Construction of a wooden roof on a brick house. Gable roof of a house: step-by-step DIY construction

The most popular designs of access devices at present are gates (another name for them is sliding or sliding). Sliding doors, for all their advantages, have one drawback - to open them, the door leaf needs a place located along a wall or fence. If there is no such place (for example, a gate in a garage, which is located in a row of similar structures in the CAS), then all that remains is to use a swing structure.

Swing gate design

The design of swing gates is very simple and, like all simple things, reliable. What is she? Two pillars at the edges of the doorway on which the doors are attached. The doors are frames made of profiled metal with a certain filling. That's the whole structure.

• the doors should open inward and outward, easily and silently;
• there shouldn't be any blowing at the door. They must maintain the set temperature inside the room, regardless of the outside temperature;
• the doors should resist any intruder, and should easily swing open for the owner after lightly pressing the button on the key fob;
• the appearance of the doors should “please the eye” of the owner and cause healthy envy among neighbors.

Let's consider one of the above requirements: maintaining the set temperature inside the room, regardless of the outside temperature. This requirement applies to doors in refrigeration rooms, retail, warehouse and other premises. This is achieved by using insulation to fill the frame of the gate leaf. The following materials can be used as insulation: sandwich panels, mineral wool and other materials. Consider the use of sandwich panels.

Installation diagram for swing gates with sandwich panels.

Sandwich panels in swing gates.

Gate frames with sandwich panels are usually made of metal: aluminum or galvanized steel with a polymer coating. For grocery refrigerators, they are often made of durable PVC. An aluminum profile is mounted around the perimeter of the frame. To prevent corrosion, the door leaf is often protected with polymer. Air exchange is limited by sealing with silicone material.

The inside of the doors is filled with compressed polystyrene foam. Transparent polycarbonate windows are installed in their upper part, and the lower part is reinforced with hard polyethylene to protect against impacts.

To reduce heat loss, a wicket door is installed in the gate.

It is no secret that for its owner a car is not only a means of transportation, but also a sign of status, a favorite hobby and practically a member of the family. And therefore, great attention is paid to caring for his “place of residence,” that is, the garage.

In addition, not every car owner can afford to equip a workshop and a garage separately, and therefore the garage performs both functions at once.

Car box

The operating conditions of a garage are noticeably different from residential premises. This is due to the characteristics of its main inhabitant – the car.

• Temperature conditions - the car does not tolerate temperature changes well. Staying in a warm room at +20 C, and then moving it to cold temperatures from -5 C, has an extremely negative effect on the condition of the car. Therefore, despite severe frosts, car owners prefer to keep their cars outside. As a result, the best mode for boxing is a stable temperature of about +5–+7 C. Garage doors made of sandwich panels and wall insulation perfectly solve this issue.
• Fire safety is the second most important requirement, since gasoline, engine oil, parts and equipment are usually stored in the box, which together pose a great fire risk. In this regard, the insulation and finishing of the garage must be carried out with non-combustible materials. SIP panels are perfect for this role. The photo shows a garage door made of sandwich panels.

Garage door classification

Since the design of the boxes can differ noticeably from each other - in volume, type of extension, placement, and so on, many ways to close the latter have been created. According to the opening method, they are classified as follows.

• Hinged - the most popular classic design of two doors. The reason for their prevalence is simple: any beginner who has the skills to work with a welding machine can make them with their own hands according to a drawing. They are usually made of steel, as they must have good mechanical strength and resist burglary, but sandwich panels, aluminum, and wood can also be used.

• Sliding - the door leaf moves to the side, like a wardrobe. It’s a rather complicated solution to do it yourself, so it’s recommended to purchase this option ready-made. Sliding gates made of sandwich panels will provide not only tight, reliable closure, but also excellent thermal insulation. The photo shows a sample.
• Sectional - consist of fragments that, when the sash is opened, are refracted at an angle and rise to the ceiling. Sandwich panels for this design are the best option.
• Lifting and rotating - they are a solid canvas that moves in a vertical position.
• Roller shutters are a very common solution as they take up minimal space. When open, the sash is rolled up in a box. However, it is almost impossible to insulate such a structure.

