 centimeters at the same distance between each other and run this equipment above the bottom or in a stepped line, you can count on a good catch of perch. Especially when it comes to late-autumn fishing for schooling perch - it is at that time that it stays closer to the bottom layers of water. In summer, when perch is active on the surface, the best results are achieved by using floating bombards. A school of perch can be identified by the characteristic splashes on the surface of the water. This is the case when artificial flies show the best results, leaving spinners and jigs far behind.

Asp Vabik

Sometimes the asp chases the spoon, not daring to grab it. If you tie a wabik (photo 4) made of wool or feathers to the fishing line in front of the main lure, then the number of asp bites increases noticeably. Moreover, the asp sits on the bait, ignoring the spinner.

You can make an asp wabik as follows. Here the hook should already be larger and more powerful, it is advisable to take a double No. 3–4. Asp is a strong fish, and hooks made of weak wire may simply not hold up and bend. It is better to take thicker wool, in the amount of 3–4 pieces (photo 4.1).

They are wound with thread to the shank of the hook closer to the ring (photo 4.2, 4.3). Then the winding is secured with varnish (photo 4.4). We cut the hairs with scissors so that the wabik is no more than 3–4 cm long (photo 4.5). And then, as in the manufacture of perch flies, we fluff the wabik with a sewing needle (photo 4.6, 4.7).

As you can see, it's simple and fast. Wabik is a very multifunctional bait and allows for various applications.

The wabik can be used, as noted above, by tying it to a fishing line in front of the spoon at 20-25 cm when fishing for asp (photo 4.8), or in a rig with a bombard. However, the scope of application of wabiks is not limited to this. If you equip the wabik with a weight head, you will get an excellent jig bait for catching various predators (photo 4.9). This design flies much further than foam rubber and twisters. And sometimes casting distance is important.

It takes a maximum of two to three minutes to make a wabik with your own hands, and it lasts a very long time, unlike, say, silicone vibrotails, which sometimes become completely unusable after the first pike bite.

Pike streamer

Some reservoirs become very overgrown in summer. If at the beginning of summer you caught pike well, say, on some lake, and did not experience problems with snagging on the grass, then by mid-summer this very lake is completely covered with a carpet of algae. You need non-snagging baits. One of these can be called pike streamers (photo 5). In a non-snacking design or with an open hook - this depends on the specific place in which we will catch pike.

Most often, streamers are used in conjunction with Sbirulino floats, but they can also be used separately. In this case, you should either attach a small lead pellet to the shank of the streamer hook, or on a steel leash in front of it, so that you can at least somehow cast this same streamer.

"Skeleton" of anyone streamer or fly- this is a hook. In this case, we will need a special hook with anti-snatch protection (photo 5.1). Whether it will be steel wire or a loop made of ordinary monofilament fishing line is not so important. The main thing is that the protection is sufficiently effective and when the streamer comes into contact with the grass, the loop does not fly off, exposing the hook tip.

We will need a large and powerful hook, a size somewhere around number ten; if we talk about domestic or international numbering, it will be No. 1–2. You will also need various wools and a piece of lurex (photo 5.2).

We thread a piece of lurex about 5–6 cm long to the shank of the hook (photo 5.3). Next comes the procedure for “fluffing” the lurex with a sewing needle (photo 5.4, 5.5). The wool needs to be wrapped on the sides of the streamer. Here you can use a variety of colors, but you shouldn’t wrap more than 4-5 pieces (photos 5.6, 5.7). We fix the thread winding with nail polish (photo 5.8). Let's fluff up the wool with a needle and use scissors to give the streamer the desired shape, cutting off the excess wool threads. The finished streamer for pike is shown in photo 5.9.

The streamer should be driven slowly, with small stretches. The streamer itself is slowly sinking - so you can let it sink deeper into the grass windows. It flies very close, but this is more than compensated by its performance. When you need a longer cast, you can add a weighting agent to the streamer in the form of a bombard or, say, a wobbler, removing the hooks from it so that the grass does not cling. The wobbler is followed by a leash about 60–70 cm long. And do not forget to place a small steel leash in front of the streamer.

