Plumbing under control or do-it-yourself toilet installation. How to install a toilet with your own hands: installation steps and useful tips Installing a toilet with your own hands in a private house

During construction, repair, and simply replacing plumbing, the question of how to properly install a toilet in a private house becomes a priority. Incorrect actions can lead to a malfunction in the sewerage system. Emergencies are inevitable if the installation of a toilet bowl in a private house is carried out without complying with the rules. The information given in the article on how to properly install a toilet in a private house will help to avoid mistakes when solving the problem. Of course, a plumber will deal with the problem quickly and better. Nose self-installation of a toilet bowl in a private house will be more profitable.

Before installing a toilet in a private home, a number of preliminary steps are performed. And the first on this list is the floor plan. You can not put a toilet in a private room without a layout. For the scheme you will need:

accurate measurements between locations;
plumbing dimensions;
type of installed equipment.

According to plumbing standards, the distance between the wall and the device should not be less than 20 - 25 cm. The free space between the plumbing and another object is 65 cm.

Choice

The solution to the question - how to install a toilet in a private house - is impossible without relying on parameters common to all models. The main selection criterion is the method of attachment and the type of drain. When replacing equipment, preference is given to a product with the same type of drain and method of attachment. The entire segment is divided into 6 types:

For cottages - a bowl without a tank and fasteners, fixed with ordinary bolts. (A necessary accessory if a drain pit is built in a private house).
Compact floor toilet - consists of two interchangeable elements. Fixed with special fasteners included in the kit.
Monoblock floor - one-piece design. Disadvantage: in the event of a breakdown of one element, a complete replacement is required.
Attached - with a tank recessed into the wall.
Suspended - wall installation with complex installation of the holding frame and flushing mechanism.

The second in terms of characteristics is the direction of release. The term hides the method of connection to the sewer pipe. There are three grades in the group:

The vertical outlet of the toilet bowl means that the pipe located under the floor is led to the neck inside the product.
The oblique outlet of the toilet bowl is a connection at an angle of 45 degrees.
The horizontal scheme involves the formation of a connecting node by cutting into the back wall of the bathroom.

It becomes obvious that in the process of installing a toilet bowl with your own hands, the design model plays a major role.

Dismantling

The next stage is the dismantling of the old equipment.

Required Tools

Before starting the removal operation, check that you have the necessary tools. The minimum set includes:

perforator,
drill,
a set of keys (adjustable - without fail!),
fum tape,
silicone sealant,
roulette,
building level.

Steps

Step 1. Turn off the water supply, drain the tank, drain the drain elbow.

Step 2 Remove the drain hose.

Step 3. Remove fasteners.

Step 4. Clean up the joint.

Step 5. Remove the bowl, plug the hole with a lid or rags.

Sewer pipes made of cast iron, as a rule, were treated with a cement mixture. It will be easier to break the layer by drilling it in diameter.

The sequence of work during the installation of equipment directly depends on the type of outlet direction. But there are mandatory items for all types, except for complex mortise models. The instruction looks like this:

Temporary installation of a toilet with a corrugation to outline the place. (Retracts to the side during drilling).
Drilling required holes.
Driving in dowels with the appropriate diameter.
Fixing the toilet (pre-install the toilet permanently) and connection to the sewer. To do this, press the pipe with a seal firmly against the sewer pipe.
Assembly and installation of a drain tank.
Connecting a hose to a draw-off point.
Checking the operation of the flushing mechanism and the tightness of the joints.

Hidden cistern

Such installations are a new word in plumbing design. Modern technologies offer two options: suspended or floor. Installation of a wall-hung toilet is divided into two stages, one of which is associated with the installation of the bowl, the second is devoted to the flush tank.

First stage. This is where markup matters a lot. With the help of the building level, the main lines are drawn vertically and horizontally. Next, the suspension points are marked. Drill holes for anchors. The tank is hung on the brackets and the water supply is connected. The sewer outlet is tightened with a plastic clamp and lubricated with silicone.

The second stage begins with the assembly of the frame that covers the suspended part. The bezel drawing is attached to the product and you just need to follow the manufacturer's instructions. The only thing worth noting, in addition, the distance between the module and the wall surface should not be more than 200 mm. Otherwise, there will be no reliable adhesion to the surface.

The built-in modules are intended only for mounting on load-bearing walls.

Connecting elements

There are several ways to connect.

Branch pipes, bends are indispensable when working with oblique bends. It is considered a practical and durable option.

The fan pipe is a guarantee of reliable operation of the water seal. They are used to protect against the formation of air cushions in pipes. This point is relevant in the presence of a large number of water points. An analogue is a pipe with a check valve, made in the form of an integral mechanism.

The diameters of the pipe and the drain outlet must be the same size.

Eccentrics are successfully used - connecting cuffs with an offset axis. Plastic or corrugated eccentrics are a universal device for non-standard situations. Another plus of such a coupling is the ability to insert directly into the sewer socket without an adapter.

Corrugation is suitable for difficult conditions. Where the discrepancy in the corners is more than 90 degrees, a corrugated cuff is indispensable.