Characteristics of sandwich panels

The product is a composition of a layer of insulation and two layers of facing material and has several important advantages, which makes it recommended for cladding swing or sliding doors.

For garage doors, slabs are used, where mineral wool - basalt or glass - is used as a filler, and galvanized painted steel acts as the outer layers.

• Thermal insulation - for a garage, it is not so much the high temperature that is important, but rather its stable value, that is, independence from outside weather conditions. The thermal insulation properties of mineral wool, at its affordable cost, are very high.
• Fire safety - mineral wool is distinguished by another extremely important quality for a garage - non-flammability. It is recommended to make gates made from sandwich panels using glass wool, as it is resistant to moisture and has a higher density.

Expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam are also excellent heat insulators; you should choose only special brands - self-extinguishing ones. The rest of their modifications are flammable and emit toxic substances when burned.

• Strength – SIP panels themselves, even with a steel outer layer, cannot provide a high level of security: the thickness of the steel does not exceed 0.8 mm. Therefore, if there is a danger of break-in, it is advisable to strengthen the doors.

Swing gates made of sandwich panels: assembly

For manufacturing you will need a galvanized steel profile, a sandwich panel with a steel coating, an angle grinder, a welding machine, steel corners - optional, but with their help it is much easier to form a right angle, and a drawing with the indicated dimensions. Installation can be done by hand. The photo shows the working moment of assembly.

1. The profile is cut according to the dimensions of the future swing gates.
2. A frame is welded from a 60*30 profile, and the welding seams are cleaned.
3. The frame for both sashes is made separately according to the drawing. A 60*30 profile is used for the sash frame, and 40*20 for internal guides. It is imperative to make sure that the sash is inserted into the frame with the necessary clearance for opening.
4. The plate is secured to the frame with long self-tapping screws.
5. The hinges are welded and the gate is installed. It is recommended to remove the packaging material from the panels only after installation has been completed.

In the video, the process of installing swing gates made of sandwich panels is presented in more detail.

It is best to make sectional garage doors with your own hands, since you should never forget about the old proverb: if you need quality work, you need to do it yourself. At the moment, many country developers prefer to carry out all work related to their own home personally.

Often, a suburban area includes not only a house, but also utility rooms, for example, a garage along with a bathhouse, storage room or other buildings of a purely service nature. If we talk about the garage as a building structure, then it is worth noting that in recent years the principle of its construction has changed a lot. In the past, we could have been talking about a simple box, the main purpose of which was to protect vehicles from the weather and thefts. Now we are often talking about a small house, provided with all the comfort requirements for a car owner.

The process of development of garage doors also played a significant role, since now a lot of alternative options are being produced to replace bulky options, among which are:

• retractable view,
• sectional,
• roller shutter,
• lift-and-swivel,
• other rare species.

Each of these options has sufficient indicators of reliability, aesthetics and efficiency, and in addition, they are simple enough that you can create homemade gates and do not require much space.

If we look at gates as a separate type of product, then the most popular are sectional garage doors, because to this day they occupy a leading position in sales.

Sandwich panel construction

Creating sectional doors with your own hands is not such a difficult task, since the element itself has a very simple design. It consists of sandwich panels that are connected using hinges and moved using a cable, roller and drum. Such a system can move the structure to the ceiling and down, being mounted on guides.

Sandwich panels are manufactured in a factory, and they consist of sheets of galvanized iron, the internal space of which is filled with a sealant. We can talk about polyester or polyurethane. When the gate is closed, the panels themselves also have no contact points, since the gaps are completely covered with cork sheets.

How to make a gate yourself?

To make a garage door you will need: a screwdriver, a tape measure, drills, a hammer drill, a level.

The market value of sectional doors is very high, so quite often craftsmen try to create homemade versions in a personal workshop.

Of course, in practice it turns out that manufacturing parts along with assemblies for gates of this type is a complex and expensive task, but if you use ready-made ones, the craftsman will have to spend much less time.

In this matter, special attention should be paid to the importance of technology, since most often homemade gates are of poor quality, and if the master manages to make such a product work, there will always be a danger that they will fall. In this case, you can damage the car or get hurt yourself.

Tools required for the work:

• screwdriver;
• yardstick;
• drills with pobeditovy nozzle;
• perforator;
• installation tool;
• level.