Fly on the hook (tee) of the spinner

If you want to tie fly on a hook your favorite spinner (photo 6), then there is nothing complicated about it.

Take three or four brightly colored hairs (red, carrot) 5–6 cm long (photo 6.1). Remove the hook from the spoon and thread these hairs through its ring (photo 6.2). To fix them, use a small piece of cambric (photo 6.3), simply putting it on top of the hook ring (photo 6.4). Now you need to fluff the fly with a needle (photo 6.5).

Manufacturing is so quick and simple that you can tie a fly on a hook right while fishing. In some cases, a brightly colored artificial fly on the hook of a spinner or spoon clearly has a positive effect on the bite. And first of all, this often happens when fishing for pike in shallow water. The fly gives the lure additional attractiveness. Perch really likes a spinner with a red fly on a hook.

Turbomushka

This variety artificial flies(photo 7) appeared relatively recently. Turbo flies gained popularity primarily when fishing for perch. The fact is that perch is very partial to lures that create turbulent turbulence when retrieving, and especially to lures with a propeller. In addition, the perch “notices” the propeller from a much greater distance than a regular fly without a propeller.

So, first you need to connect on a small threesome fly, similar to the one with which we equipped the hook of the spoon (photo 7.1, 7.2). To make a propeller, we need a piece of tin from a tin can, a piece of guitar string No. 2 or some other thin steel wire, two or three small beads (photo 7.3).

The most important element of a turbo fly is not the fly itself, but the propeller (photo 7.4). It should be done as carefully as possible, otherwise the line will twist strongly, interfering with fishing. The size of the propeller is as follows: length 15 mm, width 5 mm.

Tin is very easy to cut with ordinary scissors. Sharp edges are smoothed with a diamond file. It is important that the propeller blades are symmetrical about the axis. The angle of rotation of the blades is directly proportional to the speed of rotation of the propeller - the steeper the angle, the faster the propeller rotates. The optimal angle is 45° (photo 7.5).

The main elements of the turbofly are ready - let's move on to their installation. We bend one of the ends of the wire and attach our front sight to it (photo 7.6). We string the beads and the propeller itself (photo 7.7). We curl the end of the string - and the turbo fly is ready (photo 7.8).

The most common use of a turbo fly is in a rig with a bombard (photo 7.9). The main fishing line (braid) is threaded through the float antenna, and a swivel is tied at the end. Next comes a leash made of monofilament fishing line up to 1 meter long.

This rig is carried out by swinging the tip of the spinning rod at an average pace. And it is most in demand when searching for perches in the upper layers of water, when they are not localized in schools, but stay scattered, because the bombard allows you to fish a very large area of ​​water from one point.

IN Nowadays, automation of literally all processes in any field of activity has reached the highest level. But tying a fly, just like the century before, is done with your own hands.

P Some fly fishermen make flies more readily than use them later in the fishing process. It is possible to create a real copy of insects only if a person has hard work, patience and some talent. The step-by-step process of creating a fly is always individual and depends on the master himself. At the same time, you cannot visually notice any differences between flies of the same type, because the same tools and materials are used and certain proportions are observed.

Necessary components for knitting

P If you have hooks, a set of special tools and a little experience, it is quite possible to make a fly from a picture or copy a live insect. For this you will need:

• A vice or machine for clamping the hook. They are the most necessary devices for knitting. Can be anything.
• Bobbin thread holder. Necessary to hold the spool of thread for installation. It prevents them from unwinding, producing a reliable fixation.
• Threader. Used to thread threads through the bobbin holder tube.
• Clamps for holding materials. Must be available in several sizes.
• Special scissors. They must have small notches on the blade. If you don't have them, use nail scissors.
• Special looper. This item is capable of making any multi-turn knot to complete knitting, but does not serve as a necessary tool.
• You also can’t do without mortars (to even out the fur)
• Tubes with conical ends (for throwing half-knots)
• Tweezers, small brushes and needles (to coat the fly parts)
• Magnifiers (for more convenient work)
• Mirror (to better wind threads, wires and lurex)
• Desk lamp.

