The most famous quartz movements. Which clock mechanism is better?

Today, ETA is one of the world's largest manufacturers of watch movements. Swiss ETA movements are used by companies such as Tissot, Hamilton, Mido, Certina, Longines, Rado, Maurice Lacroix, Raymond Weil, TAG Heuer, which market mid- and high-end products. However, the list of “clients” is also supplemented by premium watch companies: Breitling, Chopard, IWC, Omega, Officine Panerai.
High-end and premium watch companies usually purchase basic mechanisms (French ébauche), modifying them independently in their own manufactory. In addition, the ETA factory embosses the watch company logo on the inertial weight of mechanical watches.
ETA's products - Swiss watch movements - are reliability, durability, quality and strict control over the manufacturing technology of watch movements. The use of high-precision, fully automated lines for the production and assembly of Swiss watch movements allowed the ETA company to produce movements for inexpensive and excellent quality watches. When you see the following parameter in the watch's characteristics: "Movement type: Swiss ETA movement", rest assured - this is a wristwatch with a movement of real Swiss quality with impeccable accuracy characteristics!
Valjoux
Another Swiss watch movement manufacturer is Valjoux (after Vallée de Joux, "Joux Valley"). The company mainly produces movements with a chronograph function, which are widely used in mid- and high-priced watches. Initially created as an independent manufacturer, today the manufacture is part of ETA and is part of the Swatch Group. As part of its activities under the auspices of the Swatch Group, the Valjoux division is responsible for the design and production of the Valjoux ETA 7750 movements and their variations (7751, 7753, 7754), which are very popular and are used in the majority of mechanical chronographs. Among the “clients” of the Valjoux division are such names as Certina, Omega, MareMonti, Longines, Tissot, Oris, Appella, TAG Heuer, IWC, Porsche Design, Sinn and so on.
UNITAS
Another, no less famous Swiss movement is the UNITAS mechanism. The appearance of this mechanism is inextricably linked with the Swiss watch company Auguste Reymond S.A., which was founded in 1898 and bears the name of its creator Auguste Reymond in the city of Tramelan. The company's products have always been the focus of close attention from collectors from all over the world. The watch company Auguste Reymond S.A. contributed to the production of mechanisms. introduced in the pre-war years and until the 60s produced its legendary UNITAS movements, used in watches of many watch companies. Back in 1906, the company opened the Les Bjoux factory, where the legendary UNITAS movements were produced. Swiss UNITAS movements, produced at the factory of the watch company Auguste Reymond S.A., were distinguished by fairly high quality at a very reasonable price, as a result of which other watch companies began actively purchasing them. Two types of UNITAS mechanisms - UNITAS 6497 and 6498 managed to safely survive all the historical cataclysms of the 20th century and are still in mass production to this day. These legendary movements are widely used in their watches by almost all watch companies specializing in pocket watches.

Swiss concerns - giants Swatch Group and Richemont Group: divide and conquer!