The simplest option is to buy ready-made gates.

There is also a slightly more logical option - buying a ready-made disassembled product and installing sectional doors yourself. There are no particular difficulties in this task, since in this case the buyer receives an enlarged construction set. Of course, the number of parts here will be quite considerable, so it will take a lot of time to assemble the structure.

In this case, first, vertical and horizontal guides are installed, which are responsible for the movement of the sections. After this, each section is fastened together using hinges. The top panel is laid out last. It should ensure a secure fit to the strip. After this, control mechanisms and all necessary accessories are installed: locks, handles and others.

At the same time, labor costs will be considerable, since accuracy and correctness of assembly are the key to many years of reliable service. True, in almost every product, manufacturers take care to provide accurate diagrams, thanks to which the installation of sectional doors turns into an easy task.

Installation and assembly of finished gates

So, as already mentioned, homemade gates are not always the best option, since they are associated with high labor costs and low quality. But if it is possible to buy a disassembled product, you will still be able to work on it yourself.

First of all, the technician needs to clean the opening in which the installation is planned. If it has weak and thin walls, you need to install metal structures, after which calculations are made along with markings. In most cases, we will talk about places where load-bearing structures are attached and where it is planned to install various types of fixation profiles.

Particular attention should be paid to the fact that the automatic sectional doors do not allow even a tiny distortion. Therefore, precise alignment of racks and profiles on the plane, especially vertically, as well as reliable fastening of each part are required. Especially carefully and efficiently it is necessary to align the load-bearing elements. Wooden pegs or polyurethane foam are not allowed here - only metal linings, which are prepared in advance, and in addition, they are prepared with completely different thicknesses.

After installing the load-bearing parts and their reliable fastening, the installation of panels begins, which are laid in the lower part. The sections need to be connected using hinges, after which the top panel is installed, which must be adjacent to the strips. For this purpose, the use of upper brackets is required. And then, before installing sectional doors, you need to think about the control mechanism with various kinds of accessories. It is worth trying to properly fix the springs that will balance the structure, and the cables, which should always be tensioned. Next, the electric motor and the limiter are mounted. And when the entire structure has already been fully adjusted, it is checked. To do this, the gate just needs to be opened and closed a couple of times.

If the results do not require significant correction, the fastening units are re-tightened and each part is checked individually, which is especially important in the case of load-bearing structures.

It will be much easier to do all this if you use a special level. This is exactly how sectional garage doors are installed and assembled. This requires quite a lot of time, but at the same time the homeowner gets the opportunity to fully enjoy the process, although one assistant will still be extremely useful.

And with the money saved, it is quite possible to decorate the facade. For example, you can opt not for the usual smooth version of the sections; instead, they can be paneled or wavy. Or the design may have decorative windows, which will not only make it more original, but also provide additional lighting during daylight hours. And knowing the entire design and installation features of the gate, the owner will be able to independently repair and maintain them practically without outside help, although this is the advantage of mainly home-made options.

If you have now come close to the issue of choosing the design of the rafter system, the first thing you need to decide is how exactly you will transfer the load from the roof to the house. For example, in the classic design of a rafter system, the rafters are evenly supported by their ends on the walls or the mauerlat, along the entire perimeter or on both sides, depending on the shape of the slopes. But often today, rafters are attached directly to the attic floor beams, and not to the mauerlat, and this technology has its own valuable advantages.

We will now tell you how to correctly install roof rafters on floor beams, what technical solutions exist and how to make such fastening units.

Of course, building a roof with a Mauerlat is more understandable and logical, because This method has been practiced for a very long time and has been studied, but you need to study the support of rafters on beams, and you will not find as much useful information as our website provides anywhere.

But when is such a rafter system needed and why such difficulties, you ask? Look, the approach is indispensable when:

• the construction site has rather fragile walls and it is difficult to lay the mauerlat on them;
• the roof of an old house is being rebuilt, but the bench is already old;
• the rafter system is quite complex and it requires intermediate supports, but there are none inside the house;
• for someone who is building a house, this method in itself seems more acceptable.

And it’s hard to imagine a real mansard roof without supporting the rafters directly on the beams outside the walls:

Convinced? Believe me, this technology has as many advantages as the classic one.

How to create a reliable foundation for rafters?