What can you use to tie an artificial fly?

IN The choice of material used for tying flies can amaze the novice tyer. There are, of course, individuals who are unable to cope without using, for example, the fur of a rare animal, but most fishermen still successfully replace exotic materials with suitable analogues.

Necessary materials:

• Hooks. A fundamental element for any fly, it can have different coating options, dimensions and shapes. At the same time, you should not ignore the main rule: thin hooks for a dry fly, thick ones for a wet counterpart.
• Mounting threads. They are necessary in order to connect and secure all the parts of the front sight to the forend. Must be thin and durable.
• Feathers. Rooster feathers are commonly used to create an attractive brush, caterpillar or wings, while peacock and marabou bird feathers are also popular.
• Dabbing. It is necessary to create realistic transparency and volume of flies. Can be made from synthetics or natural ingredients.
• Animal fur. Sometimes wool and leather are used.
• Lurex. Used for wrapping the fly.

WITH There are other possible materials, and in sufficient quantities. Innovative technologies make it possible to develop new substances, and the market actively responds to the needs of modern knitters, filling specialized stores with the necessary materials.

Mu shki used not only in fly fishing, but also when fishing with bombards, "ships" and "katama" wounds", from ice, etc.
Today, many anglers would like to master bombard fishing, but where to get flies ? Not everyone can afford to spend 15-20 thousand rubles at once.
Hand on heart. I will say that this amount is not enough to purchase high-quality materials and tools for making flies, but you should not give up. You can tie an excellent working fly without making such a big investment.

I hope this article will be useful for beginners. as well as for experienced fishermen who have decided to add to their arsenal working flies made from materials that can be found at home and in stores in any city.
I'll tell you how to tie a wet fly , imitating a free-living caddisfly. It is easy to make and is an excellent bait for catching grayling, chub, lenok, asp, roach, trout, rudd, sabrefish and other types of fish.