Today, even the most unenlightened person in the watch industry has undoubtedly heard of such an “institution” as the Swatch Group. It is a watch giant in the global watch industry, accounting for about 25% of global sales. The history of the emergence of the Swiss concern Swatch Group is as follows: the watch companies Omega and Tissot in 1930 created the Société suisse pour l’industrie horlogère (SSIH) group. Soon the group included the company Lemania Watch Co & A. Lugrin, whose main specialization was the manufacture of various complications (moon phase indicators, as well as sunrise and sunset times and dates). By mutual decision, the Tissot watch company concentrated its production capacity on “montres civils”, and Omega on “gamme de luxe”. In 1931, the watch companies Longines and Rado merged into the Allgemeine Schweizerische Uhrenindustrie AG (ASUAG) group, which was a response to the creation of the SSIH group. However, this separate existence ended in 1983, when the two groups were merged into the Sociґetґe de Microґelectronique et d'Horlogerie (SMH). In addition to the unification of the two main Swiss watch associations, the ranks of SMH have been supplemented by such influential independent watch manufacturers as Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Jaquet Droz, Léon Hatot, Omega, Rado, Longines (luxury), Tissot, Certina, UNION Glashütte, Balmain, Calvin Klein Watches & Jewelry, Hamilton, Mido, Endura (mid-range) Flik Flak and Swatch. These names are the main evidence of the power of the concern. In 1998, the SMH group was renamed the Swatch Group, which was replenished with the following companies: the oldest manufacturer of basic watch movements, ETA; Lémania - manufacturer of the best calibers, complemented by various complications; Frédéric Piguet - manufacturer of highly complex calibers; Valdar is a company producing mechanical watch units; Comadur - manufacturer of ruby ​​axles and sapphire crystals; Nivarox - a company producing pendulums, springs and other movable clock components; Meco - manufacturer of crowns, Universo - manufacturer of watch hands, Rubattel & Weyermann, producing dials; the Lascor company, which provides the concern with cases and bracelets; Favre & Perret and Georges Ruedin are manufacturers of high quality cases; miniature chip manufacturing company EM Microelectronic-Marin; Oscilloquartz SA - manufacturer of quartz oscillators; Micro Crystal - manufacturer of microgenerators; the Renata company, which produces miniature batteries; Lasag - manufacturer of laser industrial equipment; Swiss Timing Ltd. , which specializes in equipment designed for sports timing. This long list is not given by chance: it completely proves that the Swatch Group is a single, highly organized organism that does not need external suppliers and is able to satisfy all its needs through its production power. Even the equipment for creating watch components and cases for the future chronometer are produced within the concern. The ETA division is the Swatch Group's main weapon in the competition and on which other watch manufacturers outside the Swatch Group depend. In 2007, an agreement was concluded between the Swatch Group and the American luxury manufacturer Tiffany & Co for a period of 20 years, according to which the joint company would establish production under the Tiffany & Co brand. This is further proof that the Swatch Group very skillfully spreads its influence throughout the world - from Asia to America.
The Swatch Group provides jobs for more than 20 thousand people. In 2007, the concern managed to cross the billion-dollar barrier: the net profit of the Swatch Group amounted to 1 billion. The son of the legendary Nicholas Hayek, Nick Hayek (Jr.), became the CEO of the Swatch Group. The main office is located in the Swiss town of Bien. To conclude this little information for thought about the Swatch Group, I will note an interesting fact from the concern’s activities. In 1994, the Swatch Group and Daimler-Chrysler were involved in a project to develop and create a Smart microcar - the Swatch Mercedes ART. However, as a result of disagreements with partners, Swatch Group refused to participate in the project. It’s a pity, it would be interesting to look at this creation...
Another, no less significant company, Richemont, also has a fairly large influence both in Switzerland and around the world. Richemont is a Swiss holding company that specializes in the production of luxury goods. In 1988, South African entrepreneur Johan Rupert founded Richemont. In addition to producing luxury watches, the company is involved
also in industries such as jewelry, writing instruments, clothing and firearms, which do not really fit into this list. The company is listed on the SIX Swiss Exchange and the JSE Securities Exchange. It is no coincidence that the main specialization of the company is luxury goods, since the list of names of the concern includes luxury brands: the German watch company A. Lange & Söhne, the English largest manufacturer of men's clothing, watches and leather accessories Alfred Dunhill, the Swiss watch company Baume et Mercier, the French company of expensive jewelry and watches Cartier, the French women's clothing brand Chloé, watch companies IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Manufacture Roger Dubuis S.A. (60% shares), English firearms manufacturer James Purdey and Sons, French leather goods company Lancel, German writing instruments and watch manufacturer Montblanc International GmbH, Italian watch company Officine Panerai, legendary Swiss jewelry and watch company Piaget S.A. , luxury watch brand Vacheron Constantin, French company Van Cleef & Arpels S.A., producing exclusive jewelry and watches. The group even included the Chinese brand Shanghai Tang, which produces men's and women's clothing, as well as the British company Net-a-Porter Ltd., which specializes in selling clothing online. Such a wide range of products produced by the Richemont group allows it to maintain its highest position in the global luxury goods market.
In 2007, the Richemont group and Polo Ralph Lauren Inc. established a joint venture called Polo Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewelery Company (S.A.R.L.), in which each participant owns 50%.
The Richemont group provides jobs to about 22 thousand people. Two thirds of the company's employees work in Europe and a quarter in Asia. However, workers in the Asian region are not involved in production: their main specialization is retail trade, distribution, after-sales service and various administrative functions. For 2009, the company's net profit amounted to 600 million euros. The head office is located in Geneva. Richemont's CEO is Johan Rupert.
The Swatch Group and Richemont Group have been operating in the Swiss and global markets for a long time, continuing to add new brands to their lists. It is safe to say that watchmaking will live on, at least through Richemont and the Swatch Group.