The first step you need to take is to build a solid foundation for these rafters. For example, if the floor beams do not have any support (at least in the form of an intermediate wall of the house), then the trusses on it need to be organized only according to the hanging principle. If there is support, the rafters can be safely supported directly on the beam without any auxiliary elements.

In simple terms, if the beam in the attic floor is installed reliably and has its own supports, then rafters can be installed on it, and if all this is missing, then it makes sense to firmly connect the rafters to the beams themselves and hang them as a single system. Otherwise, before building the roof, you need to support the beams from inside the room, for which there are three different construction methods:

• The most simple a classic support consists of a tie, one support beam and struts. The puff is suspended in the middle. Such suspension systems are used today most often for large spans.
• Double the support consists of a tie, hangers, two struts and a crossbar, which serves as a spacer between the boards.
• There is even triple support, which is a separate three suspension systems, or one double suspension system and one simple one. This is already a complex rafter system.

This is what such systems look like:

Ideally, you can also calculate such beams for deflection and tension, to what extent they are ready to support the entire roof. There are special online calculators and formulas for this, although it will also be enough to invite an experienced carpenter for your own peace of mind.

Methods for connecting rafters to beams

So you have two main options:

1. First install the floor beams, mounting them into the walls, thereby creating a layered rafter system.
2. Assemble the rafter trusses on the ground and lift them to the roof ready-made, while the bottom tightening of the trusses will simultaneously serve as a support-beam for the future attic floor.

Each of these methods has its pros and cons, but the methods of fastening are different - for trusses it is usually fastened with metal or wooden plates, and for assembly on the roof - chipping and tenoning.

Hanging rafters: tie and beam in one role

If we are talking about a small construction project, such as a garage, a bathhouse or a change house, then it is enough to simply make roof trusses on the ground, and only then lift them onto the walls of the building, securing them to special Mauerlat pins. Here, the floor beams are an integral part of the trusses themselves, and this is the case when the tie in the truss also serves as a support for the attic floor.

Here's how it works in practice:

But about the options when the rafters rest on the floor beams, and do not create a single system with them, we will now look in more detail.

Layered rafters: support on beams at several points

Here is a modern master class in building a classic attic roof, in which the rafters are supported on floor beams directly on the roof, rather than building trusses on the ground:

Here, the floor beams are no longer part of a single rafter truss, but an independent element on which the entire rafter system rests. Moreover, the support occurs not only on the sides of the beam, but along its entire length.

How to install rafter legs on floor beams?

Once the floor beams are ready for the rafters to be installed on them, proceed to fabricate the rest of the structure and connect the rafters to the beams.

To connect the rafter leg to the beam, its end is cut at the desired angle, or a more complex cut into tenons is made. Let's look at both of these options.

Connection of rafters with beams without cutting

You can do without cutting if you use fasteners later - this is a normal solution. So, to make a simple cut on the rafters, make a template:

• Step 1: Take a building square and place it on the board.
• Step 2: Mark the cut location at the top of the rafter.
• Step 3: Using a wood protractor, draw a line parallel to the first saw across the rafter. This line will help you determine the line from the weight on the edge of the building.

Here's what it looks like in practice:

Making such rafters is much easier than for cutting. The main thing is to correctly determine the angle of the roof and the correct location for the future cut:

As a result, in real life such a design looks like this on a gable roof:

Types of cutting a rafter leg into a floor beam

The mounting configuration itself depends more on the angle of inclination of the slope. For example, for a roof with steep slopes, where the snow load is small, you can use a single-tooth mount. With the single tooth method, additional tenons are often made to help the rafters not move under loads. And for such a spike you will already need a nest in the beam.

But, you probably know that any such places can weaken the beam, and therefore their depth should be no more than 1/4 the thickness of the beam and no closer than 20 cm from the edge of the beam (to avoid chipping).

But if you have a roof with a slope of less than 35 degrees, then it makes sense to use a double tooth, because such fastening allows you to achieve high strength of the joints. As in the previous version, you can add two spikes.