Installation on a wooden floor

The loose wood structure is subject to risks associated with a low level of moisture resistance of the material. The constant dampness inherent in bathrooms leads to the appearance of fungal mold. This is the main reason for the destruction of the floor and the displacement of sewer fittings. If it is not possible to pour a concrete floor, it is recommended to use one of two options.

Substrate

At present, the use of substrates has practically ceased. The use of taffeta is justified and expedient only in old buildings.

For a strong fixing of plumbing, self-tapping screws are screwed into the support logs that have been connected for this purpose. Taffeta is superimposed on top - a stand made of a piece of timber of at least 30 mm.

To protect the wood from moisture, the stand is impregnated with drying oil and an antiseptic.

The surface of the taffeta and the base of the toilet bowl is covered with a layer of silicone.

Additionally, if the interior design allows, cover the floor with decorative tiles. As for linoleum, there is no unequivocal opinion here. The only thing that can be noted: only PVC-based material is suitable for the toilet.

Glue

Alternative and controversial method. However, in the absence of a better, it is quite acceptable. The technology is simple and does not require drilling holes. The bowl is sealed with a compound known as liquid nails applied to a piece of wood or rubber. The perimeter gasket itself is nailed to the floor. The epoxy composition gives a good result.

In 1884 UNITAS sanitary ware won first prize at the International Exhibition in London. Since then, it is difficult to imagine an apartment, house or public place without this device.

With its installation, if desired, anyone can handle it on their own. To install a toilet in a country private house, you need to understand how the product and sewerage are arranged, and fully follow the instructions for work.

Structural elements

Despite the wide variety of modern plumbing, all toilets have almost the same components:

bowl;
a toilet seat, or a seat with a lid;
cistern.

The bowl is the main element. Its shape determines how hygienic the use of the object and flushing will be. There are several varieties, each of which has its own characteristics:

poppet- an outdated form of construction, is a flat platform or "shelf". Its main drawback is unhygienic, since all waste remains on the surface until it is washed away. In addition, water constantly accumulates there, which contributes to the deposition of limescale and rust on the walls.
The only plus is the almost complete absence of splashes and splashes when rinsing.
funnel-shaped- the funnel in the center of the bowl helps to instantly flush everything that gets inside, making the use of this type of toilet bowl very hygienic. However, it is inconvenient in that splashes are formed when draining. In recent years, manufacturers have been designing models with less water intake in the water seal.
Kozyrkovaya- the most popular model. With a special ledge that prevents splashing and a slope that facilitates quick emptying of the contents and cleaning of the walls, this design is highly economical in use and hygienic.

The toilet seat must be selected in accordance with the shape and size of the toilet bowl. It is made from any materials: plastic, wood, duroplast and even fabric. Seats can be very simple or supplemented with special shock absorbers, designs for people with disabilities, a child seat. The main thing in their selection is personal taste, as well as hygiene, comfort and practicality.

A flush tank is necessary in order to flush the entire contents of the toilet and keep it clean. It can be cast iron or ceramic, plastic or stainless steel.

The main details of the tank:

rubber pear;
valve;
metal traction;
plastic float.

When draining, the pear rises, releasing water. When the water leaves, the pear falls into place and closes the drain hole.

Required Tools

Before starting installation, you need to carry out all the preliminary work and select tools and materials in advance.

For installation you will need:

toilet of the selected design;
hammer drill;
screwdriver;
set of wrenches;
a hammer;
screws;
rubber gaskets;
dowels;
pipes for connection with sewerage: plastic, fan or corrugated;
plumbing silicone grease.

In addition to these tools, you may need:

pencil for marking the place;
special fastening board - taffeta, especially for installation on an old wooden floor;
if the toilet will sit on the glue, then you need epoxy glue;
emery for grinding the surface;
for final processing, red lead and tow are needed.

Preparatory work

To know what type of toilet to choose, how to fix it and connect it to the sewer, you need to determine the type of installation of sewer drain pipes:

Vertical type implies a vertical pipe extending into the floor. This is an outdated design, used most often in old houses.
At horizontal outlet pipes are parallel to the floor. This is the most common way of laying sewer pipes now.

Turn off all appliances: washing machine, dishwasher, boiler.
Turn off the water by closing the main valve.
If necessary, dismantle the old toilet bowl.
Using a pencil or marker, mark the installation site of the structure, all communications.

Installation on a wooden floor

Having marked the place of installation of the toilet bowl and connection with the sewer, you can proceed directly to work:

We select pipes that will attach the toilet to the sewer.
We collect the entire structure, mount the pipes.
On the floor we mark the exact places where the toilet bowl is attached.
With a vertical sewer drain, it is necessary to mark and drill a hole for the pipe.
If you plan to use taffeta - a special oak panel, then now you need to prepare it. The taffeta is treated with an anti-corrosion protective compound, and the attachment points are marked on it.
A cement layer is installed between the floor and the panel. The rest of the work can be done only after it has completely hardened.
Next, screws attach the toilet to the taffeta. Screws are best pre-treated with a special lubricant. To protect the structure, rubber gaskets are used.