Watch exhibitions: the diversity of the watch world

Baselworld is a famous international exhibition of watches and jewelry of international level. The exhibition has been held annually in the Swiss city of Basel since 1973. Today it is one of the largest and most important events in the watch industry. The holding of Baselworld 2011 in Switzerland as the center of the watch industry is due to the fact that watch production is growing every year and is constantly developing, which is qualitatively reflected directly on the models and brands of watches and jewelry.
The history of Baselworld dates back to 1917, when the first Swiss design fair in Basel, MUBA (Schweizer Mustermesse Basel), was organized with a special section dedicated to watches and jewelry. In 1925, MUBA organized an exhibition, which was attended by several watch manufactories, which already in 1931 at the first Swiss exhibition-fair Schweizer Uhrenmesse were presented in separate specialized pavilions. The year 1972 was marked by an important event in the history of the exhibition: MUBA organized an exhibition called “Europe's meeting place”, which brought together companies from France, Italy, Germany and the UK under one roof. In 1983, it had already acquired With great significance, the event was renamed BASEL plus two numbers symbolizing the year of the exhibition, for example, BASEL 83. Already the BASEL 86 exhibition included exhibitors from non-European countries, which greatly increased the influx of visitors not only from Europe, but from countries beyond its borders In 1995, the name of the exhibition was again modified: it now became known as “BASEL 95 - The World Watch, Clock and Jewelery Show.” In 1999, the grand opening of the new watch pavilion “Pavilion 1” measuring 2 × 18,000 sq.m. in which it is possible to build exhibition stands up to three floors high. Introduction of a clear organization of the exhibition-fair by sector. The exhibition was organized on three floors with an updated design. The 2000 Basel Fair saw a 6% increase in visitors, a significant increase for the event. In 2003, another one was carried out in the further rapid development of this Swiss “brand” - a new corporate identity appeared - BASELWORLD, The Watch and Jewelery Show. This name of the exhibition fully characterizes the focus of the event: its leading position is no longer only in Switzerland and Europe, but throughout the world. In 2004, a new complex was built - Halle 5 (Hall 5). The Universe Hall includes national pavilions. The exhibition area has been increased to 160,000 sq. m. In 2005, the Hall of Elements was reconstructed, providing companies with multi-story stands for exhibiting precious stones, diamonds and pearls.

Today, Baselworld brings together approximately 2,100 exhibitors from more than 45 countries, as well as companies specializing in precious stones. All exhibitors throughout the exhibition are industry experts showcasing their latest products to the media, collectors and connoisseurs of all things beautiful. Visitors to the exhibition can get acquainted with the entire range of products presented directly. The exhibition area is more than 160,000 sq.m with different halls in several halls. Products are divided into sectors, which are presented in six exhibition halls, such as the Hall of the Universe, the Elements, the Hall of Visions, etc. The management of Baselworld ensures that the design of the halls is constantly updated. In 2007, the Hall of Dreams was completely renovated. Each watch and jewelry company presents its products in its own pavilions. Demonstration of its products provides the company with a more complete understanding and overview of the market and its state, and also creates a reliable basis for future discoveries of new opportunities and search for new partners. Baselworld also gives companies complete and reliable information about the state of their main competitors (if, of course, they participate in the exhibition). Baselworld attracts over 94,000 visitors, retailers and wholesalers from around the world to experience the latest trends and innovations in the watch and jewelery industries.
Event participants can also visit Baselworld Village, located next door. “Village” offers various services, such as bars and restaurants, lounges, open areas where future partners can discuss their cooperation issues in a cozy environment. Baselworld Village is open from 6pm to 2am. Visitors will need a 10-minute ride by taxi, tram or bus to visit the village.