With this method, each tooth can have the same or different depth. For example, you can cut the first tooth only 1/3 of the thickness of the support beam, and the second - half:

The bottom line is that two rafter legs in a structure supported by beams are secured with a tie. But, if the ends of these legs slide, then the integrity of the tightening will be quickly compromised. To prevent such sliding, it is necessary to insert, or rather, cut into, the rafter leg into the very tightening with the help of a tooth - with or without a spike.

In the process of cutting the rafters into the end of the tie, you need to move the tooth as far as possible. If you need to strengthen the fastening of such rafters, then use a double tooth. Another point: the teeth themselves can be of different sizes.

And finally, it is advisable to fasten the end of the rafter legs with twisted wire so that the wind cannot tear off such a roof. As a wire, it is better to take galvanized wire, and fasten it with one end to the rafter leg, and the other to a crutch, which is first laid in the masonry of the wall at a distance of 30-35 cm from the top edge.

Here is a good example of a neat cut-in rafter, which at the same time serves as a floor beam already in a hipped roof:

Metal fasteners for such a unit are still necessary, because the notch itself cannot support the rafter legs under load.

Types of fasteners for nodal connections with a beam

Let's look at ways to connect the rafters to the floor beam:

One of the most reliable is a bolted connection, which uses a set of bolt, nut and washer. So, do everything step by step:

• Step 1. At the protruding end of the beam on its back side, make a triangular cutout so that its hypotenuse is at an angle the same as the angle of the rafters.
• Step 2. Saw the lower part of the rafter leg at the same angle.
• Step 3. Install the rafters directly onto the beam and secure with nails.
• Step 4: Now shoot a through hole for the bolt.
• Step 5. Place the bolt and secure the assembly with a nut.

Another quite acceptable option is to secure the rafter and beam with special metal fasteners:

And here is an example of making wooden fasteners for the same unit:

If possible, secure such rafters to the beams with forged wire on a special anchor that is mounted into the wall.

Additional “chair” structure for supporting rafters on beams

Sometimes installing rafters on floor beams is a rather complicated undertaking, in which the beams themselves serve 100% as support for the entire roof, and it is important to do all this as competently as possible.

In order for the rafter itself to be sufficiently strong and reliable in practice, the so-called “chair” is used as supporting elements. These are the rafter parts that connect all the elements, and in cross-section it really all looks like four legs of a stool:

Essentially, the “chair” is the struts that support the girder to its full height. Those. such a “chair” usually contains vertical posts, inclined posts and short struts. With its lower end of the stand, the chair is cut into the lower chord of the rafter system or lies perpendicular, or immediately into the floor beams. There are also different types of such chairs, depending on whether they rest on purlins or directly on the rafters.

Here's a good example from this series:

But this is an example of an unusual design of a rafter system, in which the rafters themselves rest on the floor beams both along and across, and the structure of the so-called support chairs is clearly visible:

Combined system: alternating supported rafters

Today, this version of the roof is also practiced, which consists of several especially strong trusses located at a distance of 3-5 meters from each other, and the gap between them is filled with construction pairs.

In simple terms, several powerful main trusses, two or three, are installed on the roof, and they support the entire run. And already in the space between the main trusses, ordinary rafters rest on such purlins, according to a simpler scheme.

Those. here, not all rafters rest on the floor beams, but only some, and the rest rest on the mauerlat. This way the entire load is perfectly distributed! And the concept of such a system is simple: the main trusses are made according to the hanging rafters scheme, and the secondary rafter legs are made according to the layered principle, relying only on the beam:

In fact, the whole secret of such a combined system is that here the layered rafters are laid directly on the triangular hinged arches. In this cunning way, bending stresses completely disappear from hanging rafters, and only tensile stresses remain. And this suggests that here it is possible to significantly reduce the cross-section of the rafter elements. In other words – save money!

As you probably already guessed, in your case, the method of supporting the rafters on the floor beams will depend on what kind of object you are building: a garage, a bathhouse, a country house or an entire country complex. In any case, all these methods have been tested, are actively used in practice today and deserve attention no less than the more familiar use of the classic Mauerlat.

We have already talked about the hip roof on the site. There the roof structure was described with the rafters resting on the mauerlat. After publishing the article, I received many requests to show how to make a hip roof with rafters supported on floor beams, and also to answer the question whether it is possible to make a hip roof with different slope angles.