Tile installation

If the floor in the bathroom is not wooden, but concrete and covered with tiles, you can do without the use of taffeta. The toilet is attached directly to the floor using dowels inserted into the prepared holes:

Before that, all holes are cleaned of dust and dirt, treated with grease and filled with silicone.
Dowels are inserted into them. The floor along the contour is also covered with sealant for better protection against leaks.
The toilet bowl is placed in the marked place, bushings are inserted into the holes and bolts are screwed in.
Plugs are put on.
Excess sealant should be removed immediately with a spatula.

Glue mounting

One of the easiest installation methods is to "land" with epoxy glue. It is suitable for both bathrooms with wooden floors and tiles:

First, the area of \u200b\u200bthe floor on which the toilet will stand, and its lower part, are thoroughly cleaned.
The wooden floor needs to be sanded a little.
The floor area and the base of the toilet must be degreased with any solvent.
After that, both surfaces must be coated with glue, the layer must be at least 4 mm.
The structure is put in place and pressed to the floor for better bonding. In this case, it is very important to ensure that the socket is exactly parallel to the sewer pipe.
Excess glue is best removed immediately with a wet sponge or cloth.
After that, for a reliable connection, you need to leave the structure for 12 hours or more.
After the allotted time, you can connect to the sewer using a corrugated pipe or any other selected in advance.

Conclusion

With any installation method, remember that all work must be carried out carefully, without fuss. All pipe connections must be airtight, you can use minium and tow or special electrical tape for this, wrapping it around the joints.

If in an old house there is a wooden floor with bumps, swellings, then taffeta must be used to install the toilet. This will prevent it from splitting, warping and leaking.

After the toilet is connected to the sewer, you can install the seat and cistern. At the end, be sure to check for leaks. To do this, you need to drain the water from the tank several times and check all the attachment points. If everywhere is dry, then the structure is installed correctly and it can be used.

Installation of plumbing in an apartment building is not particularly difficult, if only because communications are usually unified. A private house is a completely different matter. The field for fantasy here is, as they say, unplowed. The type of communications and building materials used depends only on the owner's idea. Therefore, the way the toilet is installed is influenced by many different factors. Consider different options for how to properly install a toilet in a private house.

Toilet and sewer drain: compatibility issues

The way the toilet is installed is influenced, first of all, by the way the wastewater is discharged.

Vertical

The sewer pipe goes into the floor vertically. This type of descent is considered obsolete. Despite this, a vertical drain is used in private homes when the toilet footage is small and you need to save space. Plumbing in this case is mounted directly on the pipe.

Horizontal

The toilet bowl joins to horizontally located fastening. This method of laying sewer drains is by far the most popular.

Depending on these data, you need to select plumbing. There are three types of toilet bowls:

Oblique release. Universal option suitable for both types of sewerage.
Horizontal release. Such a toilet can be connected to a horizontal pipe.
Vertical release. This type of toilet is suitable for vertical flushing.

Important! In addition, there are wall-mounted and floor-standing toilets. The suspended version has not yet become widespread due to the relatively high price.

In both cases, fan, plastic or corrugated pipes, as well as eccentric cuffs, are used for connection.

Fan pipes are the most aesthetically advantageous option. Together with the toilet, they visually form a single whole. The material for the manufacture of fan pipes can be:

Porcelain.
Semi-porcelain.
Faience.

Important! Since these pipes have a ceramic base, they cannot be shortened or bent. Corrugated pipes with eccentric cuffs make it possible to make connections even in the most difficult to access places. The corrugated sleeve is very flexible, but has significant drawbacks: if it is strongly stretched, it becomes less durable. In addition, the throughput of such pipes is small, blockages are not uncommon. To reduce the risk of accidents, it is worth choosing corrugated pipes with thick walls.

Plastic pipes are easy to install, practical and reliable. For this reason, when installing toilet bowls, they are most often used.

How to install a toilet in a private house on a wooden floor?

If the task is how to install a toilet in a private house on a wooden floor, there are 3 installation methods:

For glue.
On dowels.
On taffeta.

How to put a toilet on dowels?

This is the most common and simple method, the popularity of which is explained by low labor costs. To fix the toilet on a wooden base, special connections (dowels) are used, which often come with plumbing. If there are no fasteners in the kit, you can buy them at a hardware store.

Important! Dowels have a limited area of use:

If we are talking about a massive stone or cast iron structure, they will not be able to provide stability to these products. Such a mount is used for toilet bowls made of faience or sanitary ware.

This method is not suitable for uneven floors. The toilet bowl simply runs the risk of flying off the mounts due to height differences.

Consider the procedure for installing the toilet on the dowels in stages.

Substrate laying

When installing the toilet on a wooden floor, the craftsmen do not recommend fixing the product directly to the base. Between them it is desirable to install a gasket (for example, from linoleum).

Important! The gasket is needed so that the place of contact between the surface of the floor and the toilet is more airtight.

The substrate is made as follows:

Place the toilet on the linoleum and trace the outline.
Now it remains to cut the substrate of the desired size and shape.

Markup:

How to distribute fasteners?