One of the most elite and private events in the watch industry is SIHH (Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie). For the first time, the salon opened its doors to a limited circle of people and companies in 1991. The venue for this elite event was the Palexpo exhibition hall in Geneva, where SIHH takes place annually. This is why there is never any question about the future of SIHH. However, SIHH always coincides with BaselWorld. This is no coincidence: the organizers of the salon “take care” of their guests, because when they come to Switzerland in the spring, they immediately find themselves at two of the most significant events in the watch world. Apart from concern, there is another reason for this double holding: during the exhibition in Switzerland there are additional trains, buses and flights to accommodate the large number of guests. It is more advisable to carry out such work once a year, so as not to once again disturb the quiet life of the townspeople. Unlike BaselWorld, SIHH is a closed event that can only be visited by invitation. However, this does not in any way affect the number of visits: about 10,000 people visit the salon annually. The number of watch brands that are represented at the salon is much lower than at the BaselWorld exhibition. The main companies of the salon are as follows: Audemars Piguet, Piaget, Baume & Mercier, Girard-Perregaux, Vacheron Constantin, A.Lange & Sohne, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, JeanRichard, Van Cleef & Arpels, Panerai, Parmigiani Fleurier, Roger Dubuis, Cartier, Officine, Alfred Dunhill and Montblanc. It should be noted that the vast majority of the names on this list are companies belonging to the powerful Richemont concern, while at the BaselWorld exhibition, the main hall is mainly “occupied” by the companies of the Swatch Group.
The SIHH salon is an event for true professionals who dictate the fashion for watches and jewelry. Invitations from the organizers are sent only to journalists, watchmakers, jewelers, distributors and other experts in the watch industry. The main highlight of the salon is the organization of a theatrical performance at its opening, which is always distinguished by its originality and secrecy. This small “sacrament” creates a special atmosphere that prepares guests to contemplate the luxury presented in the salon. However, let’s not argue: the scope of the SIHH salon cannot compete with BaselWorld in terms of scale, number of participating companies and exhibition space. However, the number of exclusive models presented at SIHH is not losing ground. Here the situation is completely different: every prestigious watch company strives to become a member of an elite salon. The organizers of the salon consider all applications without exception, but SIHH accepts only the best of the best into its ranks, exhibiting their exclusive models at stands. That is why the bold statement that the SIHH salon collects all the best watches and jewelry is completely justified.
Of course, our list of watch exhibitions will be incomplete without such a very young one, however
very famous in the watch world, the Geneva Time Exhibition (GTE). The GTE watch exhibition was first organized in 2010 in Geneva, the main task of which was to bring the original creations of young watch companies and independent watchmakers to the general public. The organizers of this “useful” event were Florence Noel, a specialist in the field of communication of luxury brands, Dominique Franchino, an organizer of exhibitions and events, and Paola Orlando. According to the organizers who spoke at the preliminary press conference, the main goal of the GTE exhibition is to create optimal conditions for the sale of creative watches from those manufacturers that are not part of large concerns. The official partners of the exhibition were such well-known companies as the Sotheby’s auction house, the Audi automobile brand and the legendary champagne brand Laurent-Perrier (yes, apparently, the guests were able to thoroughly enjoy the taste of this unsurpassed drink). The organizers provide watchmakers with stands - luxury class modules, the area of ​​which is 9 and 12 square meters. meters, as well as all the necessary equipment. This is the main difference from the BaselWorld exhibition, where watch and jewelry companies acquire square meters in the halls for this short period of time, installing their own pavilions and stands on them, some of which can cost millions, such as Rolex. The popularity of GTE is growing: this is evidenced by the fact that in 2010 about 30 companies took part in the exhibition, in 2011 - twice as many. The cost of participation in this event is 13 thousand Swiss francs. Admission is free for visitors, but they must be accredited in advance on the organizers’ website.
Watch exhibitions are a fairly effective way to promote products, as well as conclude new contracts for future fruitful cooperation. In conclusion, we can confidently add that Swiss exhibitions are quite skillfully and clearly divided between the Swatch Group, Richemont and independent watchmakers.