Thus, I wanted to “kill two birds with one stone” with one example. Now we will look at the design of a hip roof with the rafters supported on the floor beams and with different slope angles.

So, let's say we have a house box of 8.4x10.8 meters.

STEP 1: Install the Mauerlat (see Fig. 1):

Picture 1

STEP 2: We install long floor beams with a section of 100x200 cm in increments of 0.6 meters (see Fig. 2). I won't dwell on it any further.

Figure 2

The very first to install are the beams that run strictly in the middle of the house. We will be guided by them when installing the ridge beam. Then we put the rest with a certain step. For example, we have a step of 0.6 meters, but we see that there are 0.9 meters left to the wall, and another beam could fit, but it doesn’t. We leave this span specifically for “removals”. Its width should not be less than 80-100 cm.

STEP 3: We install the stem. Their pitch is determined when calculating the rafters, about which a little later (see Fig. 3):

Figure 3

For now we are installing only the stems corresponding to the length of the ridge, which will be equal to 5 meters. Our ridge length is greater than the difference between the length and width of the house, which is 2.4 meters. What does this lead to? This leads to the fact that the corner rafter will not be located at an angle of 45° in plan (in the top view), and the angle of inclination of the slopes and hips will be different. The slopes will have a gentler slope.

It is enough to secure the stem on the Mauerlat with nails. We attach them to a long floor beam, for example, like this (Fig. 4):

Figure 4

There is no need to make any cuts in this node. Any cut will weaken the floor beam. Here we use two LK type metal rafter fasteners on the sides and one large nail (250 mm) driven through the beam into the end of the extension. We hammer in the nail very last, when the stem is already fastened to the Mauerlat.

STEP 4: Install the ridge beam (see Fig. 5):

Figure 5

All elements of this structure except the struts are made of 100x150 mm timber. Struts made of boards 50x150 mm. The angle between them and the ceiling is at least 45°. We see that under the outer posts there are beams resting directly on five floor beams. We do this to distribute the load. Also, to reduce the load on the floor beams and transfer part of it to the load-bearing partition, struts were installed.

We determine the installation height of the ridge beam and its length for our home ourselves, making a preliminary sketch on paper.

STEP 5: We manufacture and install rafters.

First of all, we make a template for the rafters. To do this, take a board of the required cross-section that is suitable in length, apply it as shown in Figure 6 and make markings using a small level (blue line):

Figure 6

The height of the block that we placed on the stem to mark the lower cut is equal to the depth of the upper cut. We made it 5 cm.

Using the resulting template, we make all the rafters of the slopes, resting on the ridge beam, and secure them (see Fig. 7):

Figure 7

In such structures, where the rafters are supported not by long floor beams, but by short extensions, we always place small supports under the rafters above the mauerlat, forming a kind of small triangle and relieving the attachment point of the extension to the beam (see Fig. 8):

Figure 8

There is no need to bring these supports further inside the roof, much less place them at the junction of the extension with the beam. Most of the load from the roof is transmitted through them (this can be seen in the calculation program) and the floor beam may simply not withstand it.

Now a little about calculations. When choosing the section of rafters for a given roof, we calculate only one rafter - this is the slope rafter. It is the longest here and its angle of inclination is less than the angle of inclination of the hip rafters (explanation - we call a roof slope in the shape of a trapezoid a slope, a hip - a roof slope in the shape of a triangle). Calculations are made in the “Sling.3” tab. Example results in Figure 9:

Figure 9

Yes, I forgot to say. Who has already downloaded this calculation program from my website before December 1, 2013? There is no “Sling.3” tab. To download the updated version of the program, go to the article again at the link:

This article has also been slightly adjusted thanks to feedback from some readers, for which special thanks to them.

STEP 6: We add an extension and attach wind boards (see Fig. 10). We add enough stems to leave room for attaching the corner stem. For now, we simply sew the wind boards at the corners together, controlling their straightness. Check visually to see if the corners are sagging. If so, place temporary supports under them directly from the ground. After installing the corner extensions, we remove these supports.

Figure 10

STEP 7: We mark and install corner offsets.