Materials
Threads . You can use so-called silk threads as a mounting thread. Where can I buy? Go to any haberdashery store and purchase Polyester Filament (photo 1). Regular cotton thread will fall apart in water.
I recommend black threads for this bait. Looking ahead, I will say that this is the most popular color.
Hooks. I believe that it is not worth saving on hooks. But since you're just learn to tie flies , I can recommend these (photo 2). These hooks cost no more than 60 rubles... and in the package (judging by the photo), it looks like they cost at least a hundred.
They, of course, have their drawbacks. When knitting, at least 5% of purchased hooks will break in a vice. The same number have an incorrect or displaced sting or do not have one at all. Such hooks quickly rust, and in a fight with a large, strong fish, they give the fish, not you, a chance to win.
But you won’t get a high-quality and proportional front sight right away; anyway, at first there will be a lot of substandard ones. And if a “large fish” bites and breaks your hook, then this will be the best impetus for switching to products from CANNELLE, TMS, KAMASAN.
Feathers. Pillow feathers are fine; you only need a handful.
How to choose the right pen? To make legs, you need feathers with short and stiff hairs of a brown, rusty color (photo 3). Finding them will not be difficult for us.
Since we are tying a wet fly, and therefore its ability to float does not matter to us, we can simply take the narrowest feather that we could get from the pillow.
In a haberdashery store it is worth purchasing silver-colored lurex for making decorative winding (photo 4).
Dabbing . Don't be afraid of this foreign word - it's just an undercoat of fur or a mixture with hair or synthetics.
We start searching through the cabinets again. I’m more than sure that you probably have an old rabbit hat or a moth-eaten collar lying around somewhere. You are unlikely to wear such things, and one hat will last you more than one year of knitting (photo 5).
We will mention all the other materials that you will need during the manufacturing process.
Let's start knitting
Take a single hook (photo 6). We fasten it in a vice by the bend, while the tip should stick out and protrude beyond the jaws of the vice.
We fix the mounting thread (photo 7).
For creating green caddis imitation You can use hooks with a long shank. from No. 28 to No. 8. For fishing with sbirulino, boat and spinning rod, it is better to use hooks from No. 16 to No. 8 - smaller ones and small fish will be collected. For ice fishing, I recommend using hooks no larger than No. 14. although there are exceptions here too.
We cut off the excess and wrap the hook with a mounting thread towards the bend (prying) of the hook (photo 8).
Now we need a wool thread to form the base of the body of our future fly. We fasten the thread in the center of the forend. You can, of course, wind the warp using a mounting thread, but this takes a long time. Moreover, this is a very tedious task (photo 9).
We wrap it, thickening the base in the center and closer to the hook ring, giving it a spindle-shaped shape (photo 10).
We trim off the excess wool thread and attach Lurex. Now we wrap the base crosswise with a mounting thread and move it towards the hook.
We do unloaded caddis nymph , but if you want to fly fish or use a jig in winter, then the base of the body should be wound from ordinary copper wire from a transformer. The smaller the hook, the thinner the wire (photo 11).
However, you should remember: the tighter you lay the coils and the thinner the wire, the heavier our nymph will turn out.
Be sure to coat the base of the body with rubber cement, wait until it dries, and then continue. If you don't do this, the dabbing thread will slip on the copper wire and you won't be able to make the body.
Now you will need alcohol-containing markers in black and green (turquoise), they can be purchased at a stationery store. Let's paint the base black, as shown in photo 12. This operation is necessary so that the color does not bleed through if you later lay the lubbing unevenly.
You need to pull out one or two whispers of fur from the rabbit skin (photo 13) and mix the pile of our dubbing well until smooth. This only takes a minute. We take half and place it on the mounting thread. To simplify the work, you can pre-coat the thread with an adhesive pencil, which is sold in any office supply store.
Fold the fur around the mounting thread a little. How to do it? Imagine that you are about to clap your hands. The thread will be between the fingers of your palms. Now rub your palms a little - this will roll the dabbing thread.
Next, we make one turn around the shank of the hook so that the dabbing thread is secured to the hook (photo 14).
Now we twist our thread counterclockwise, and, wrapping the forearm away from us, we begin to create the body (photo 15).
You shouldn’t take a lot of dabbing at once - it will be inconvenient to work with. It's better to add some dabbing again and continue shaping the body (photo 16).
We add a new portion of dabbing until we reach the end (photo 17).
Now we make a couple of knots and secure with a drop of any nail polish or construction PF. Color the body with a green marker (photo
18).
The front sight looks terrible with hairs sticking out in all directions. But don't even think about cutting them off!
Once the body is dry, cover the back with a black marker (Photo 19). In all larvae, the back is always slightly darker than the abdomen. Don't be afraid of such a sharp boundary between colors. After the fur has completely dried, it will be smooth.transition, and the colors will become muddier and less saturated. Believe me, dirty shades are better perceived by fish than bright and poisonous ones.
Now we will have to perform the most difficult operation in making this imitation - wrap the body of the fly with lurex in the opposite direction. When making artificial flies, the materials are always laid in opposite directions. This is a rule designed to better secure materials.
We shaped the body with movements away from ourselves. So, decorateWe do the external winding of lurex ourselves. By wrapping lurex around the body, we create segments of the caddisfly's body (photo 20). and with our left hand we smooth all the protruding hairs towards the pry. The operation is not the easiest, but with a little patience, everything will work out. We fix it with a knot. We cut off the excess lurex. Now you can trim off all the stray hairs.
We've come to making the legs. We clean the spine of the feather, which we prepared in advance, approximately 5 mm (photo 21). We attach the assembly thread to the cleaned spine and wrap the hook 2-3 times and form a large head. But don’t get carried away - the head should not be larger than the body.
We cut off the excess thread and coat the head with varnish in two passes. The first layer will be absorbed and secure the entire structure. The second one will add shine. If necessary, you can carefully tint the back with a marker.
The fly is ready. In two-color war paint, it is more impressive and effective than one-color. Now I suggest you take my word for it, but after tying this fly and fishing with it, you will agree with me.
I hope you find this tutorial helpful and proves that fly fishing and making these realistic lures doesn't cost much. The most important thing is to set a goal and move towards it, even if you don’t have high-quality materials and tools. It's possible!