When buying replica watches, you have probably come across such a concept in watch descriptions more than once as “Swiss ETA movement”. What is a Swiss ETA movement? Let's try to figure it out.

Swiss ETA movement– a familiar concept, right? Do you know the meaning of this term? What watch mechanism is hidden behind this definition - Swiss ETA movement? It's actually simple. If you hear or read the phrase “watch with a Swiss ETA movement,” this means that the mechanism of such a watch was produced by the Swiss company ETA, a subsidiary of the concern - the leader in the production of watches and watch movements, Swatch Group Ltd.

ETA company headquarters is located in the Swiss town of Grenchen, close to the heart of the Swatch Group Ltd empire, which is headquartered in Biel. In the structure of the Swatch Group, the ETA subsidiary is the link that is responsible for the development, production of components and assembly of Swiss watch movements.

The ETA company is a giant production complex that produces watch movements for almost all Swiss watch manufacturers. ETA has more than one hundred million Swiss movements produced per year. This accounts for more than half of all watch movements produced in Switzerland and, no less, a tenth of the world production of watch “hearts”, which has long crossed the threshold of a billion movements per year.

As part of the ETA company– more than twenty factories with the latest technology and production automation systems, the best minds of scientists are constantly working on the creation and improvement of which. These factories produce Swiss watch movements, and assemble the watches themselves for many customers of the Swatch Group Ltd holding company, and ETA produces about 20% of its annual production to cover the needs for Swiss movements of the giant Swatch Group Ltd itself. The year of birth of ETA is considered to be 1793. This year, in the village of Grenchene, the first stone was laid in the foundation of the factory, which is considered the ancestor of ETA. The period between the birth of the company and the current ETA cannot be called easy for the company - during this period, smaller and even larger competitors were absorbed, fragmented into small companies, but, ultimately, the ETA company grew to gigantic proportions. If there was a historian who set out to restore these events and write them down on paper, it would turn out to be several weighty volumes.

ETA is a company that produces Swiss movements for all other subsidiaries of Swatch Group Ltd. Almost all the watches produced by this watchmaker are assembled only from Swiss ETA movements, and only a small fraction of watches use custom Swiss movements from other manufacturers.

Automated lines for the production of watch mechanics, watch cases and final assembly of watches of the Swatch Group Ltd concern are located at the ETA production facilities. ETA's main pride is its fully automated conveyors for the production of finished movements and watches. ETA keeps secret technologies and the secret of the assembly lines themselves for the production of Swiss movements and watches like the “apple of its eye.” This information is the main weapon of the Swatch Group Ltd holding company in the competition in the global watch market.

The assembly of Swiss watch movements begins with the manufacture of very small and complex parts - microscopic watch cogs, springs, axles and bearings for them, gears and worm pairs. For example, a workshop that produces axles for watch movements is a hall “stuffed” with the most advanced, fully automated equipment. Sterile cleanliness, more than five hundred machines are served by just a little more than fifty people in white coats, hats and protective bandages! In a week, such a team produces 14 million parts, consuming steel, brass, bronze and other materials with a total weight of 2.5 tons.

Impressive, right?