First we need to pull the string along the top of the floor beams, as shown in Fig. 11

Figure 11

Now we take a beam of suitable length (the cross-section is the same as for all stems) and place it on top of the corner so that the lace is in the middle of it. From below on this beam we mark the cut lines with a pencil. (see Fig. 12):

Figure 12

We remove the lace and install the timber sawn along the marked lines (see Fig. 13):

Figure 13

We attach the corner extension to the Mauerlat using two roofing corners. We fasten it to the floor beam with a 135° angle and a large nail (250-300 mm). If necessary, bend the 135° corner with a hammer.

This way we install all four corner offsets.

STEP 8: We manufacture and install corner rafters.

The hip roof that I described earlier had the same angles of slope and hips. Here these angles are different and therefore the corner rafter will have its own characteristics. We also make it from two boards of the same section as the rafters. But we sew these boards together not quite usually. One will be slightly lower than the other (about 1 cm, depending on the difference in the angles of the slopes and hips).

So, first of all, we pull 3 laces on each side of the roof. Two along the corner rafters, one along the middle hip rafter (see Fig. 14):

We measure the angle between the lace and the corner stem - the bottom cut. Let's call it “α” (see Fig. 15):

Figure 15

We also mark point “B”

We calculate the angle of the upper cut β = 90°- α

In our example α = 22° and β = 68°.

Now we take a small piece of board with the cross-section of the rafters and saw one end on it at an angle β. We apply the resulting blank to the ridge, combining one edge with the lace, as shown in Fig. 16:

Figure 16

A line was drawn on the workpiece parallel to the side plane of the adjacent rafter of the slope. We will make another cut using it and get a template for the top cut of our corner rafter.

Also, when we apply the workpiece, we need to mark point “A” on the rafters of the slope (see Fig. 17):

Figure 17

Now we make the first half of the corner rafter. To do this, take a board of suitable length. If one board is missing, we sew two boards together. You can sew it temporarily by cutting an inch about a meter long onto self-tapping screws. We make the top cut according to the template. We measure the distance between points “A” and “B”. We transfer it to the rafter and make the bottom cut at an angle “α”.

We install the resulting rafter and secure it (see Fig. 18):

Figure 18

Most likely, due to its length, the first half of the corner rafter will sag. You need to place a temporary stand under it approximately in the middle. It is not shown in my drawings.

Now we make the second half of the corner rafter. To do this, measure the size between points “C” and “D” (see Fig. 19):

Figure 19

We take a board of suitable length, make the top cut at an angle β, measure the distance “S-D”, make the bottom cut at an angle α. We install the second half of the corner rafter and sew it to the first with nails (100 mm). We drive the nails at intervals of approximately 40-50 cm. The result is shown in Fig. 20:

Figure 20

The upper end of the second half of the corner rafter needs to be sawed down again. We do this with a chainsaw right on the spot (Fig. 21):

Figure 21

In the same way, we manufacture and install the three remaining corner rafters.

STEP 9: We install racks under the corner rafters. First of all, it is imperative to install a stand resting on the junction of the corner extension with the floor beam (see Fig. 22):

Figure 22

If the length of the span covered by the corner rafter (its horizontal projection) is more than 7.5 meters, we install more racks at a distance of approximately ¼ of the span from the top point of the corner rafter. If the span is more than 9 meters, add racks in the middle of the corner rafter. In our example, this span is 5.2 meters.

STEP 10: We install two central hip rafters. At the beginning of the 8th step, we already pulled the laces to measure them.

We make the rafters in this way - we measure the angle of the lower gash “γ” with a small tool, calculate the angle of the upper gash “δ”:

δ = 90° - γ

We measure the distance between the points “K-L” and make a rafter along it. We file the ends at the angles we have determined. After this, the upper end needs to be filed down (sharpened) again, taking into account the angle “φ”, which we also measure using a small tool (see Fig. 23):

Figure 23

STEP 11: Add offset to the corners. We make the outermost extensions, which do not reach the mauerlat, lightweight, from a 50x200 mm board (see Fig. 24):

Figure 24

STEP 12: We install spigots. I described in detail how to make spigots in the first article about. Here the principle is absolutely the same, so I will not repeat it (see Fig. 25):

Figure 25

We attach the corner rafters to the corner rafters using a 135° metal corner, bending it if necessary.

After installing all the frames, all we have to do is hem the cornices from below and make the sheathing. We have already talked about this many times.