I admit, now I only use Metz feathers, hooks from the best manufacturers, and a bench vice, in which I have distilled more than one
I threw a hundred flies into the closet long ago. But in the early 80s, I also pulled wool from a rabbit and dyed it as best I could. It happened that I ran over colorful roosters on a bicycle, carried manicure scissors and nail polish from my mother, and trimmed my beloved cat.
Vaska. Now you can buy bucktails, but earlier, in the village at my grandmother’s, many cows remembered me with scissors in my hands, cutting the wool from their tails.
I tied the described fly for the first time when I was 6 years old, under the supervision of my father. Certainly,

At first it didn’t work out so well, but grayling and perch willingly sat on the hook.
Why did I tell you this? And besides, the fish doesn’t care what you made the fly from - the main thing is that it looks like the insect being copied. When knitting an imitation green caddisfly, you can safely experiment with the color of the legs and abdomen. Always make the back either black or brown. Also, don't be afraid to use different sizes of hooks. I will say that in central Russia I and the members of our Reversible Boat club use this bait on hook No. 10.
Have a little patience - and very soon you will understand how interesting it is to fish with artificial flies.
Welcome to our wonderful world!

Hello, dear fishermen. The article is devoted to the production of artificial flies from scrap materials.

And of course I will explain how to use them. Don't be alarmed, we're not talking about fly fishing. Of course, this is a very beautiful, not the cheapest and extremely difficult method of fishing for many beginners.
This note will be useful for both beginners and experienced fishermen who have decided to add artificial flies to their arsenal and stubbornly do not want to part with their favorite spinning rod or float rod. I’ll tell you in detail how to knit working flies from materials that can be found at home and in stores in any city. Example for catching grayling and lenok
And, of course, how to use them when fishing with a boat, sbirulino, as well as when ice fishing and using a regular float rod.
Fishing with sbirulino (bombard) is becoming increasingly popular. Many fishermen already want to master sbirulino, and use hand-made flies as bait... Not everyone can afford to spend 15-20 thousand at once. Hand on heart, I will say that this amount is not enough. Don't give up. In this and subsequent lessons, you will understand that you can tie an excellent working fly without investing a huge amount of money. Two years ago I started using materials specifically designed for making artificial flies.

And for about twenty-seven years I was tying flies from a pillow, with which I caught a lot of different fish. All Russian fly tying masters were born in the USSR. And at that time there was practically no information about fly fishing and flies. But there were also flies, there was fly fishing, some semblance of sbirulino, boats.

1. You can tie flies from available feathers and threads.
2. They will be received with a bang by the fish (the main thing is to adhere to the rules and methods of knitting).
3. Trips to haberdashery stores will help you purchase materials that are tens of times cheaper than specialized ones, but, alas, less convenient to make flies.
4. With proper experience, flies made from scrap materials are practically indistinguishable from flies made from specialized materials.
5. There are special materials that cannot be replaced by anything.
6. There are tools on which you should not skimp and reinvent the wheel.

First, I'll show you how to make a working fly at minimal cost.

But with each next lesson I will convince you of the need to purchase tools that will greatly simplify the creation of your creations. We will consider the section open! Let's start by making an imitation brown mayfly with green legs and setae. This fly is easy to make and is an excellent bait for catching various species of representatives of the caudate family. Follow my detailed descriptions and get a bait that will seduce grayling, chub, lenok, asp, roach, trout, rudd, sabrefish and other fish.

Imitation of brown mayfly. Materials

Let's start with the threads. You can use so-called “silk threads” as a mounting thread. Where can I buy? Go to any haberdashery store and buy Polyester Filament threads, you can use the most ordinary cotton threads, but such savings are already too much. The cotton threads in the water will begin to fall apart.