Focus on the diameter of the special holes for mounting. Mark the location of the holes on the surface of the substrate and proceed to fastening.

Important! Experts advise using a drill with a diameter slightly smaller than the mounting holes. In this case, plumbing will be more stable.

Hammer the dowels into the holes drilled in the wood and install the toilet on them. Screw fasteners. All. The work is over.

Important! In no case do not overtighten the fasteners. The ceramic from which the toilet is made can crack.

How to connect the toilet to the sewer?

For this, corrugation is used. This is a plastic pipe, shaped like an accordion, which is stretched to the required length. Connect one end of the corrugation to the toilet outlet, and insert the other into the sewer socket.

Important! To seal the joints, pre-lubricate the corrugation at both ends with liquid silicone. Reinforced adhesive tape allows you to make the connection even more durable and tight.

How to install a toilet bowl with your own hands in a private house with epoxy glue?

In terms of labor costs, this is the least time-consuming method, but with the operation of the toilet, you will have to wait a bit until the epoxy is completely dry.

Important! If you put the toilet on the dowels, you can immediately start using it, then when using epoxy glue, you will have to wait about half a day.

Which glue to choose?

The following types of epoxy glue are on sale:

One-component. This is a ready mix of epoxy resin and hardener.
Two-component (two tubes: with epoxy and hardener). After both components are mixed in a certain ratio, a composition suitable for use is obtained.

Epoxy also differs in the degree of thermal activity. Some formulations require heating before use, others are used cold.

Important! Various epoxy compounds can be used to mount the toilet bowl, but it is much easier to work with a one-component one.

We glue the toilet to the tree

How to apply to properly install the toilet in a private house:

Before installation, the base of the toilet bowl and the floor area are coated with epoxy glue, having previously cleaned and degreased the surfaces.
The wooden surface is also sanded to improve adhesion.
When installing, make sure that the toilet bowl is parallel to the sewer pipe, otherwise it may be difficult to connect.
Remove excess glue immediately with a damp cloth, without waiting for the composition to harden.

Important! At the end of the work, you can not even touch the toilet. Hato after 12-15 hours plumbing will be literally tightly coupled to the floor.

If you make glue with your own hands

If there is no epoxy glue on sale, you can make it yourself:

Resin ED-6 - 100 parts.
Solvent - 20 parts.
Hardener - 35 parts.

We make glue with our own hands:

Heat the resin in a water bath and mix with the solvent and hardener.
Then add dry cement (200 parts).

Important! When mixing, it is important to observe exactly this order of combining the ingredients.

Placement of plumbing on taffeta

This is a universal method. It is also suitable for installing a toilet bowl on an old swollen wooden floor.

Important! Taffeta is a wooden backing cut to the shape of the base. The thickness of the wood is from 30 mm. It is important to choose a quality tree, without rotten areas and knots.

How to put a toilet on a wooden floor with taffeta?

Nails are driven into the “wrong side” of taffeta so that the caps protrude 20-30 mm above the tree. Nails act as anchors, making the structure more rigid.

Algorithm for installing plumbing on taffeta:

Filling the screed from a cement-sand mortar.
Recessing the taffeta into the screed (with the anchors pointing down). It is necessary to ensure that the combination of screed and taffeta is complete, without bumps and gaps.
Connection of taffeta and toilet bowl with screws.
In order not to damage the ceramics, rubber gaskets are placed under the screw heads.
The last step is performed after the screed has completely hardened.

Important! Taffeta, made of wood, plays the role of a shock absorber that prevents the toilet bowl from splitting (this happens when it is installed on a wooden base).

How to install a tank on a shelf?

To install the tank you will need:

2 bolts.
Sealing gasket: foam or rubber (put on the hole of the drain mechanism).

Operating procedure:

Washers and rubber seals are put on the bolts.
Now it remains to install the tank in its place, align the holes and tighten the fasteners.
The bolts must be tightened by hand, as the wrench can damage the structure.
To connect the tank to the plumbing system, flexible water hoses with nuts at the ends are used.
All threaded connections are sealed with rubber gaskets. It is useful to use the FUM tape.

How to properly install a toilet in a private house on different types of bases?

In addition to the wooden floor, there may be other floor coverings in the bathroom. Consider the specifics of installing plumbing on different base materials.

Concrete

Concrete floors are popular in private homes. The toilet bowl is installed on a special "pillow" of cement. The basis of the solution are: cement, sand and water:

First, a wooden or metal frame is laid at the installation site of the plumbing, and then the cement mortar is poured.
Plumbing is pressed into the cement.
In this case, excess solution must be quickly removed.
After the cement has dried, the frame is removed.

Ceramics

In this case, there is no need for a substrate. It is enough to glue the plumbing to the floor using a special compound. The best option is epoxy resin.

Important! Adding dry cement to the mortar improves adhesion.

footage

Whatever method you use, accuracy and accuracy are an indispensable condition for plumbing to serve you for a long time and stably. A thoughtful and responsible approach is important in any case.