ETA's laboratory-grown quartz crystals are used to make quartz watch movements. The workshop for the production of quartz resonators is similar to an operating room - it also maintains the highest degree of sterility, uses special clothing for operating personnel, and uses multiple filtration of ventilation air. As in other workshops, there is extreme automation. Those who are at least a little familiar with radio electronics know that the frequency of the quartz resonator for a watch is 32768 Hz. Artificially grown quartz crystals are cut with a laser to achieve this frequency, and service personnel only monitor this process on monitor screens.

ETA owns several watch factories in Malaysia and Thailand, which produce mechanisms for local watch manufacturers. Such mechanisms are not labeled “Swiss Made”, although the requirements for the quality of mechanisms are very strict, as in other ETA factories. If you are lucky enough to buy a watch in Southeast Asia at a low price, you have a good chance of purchasing a watch with high-quality mechanics from ETA. But still, there are more chances to buy “consumer goods” - Asia, what can you get from them?

ETA has its finger on the pulse of the watch market, which allows it to expand its presence even into markets in countries initially controlled by competitors. As an example, we can cite the situation with the Japanese watch company Casio. ETA has awarded a multi-million dollar contract to Casio to supply Swiss watch movements to the Japanese watch manufacturer, despite the high tariffs imposed on watch companies promoting their products in the Japanese market. One can only wonder how such a lucrative order “failed” through the hands of the manufacturing companies Casio and Citizen, which produce watches with Japanese movements.

ETA products– Swiss watch movements mean reliability, durability, quality and strict control over the technology of manufacturing watch movements. The use of high-precision, fully automated lines for the production and assembly of Swiss watch movements allowed the ETA company to produce mechanisms for inexpensive and excellent quality watches, which are often equipped with replica watches of famous brands. Therefore, if you come across the line “Mechanism type: Swiss ETA movement” in the description of watch models, you should know that this is a watch with a movement of true Swiss quality and not at all expensive in price!

More detailed information about the ETA company and the Swiss watch movements it produces can be found in the Internet encyclopedia Wikipedia, for example.

Happy shopping!

The triumphant conquest of the market by quartz watches has begun December 25, 1969. On this day the company Seiko gave watch lovers around the world a gift: introduced a watch Quartz ASTRON, equipped with a quartz movement with a frequency of 8192 Hz. Note that the frequency of modern calibers is already 4 times higher - this increases accuracy, but the principle of their operation - replacing the anchor with a quartz generator, or “generation fork”, a tuning fork-shaped piece of quartz, which is exposed to electric current, remains the same. Whether the oscillations of the generator are transmitted to the mechanism that rotates the hands, or displayed on a crystal display is a matter of taste for the manufacturer. Both work great, and the hands or display need to be protected equally well. True, those with arrows are usually called quartz, and those with liquid crystals instead of arrows are called electronic. But this does not change the essence. You can also call them, as is common in the international market, “quartz watches with digital display.” By the way, the watch market grew with amazing rapidity after that day.

To describe all the types, properties and advantages of quartz watches, you will need not an article, but a small encyclopedia. We will not place complex and incomprehensible schemes here. Those who wish can do this on the all-knowing Internet. But we will consider the main qualities of “quartz” using the examples of the most famous ETA and Ronda calibers, and along the way we will destroy some myths.

Something common to all quartz watches

1. They are accurate. No doubt about it.
2. Does not require mechanical winding. Obviously.
3. They are difficult to break. They have fewer details. At least for that reason.
4. They are easier to repair (see point 3).
5. Quartz watches are easier to make shockproof - they do not have thin components and parts.
6. They are cheap... In principle, yes, but it depends.

Quartz calibers - and their properties

NORMFLATLINE Series

This series includes quartz movements consisting of both metal and synthetic parts, which significantly reduces their cost. All movements are gold plated and equipped with an Low Battery Indication (EOL) function. Both round mechanisms and rectangular and barrel-shaped ones.

TRENDLINE Series

This series includes economical quartz movements. All gold-plated movements are equipped with three hands and an Low Battery (EOL) function.

Series NORMLINE differs from the previous one only in that it is assembled in China. Much cheaper!