The modern toilet bowl was invented in England in 1849. Nowadays it is difficult to imagine a house or apartment without this device. To install a toilet in a private house, it is not necessary to call specialists - you can handle it on your own. It is enough just to follow the installation instructions for this plumbing device.

The main differences between installing a toilet in a house and installing it in an apartment

The methods of equipping a toilet in a house and an apartment practically do not differ from each other. The difference lies in the use of vent pipes when connecting the toilet to the drain manifold. Fan pipes protect the apartment from the penetration of unpleasant odors from the common sewer riser. When installing plumbing in a country house, the use of such pipes is not necessary.

How to choose the right toilet for your home

When choosing a toilet, you first need to consider the location of the sewer pipes in your home. Drains in sewer systems are arranged in two ways - vertical and horizontal placement of pipes. The technology for connecting the toilet to the sewer depends on their location. Toilets come in three types of connection:

Vertical connection - suitable for houses in which the drain pipes are located vertically. Such a sewage device is rarely used in modern construction.
Horizontal connection - used to connect the toilet bowl to horizontally located sewer pipes.
Oblique drain - suitable for both types of pipe arrangement in the collector.

In addition, sewerage is gravity and pressure. Gravity waste disposal is the simplest and cheapest type of domestic sewage. However, this type of drain will only function if the slopes are correctly calculated during its arrangement and the drain pit is located not far from the house. The pressurized sewage system is capable of discharging sewage over long distances. It works with the help of a special fecal pump, so when the power goes out, it stops working.

Necessary set of tools and materials

In preparation for work, you must stock up on the following tools and materials:

level;
roulette;
chalk or marker for marking;
perforator;
silicone sealant;
fum tape or tow;
corrugated pipe, plumbing eccentrics or plastic fan connection.

If you plan to install a toilet bowl on taffeta, you will additionally need a board treated with drying oil or an antiseptic, glue or epoxy.

Installation of plumbing on a vertically located sewer pipe is significantly different from a horizontal connection. However, in both cases, before starting the installation, you should mark out and prepare a place for a plumbing fixture.

Preparatory work

The way the toilet is installed largely depends on the surface allotted for installation. To do this, it is necessary to determine by the level whether the place on which it is planned to hoist plumbing is level. If the floor of the toilet has a curvature, it is necessary to correct this defect. For example, a concrete base can be leveled by pouring a new screed.

If the floor is tiled, drill holes in it and hammer wooden chopsticks into it, adjusting the required height according to the level. A toilet bowl will subsequently be installed on them.

To correct the unevenness of wooden floors, taffeta is used, cut from a wooden board strictly along the contour of the base of the toilet bowl. Also, taffeta can be used for a concrete base. First you need to hammer the anchor into it and wall it into the floor when pouring the screed with the protruding ends up. The toilet bowl will be fixed on them. For a vertical connection, a hole of the required diameter is drilled in the taffeta.

Before starting installation, turn off the water supply. With a horizontal connection, the toilet seat is moved to the sewer pipe and the outlet of the device is combined with it in order to find out how the toilet will have to be connected to the sewer system: using corrugations, eccentrics or a fan connection.

Then, moving the plumbing aside, holes are drilled in the floor with an impact drill according to the marks. The drill must be chosen with a smaller diameter than the fasteners, for better fixation of the toilet seat. After that, the toilet is put in place, attached to the sewer system, having previously cleaned it of excess debris, and the joints are coated with silicone for better sealing. Then carefully, with dowels or bolts, screw it to the floor. It is important not to overtighten the fasteners in order to avoid cracks and chips in the body of the plumbing fixture.

If you plan to fix the toilet with glue or epoxy, you need to sand the base of the toilet seat and the floor for better adhesion and degrease them. Then carefully apply glue to both surfaces and press the toilet to the floor.

With a vertical connection, a corrugated pipe is put on the toilet outlet flange using a cuff, the second end of which is lowered into the sewer pipe. Before this, you need to install the mount and the wax seal.

After installing the toilet seat, you must connect the drain tank. As a rule, in the store, flush devices are sold ready-made, and you only need to attach the toilet bowl to the water supply. The drain mechanism is put in place, while it is imperative to lay a rubber gasket between the toilet seat and the tank. Bolts are inserted into the corresponding grooves and tightened to the stop. The main thing at the same time is to prevent the device from skewing and not to overtighten the bolts. The drain tank is connected to the water supply system using a flexible reinforced hose.

At the final stage, you should check how the drain tank works, make sure that there are no leaks anywhere, and after that you can use the toilet.

Video: How to install a toilet on your own

In conclusion, it should be noted that installing a toilet bowl in a private house with your own hands is a completely doable task. This work is within the power of anyone, if you follow the instructions.

If it is necessary to replace the old or install a new toilet, some people immediately rush to seek the help of a specialist. Do not make hasty decisions, because it is not difficult to do this work on your own. It is enough to study in detail the instructions of the purchased product, deal with the nuances of installation and do it yourself. Modern connecting elements allow you to quickly and efficiently connect the toilet to the sewer. By spending a little time, you will save significant money, because the cost of an experienced plumber is almost equal to the cost of the purchased toilet bowl.