FASHIONLINE Series

This series features “disposable” quartz movements, almost entirely made of synthetic materials, which, if broken, cannot be repaired, but replaced. These are calibers with a wide range of functionality: from simple movements with three hands to chronographs with alarms.

Analog – ECOLINE series Made in China. The most inexpensive.

All of these ETA movements describe the properties of quartz calibers quite fully. Everything related to operating conditions, water protection, resistance to mechanical damage, etc. relates to the quality of the case.

However, using the example of quartz calibers Ronda One more trend can be said - unification. Ronda AG produces calibers for quartz pointer or analog watches. Among the brands that use these mechanisms there are many different companies. Unification significantly reduces the cost of repairs - the main purpose of unification is that parts of mechanisms of the same series fit together. For example, the mechanisms of the so-called “7 Series” - mechanisms 753 and 763 can easily “exchange” parts - they are almost identical. The 705, 715, 775, 785 movements are built on a common scheme with three hands and a calendar, and service centers and watchmakers have tables of interchangeability of Ronda parts.

In Japan companies Seiko, Casio, Citizen or Orient use calibers of their own production. Traditionally, Japanese “quartz” is considered better... and in vain. He is the same as the others. Both Swiss and Japanese and any other mechanism works perfectly. But let's note one thing - the Japanese nobly refused patent protection and made quartz watches the property of everyone. A chivalrous act.

"Arigato, Seiko!" If you buy a quartz watch, say these words, and it will never let you down!

(In-House movement) is, on the one hand, a marketing ploy that allows the manufacturer to set the price of a watch above its competitor only because its mechanism is “in-house production” and not purchased externally, for example, from ETA ( moreover, an ETA caliber can be better, more reliable and maintainable than a “manufactured” one). On the other hand, it is a magnet for watch lovers who are tired of the monotony of watch calibers. Well, in fact, either ETA, or Sellita, or the “modified” Valjoux 7750. And why then the transparent back cover?

But here's the problem. Manufacture movements immediately seriously increase the price of a watch. This applies not only to the luxury segment, but also to the most affordable Swiss made watches. For example, “their” mechanisms allowed Christopher Ward to significantly raise prices in 2014.

However, there are watches, moreover, from top brands, which have a “manufacture” on board and are not too expensive. Well, for Swiss watches. Because Swiss watches from popular brands, as a rule, are always expensive.

So, the first option is Alpina watches.

Alpina is one of the Swiss manufacturers that classify themselves as manufacturers that develop and produce their own calibers. The 44mm Startimer Pilot features an Alpina AL-710 movement. The retail price for the model with a steel case and a leather strap is $2,595.

If you want less sportiness and more classics, take a closer look at Alpina's sister company Frederique Constant.
Slimline Manufacture Moonphase. The 42 mm diameter case houses the automatic caliber FC-705 with 26 jewels and a power reserve of 42 hours. In steel and with a leather strap, such a watch will cost $3,695.

What else? Eg, JeanRichard, which also owns Girard-Perregaux, is also trying to raise the profile of its watches. And the easiest way to do this is to have your own caliber. The 1681 Ronde Small Seconds is housed in a 41mm case and houses the JR1050 automatic movement. With a slight movement of the hand, the in-house caliber raises the price of the watch to $5,300.

Yes, yes, yes, you say. For 5 grand bucks, is there something more status-worthy?

Yes, we answer. Rolex! Although small, only 36 mm in diameter, it is, nevertheless, a good old status Rolex. The Oyster Perpetual model with the in-house caliber 3130 will cost you $5,400.

And watches from another prestigious brand are even a little more expensive - Zenith. The Captain Elite Central Seconds watch, an excellent “suit watch” with a touch of sport in a 40 mm case, costs $5,600.

As you can see, in-house calibers significantly increase the cost of a watch. Whether it’s worth overpaying or sticking with the good old ETA is up to you to decide. In addition, you can look for an alternative from small watch manufacturers, including European ones. But that’s another story, and we mainly write about these “kids.”