Toilet classification

Many people think that the toilet is a modern invention, but it is not. Already at the end of the 16th century, it was invented for the Queen of England, but due to the lack of centralized water supply and sewerage, it was not widely used.

Modern toilet bowls are available in different versions and differ in the shape of the bowl, the method of installation and the type of drain system. To make the right choice of such a device, you first need to familiarize yourself with the existing offer and decide on the parameters of the toilet that you need.

According to the method of fastening

There is a classification of toilet bowls according to the method of attachment:

floor. They are the most budgetary and are best suited for spacious toilet rooms. Installation of such a product is carried out on anchor bolts, which allows, if necessary, to dismantle it without damaging the floor covering;
Floor models are mounted on anchor bolts and, if necessary, can be easily dismantled
wall-mounted. This is one of the varieties of the floor version, designed for installation in small bathrooms. According to the design of the flush system, such toilets are practically in no way inferior to hanging ones. There are corner models of wall-mounted devices that are great for installation in small toilet rooms;
A wall-mounted toilet differs from a floor-standing one only in that it is installed close to the wall.
suspended. Also designed for installation in small areas. Although outwardly such models seem very elegant and fragile, they are designed for weights up to 400 kg. and therefore are very durable and reliable. Installing a suspended structure makes it easier to clean the bathroom, and also frees up some of the free space. Such a toilet bowl is attached in a frame or block way.
Wall hung toilet saves space

By release design

According to the type of descent of water into the sewer system, there are toilet bowls:

with vertical outlet. Such a solution is rare in our country, but, for example, in America it is very popular. This is due to the fact that in this country communications are often not attached to the wall, but carried out under the floor, so the toilet can be installed anywhere;
A toilet with a vertical outlet can be installed in any required place, for this it is enough to bring sewer pipes there
with horizontal outlet. The descent of the toilet bowl and the sewer hole are located on the same line. Most modern models have this design;
A toilet with a horizontal outlet is designed for cases where the sewer hole is located in the wall
with oblique release. The tilt angle of the toilet bowl is 40-45°. Such models were popular in the 80s of the last century, they were installed in apartment buildings.
Oblique outlet toilets are placed when communications fit along the bottom of the wall

By tank mounting type

If we talk about the type of fastening of the tank, then the toilet bowls can be of the following types:

with separate tank. In this case, the tank is mounted under the ceiling, and it is connected to the bowl using a pipeline. This allows you to get a high flush rate, but the appearance of this design is not very attractive;
The tank is located at some distance from the toilet bowl and is connected to it by a pipeline
with a joint tank, which is attached directly to the toilet bowl. The design can be detachable, bolted or monolithic;
In most toilet models, the tank is installed directly on the bowl
with hidden tank. This solution allows you to implement a variety of design ideas. The hidden tank is fixed using the frame method;
Only the bowl remains in sight, and the tank is hidden inside the toilet
without tank. Typically, such models are installed in public toilets, but can also be used in everyday life. In this case, the pressure in the bowl is supplied directly from the water supply, and the water flow is controlled using an electronic or mechanical valve.
In a toilet without a tank, water is supplied into the bowl directly from the main

By flush type

There are differences between toilet bowls and in the direction of the flow of water during flushing:

Most modern toilets have two flush modes - full and economical, which allows you to almost halve the water consumption.

On the modern market there is a wide selection of both domestic and foreign toilet bowls. Our models are cheaper because the price does not include shipping costs and customs duties. The main parameters to consider when choosing are:

The quality of the bowl. In order for the toilet to be comfortable to use, it must have a good flush. And for this, the bowl must be covered with high-quality glaze - if it is porous, then dirt will constantly accumulate and you will have to use a brush more often.
Tank filling speed. The toilet bowl should have modern shut-off valves, then if several people live in the house, it will not be necessary to wait long for the drain to recover after other people visit the toilet.
Economy mode available. Since now almost all apartments are equipped with water meters, in order to reduce its consumption, it is necessary to purchase models with a double button. In this case, it is possible to perform a full or economical drain.
Economy flush mode uses half the water
Bowl shape. It can be different: round, oval, square, so if possible, it is better to sit on the toilet and practically evaluate its comfort.
Material type. Usually, porcelain or faience is used to make toilet bowls. Porcelain products are of higher quality, but their price is higher. Outwardly, it is almost impossible to distinguish porcelain from faience, so it is necessary to study the product documentation. Now you can buy metal, glass models, toilet bowls made of reinforced plastic, natural or artificial stone.
Toilets are made not only from traditional porcelain and faience, but also from natural stone, such as marble
Cover quality. It should be rigid, made of Duroplast and have an antibacterial coating. You should not buy a foam cover, as it will be a breeding ground for germs. It is convenient when the lid is equipped with a microlift. It ensures its smooth closing, which occurs without noise and shock.
It is best to purchase toilets with a Duroplast lid with a built-in microlift
Additional functions. Now many manufacturers equip their products with various options, but keep in mind that this increases the cost of the device. Before purchasing such a model, consider whether you need lighting, music from the toilet, or seat heating.

When choosing a toilet bowl, you need to optimally combine your desires and financial capabilities. You can either sacrifice some items and choose a more budget model, or buy a device with additional features.

Video: choosing a toilet

Preparing for installation

If you decide to install the toilet yourself, then before that you need to perform certain preparatory work. First you need to determine which model will be optimal in your case and only then purchase it.

Typically, the installation of the toilet is performed during repairs in the bathroom. If it became necessary to replace it in another case, then first you need to remove objects from the room that will interfere with the work, turn off the water supply and prepare all the necessary tools.

Necessary tools and materials

In order to install a toilet, you may need the following tools and materials:

If you are replacing the toilet, you must first dismantle the old device. The work process will be as follows:

Removing the tank. First you need to disconnect the water hose, and then drain the water from it. Then open the lid, unscrew the fasteners and remove the tank.
Removing the toilet. Unscrew the toilet bowl to the floor and disconnect it from the sewer pipe. If this does not work right away, you need to shake the bowl a little. For convenience, you can first cut off the toilet (if it will no longer be used), and then proceed to dismantle the fasteners.
First remove the tank, and then dismantle the bowl
Cleaning the sewer hole. It is necessary to clean the entrance to the sewer hole, and then close it with a rag so that foreign objects do not get there, and toxic fumes do not enter the apartment.
The hole of the sewer pipe is cleaned of dirt and deposits

Surface preparation for installation

The choice of how to prepare the floor surface will depend on how the old toilet was installed. Previously, for the installation of a toilet bowl, a board (taffeta) was embedded in the floor, after which the bowl was attached to it with screws. If the taffeta is in good condition, then it can be left. If you decide to remove the board, then the resulting place must be filled with mortar and covered with tiles.

The surface for the installation of the toilet must be cleaned and leveled

If the toilet was installed on a tile, it is enough just to unscrew it, since the floor covering is not damaged. After that, you can mark the places for installing a new toilet bowl.

Toilet Assembly

To ensure the integrity of the plumbing equipment and save space during transportation to the store, it arrives disassembled. Do not be afraid of this, since each product comes with detailed assembly instructions, following which it will not be difficult to cope with this task.

How to connect a toilet to a cistern

The main attention should be paid to the correct installation of the float, since it is he who regulates the filling of the tank with water. The toilet assembly process itself consists of the following steps:

Installation of the drain mechanism. The valves usually come already assembled, so you just have to install it in the tank. Pay special attention to mating surfaces and see that there are no burrs. First, a sealing gum is installed, then a drain device and fixed with a nut.
The drain assembly assembly is mounted on a rubber seal that protects the water drain from leakage
Connection of a tank with a shelf. The assembled tank is applied to the shelf on the toilet bowl and connected using the bolts and nuts included in the kit. Do not forget to install rubber washers to ensure the tightness of the connection.
The rubber washer ensures a tight connection between the tank and the bowl

During installation of valves in the tank, all nuts are tightened by hand, without applying much effort.

Install the toilet in the place where it will stand, and align with plastic or rubber gaskets. Then mark the attachment points, make holes in the floor and fix the toilet bowl with dowels.

Sewer connection

After installing the toilet, you need to connect it to the sewer system. There are some features when connecting models with a vertical, horizontal or oblique drain.

Installing a vertical outlet toilet

Connection to the sewerage of a toilet bowl with a vertical outlet is carried out simultaneously with its installation:

Installation of a toilet bowl with a horizontal branch pipe

In this case, the outlet is directed backwards and a special cuff is used to connect it to the sewer pipe. Its shape depends on the location of the exit from the riser. If it is made horizontally, a straight adapter pipe of the appropriate diameter is used. If the drain pipe exits at an angle, an appropriate design is made of swivel elbows or a corrugated hose.

To connect a toilet bowl with a horizontal outlet to the sewerage system, a transitional structure of swivel knees or flexible corrugations is used

Installing a toilet with an oblique outlet

Very often, the oblique outlet of the toilet is located above or below the sewer pipe. There are two ways to mount such models:

Switching from cast iron pipes to plastic products

There are still cast-iron sewer pipes in the houses of the old building, and if they are in good condition, then it is not necessary to change them, since you can connect them with new plastic products.

There are several mounting methods:

With rubber gasket. This option is good to use if the cast iron socket has a smooth edge. The cuff is lubricated with sealant and inserted into the socket, after which a plastic pipe or adapter is inserted into it. A plastic one is inserted into a cast-iron pipe by 3-8 cm - if everything is done correctly, then such a connection will reliably serve for 6-8 years.
Sealing of plastic and cast iron pipes can be done using a rubber cuff
With the use of linen winding. If there is no sealant, you can use linen winding. This is a time-tested method: a plastic pipe is wrapped with linen winding, after which it is inserted into a cast-iron socket, and the winding is carefully tucked in with a narrow spatula. Then the seam is smeared with a solution of PVA glue and dries throughout the day.
The gap between the plastic and cast-iron pipes is sealed with tow and filled with mortar.
Combined method. To obtain the most tight connection, when the gap between the pipes to be connected is large, a combined installation method is used. At the same time, caulking is performed using winding and a rubber gasket is installed, after which the joint is coated with silicone sealant.
With a press fitting. This is a special element, which on the one hand has a thread for a cast-iron pipe, and on the other - a socket for a plastic element. In this case, the edge of the old pipeline is cut off, after which it is lubricated with grease and threaded. Then the tow or FUM tape is wound, lubricated with sealant and the press fitting is screwed on. A plastic pipe is inserted into the socket.
Using a press fitting, you can reliably connect a plastic pipe with a cast iron

When docking a cast-iron and plastic sewer system, it is important to follow the specified rules for performing work, only in this way it will be possible to obtain a high-quality and tight connection.

Connecting with a corrugation

One of the most common ways to connect a toilet to a sewer is to use a plastic corrugation. First you need to decide on the required size of this product. It is best to buy corrugation reinforced with wire or mesh - it is more durable and will last longer.

The procedure for connecting the toilet:

You can connect using plastic elbows, but unlike corrugations, they are not flexible. This solution is convenient to use in the case when the sewer system was planned for a specific toilet model.

Rigid bends are more durable and durable, but when replacing the toilet or needing to move it a little, you will have to change the adapters or use a corrugation or an eccentric.

To connect the toilet to the sewer, you can use a direct adapter or an element with an eccentric

Installation is carried out in the same way as in the case of corrugation, but horizontal adapters and right angles must be avoided. Gray adapters are cheaper, but they look ugly with a white toilet.

Video: toilet installation

Water connection

There are several ways to connect the toilet cistern to the water supply:

To connect to the water supply can be used:

The connection order will be the same regardless of the eyeliner:

Video: connecting the toilet to the water supply

Features of connecting models "monoblock" and "compact"

The difference between the toilet bowls "compact" and "monoblock" is the type of connection of the drain tank. If in the first case the tank is attached directly to the shelf located on the bowl, then in the second case - the bowl and the tank are made in a single body.

In the "monoblock" toilet bowl, the bowl and the tank are made in a single body

Both types of toilets are mounted on the floor, and the way they are connected to the sewer will depend on the type of descent. Installation is carried out in the same way as shown above. The only difference is that for the “compact” it is necessary to independently install and adjust the shut-off valves, while for the “monoblock” it is already assembled and adjusted by the manufacturer.

Hanging toilet: installation features

If the area of \u200b\u200bthe toilet is small and you want to save free space, experts recommend installing a wall-mounted toilet model. Installation of such a device is carried out on the installation - a special support frame.

The installation technology of a suspended toilet bowl includes the following steps:

Installation selection. Usually it comes with a cistern, flush button, necessary pipes and adapters. The bowl can also be included in the kit or you have to buy it separately.
The installation usually includes a tank, adapters and nozzles
Determination of seat height. Installation of the installation is possible only on a main wall, which can withstand a weight of about 400 kg, so it cannot be installed on a plasterboard structure. The toilet seat is usually set at a height of 40-48 cm, it all depends on the height of the users - you need to make sure that everyone is comfortable.
Markup. Mark the central axis of the installation and determine its distance from the adjacent wall. It should provide a convenient connection to the water supply and sewage system, therefore it is usually at least 14 cm. The tank is placed at a height of 1 meter from the floor.
The height of the wall-hung toilet bowl above the floor level should be 40–48 cm
Drilling holes. In the marked places, holes are made into which dowels are inserted.
Installation of the installation case with a plastic tank. It must be set in a vertical and horizontal plane, so be sure to use the building level. Adjustment is performed by changing the height of the legs.
With the help of adjustable legs, the installation is leveled
Drain button installation. It can be mechanical or pneumatic.
Line of communications. Plumbing is usually carried out using rigid pipes, as they are more durable and reliable. The pipes of the tank are fixed with clamps and the sewer outlet is mounted at an angle of 45 o.
Bowl installation. It is attached to the studs using a shock-absorbing pad. Connect the bowl and the nozzles of the tank. Check the operation of the toilet.
The installation construct is most often finished with moisture-resistant drywall

Video: installation of a hanging toilet installation

System health check

Regardless of what type of toilet you installed, before you start using it, you need to check the system's performance. This is easy to do: you need to turn on the water and wait until the tank is full. After that, the water is drained and all the junctions of the toilet bowl with the water supply and sewerage are inspected.

If there are no leaks, then everything is fine. If leaks were found in some connections, it is necessary to check and correct the seals and again perform a control drain of water. It is also necessary to check the reliability of fixing the toilet bowl, it must be fixed firmly.

Common Errors and How to Fix Them

When performing self-installation of the toilet bowl, home craftsmen can make typical mistakes, which you can also eliminate with your own hands:

If you loosely fasten the toilet, then this can soon lead to a violation of the tightness of the joints, as well as damage to it.

Video: editing errors

Almost any home master can install a toilet bowl on his own. To do this, you need to choose the right type of toilet bowl and, in accordance with this, perform its installation. If you strictly follow the instructions and recommendations of specialists, then a self-installed toilet bowl will perform the necessary functions for a long time and reliably.