Selecting a husky puppy from the litter. How to choose a West Siberian husky puppy

Laika is a dog whose appearance is well known to almost everyone.

She can be a consummate hunter or a devoted companion, and, with the grace of a wolf, combines all the qualities of a man's friend.

One day you decide that you want to get a puppy of this breed. But do you know enough about it?

Choosing a Husky puppy can be a daunting task. Inexperienced dog breeders often associate the Siberian Laika with.

In fact, these are two completely different breeds, primarily differing in their purpose: the husky is a sled dog, while the husky was created for hunting.

If you are asking the question “how to choose a Laika puppy?”, first you should decide on the breed more specifically. The fact is that the Laika is a whole group of breeds.

Of course, they are more similar to each other than to any other dogs, but within a group, its representatives can vary greatly.

This is a group of northern hunting dogs. The appearance of the first two is so similar that sometimes, without a pedigree in front of your eyes, only an expert can distinguish one from the other.

However, the West Siberian Laika is more common, so it is easier to find good pedigree puppies from it than from the East Siberian Laika.

If you need a Siberian husky not for hunting, but as a pet, rely on your taste: let the dog please you in appearance.

The East Siberian Laika is the largest of these. She, like the West Siberian, can be of several colors.

The Russian-European one stands out for its strict black and white coloring, but the color ratio is different for each individual.

If a dog is taken for hunting, one cannot stop at appearance alone.

The Siberian Laika can handle game of any size, but there are some subtleties, so do your research on the breed you choose.

For example, there is an opinion that the West Siberian Laika is the most versatile, but the tall East European Laika is easiest to move through deep snow.

Think about color: a bright coat makes a dog easily visible to a hunter in poor visibility.

If your dream is a real Siberian husky, forget about the “bird”.

A Laika on the market is attractively cheap, but don’t be surprised if the puppy turns out to be a mongrel, sick, or has an unstable psyche, which will entail.

Best option To purchase a hunting dog, contact practicing hunters. When choosing a puppy from a kennel, pay attention to the working diplomas of its parents.

Ask the breeder to show the dogs in action. How much will you have to pay for a puppy with documents? Even a purebred Siberian husky is relatively inexpensive.

No matter how much an animal costs you, it will definitely pay off with the joy it brings if you take a responsible approach to choosing a nursery.

Decide on the gender of your future pet. There is an opinion among hunters that females are better at hunting squirrels, and males are better at hunting ducks.

Bitches tend to be more flexible and loyal. A female dog only comes into heat twice a year, but sometimes this interferes with hunting.

On the other hand, a male without proper training is capable of running after a female in heat at any time.

Beginners are usually advised to get a female dog, as male dogs can be more difficult to handle.

But don’t get hung up on the gender if it’s not important, and take the puppy you like. A dog's personality is highly individual, so gender is not the only deciding factor.

What you really need to pay attention to is whether the puppy looks healthy: how much does he eat, is he playful, is he curious?

For a hunter, the best would be a medium-sized puppy, not too small and not the largest in the litter.

Take a closer look at the behavioral characteristics of each of them - most likely, these character traits will remain in puppies for life. You can take your future pet home after he is one and a half months old.

Photo gallery

We hope this article will help you decide on the choice of a pet. After all, now you know the main criteria and nuances that you should pay attention to when you decide to get yourself a Laika puppy.

Early
or later, every real hunter decides to get himself
four-legged friend, companion and hunting assistant. If you are going
To hunt on different types game, then it’s best to stop your choice on
Like. These dogs are mostly universal and can be trained
for almost all types of game. However, remember that the Laika is a dog only for
hunting and again for hunting.

Whom to choose:
"boy" or "girl"?

IN
First of all, the question always arises: who is better: a male or a female? On that
everyone has their own opinion. Mine is next. Males are more powerful and larger,
more independent and hardier than bitches. In addition, they are more courageous and angry. All this
allows them to behave quite confidently even next to a large animal. How
As a rule, male dogs have a wide search and greater viscosity. However, there is also
minuses. When several males meet during a hunt, there is no fight between them.
to avoid. And in the end, this can ruin the whole hunt. Yes, and find an approach to
It’s more difficult for them, since “boys” are more stubborn and capricious. There are more
flaw. If they are baited and trained on a large animal (bear, wild boar
etc.), then they stop paying attention to birds and fur-bearing animals. And here are the bitches
although they are weaker physically and smaller in size, always work reliably
any game. “Girls” are more obedient, diligently search for the beast and have a sharp
instinct. They are more attached to their owner and always try to fulfill his task.
desires and commands. Bitches are very distrustful of strangers, less often
get lost and it’s more difficult to take them away. However, they also have their downside. Twice a year
for 3 weeks for “girls”
sexual activity occurs.

If you want to acquire a purebred hunting husky, then only a pedigree can confirm the purity of the puppy’s breed. In it
the puppy's ancestors are indicated with all their titles and titles that were
obtained by them at tests and exhibitions. Working qualities are also noted there
dogs. But a puppy cannot be fully guaranteed to have high working qualities in the future.
even give an excellent pedigree. You can be safe if you take the puppy already in
more late age, that is, when it will be possible to evaluate
qualities of a dog that interest you. To bait (train) hunting puppies
Laikas start at 4-6 months, so an experienced hunter will already be able to
accurately assess the potential of puppies. It was also noticed that the best in terms of work
qualities, huskies appear in experienced gamekeepers and “little husky” hunters.

What to look for
attention when choosing a puppy

Purchase
The best time for a pet is in the spring. Over the summer it will get stronger and grow, and in the fall you can
go into the forest, do some training and make your first hunting trips.

Choose
puppy preferably together with an experienced one who knows the intricacies of the breed
dog handler. If this is not possible, then, first of all, very carefully
take a closer look at all the puppies. After all, absolutely every puppy has his own
individual character and temperament. Sanguine people are balanced, calm,
They don’t get into fights, but they rebuff their brothers very confidently. Typical
Choleric puppies are aggressive and lively. Attack their brothers and sisters
They constantly growl and run towards the food, unceremoniously pushing aside their fellows.
Phlegmatic people are fearful and cowardly. Without apparent reason whine and squeak. If on them
When other puppies attack, they try to hide.

When
the puppy confidently stands alone, then usually such a dog will become in the future
independent on the hunt. Curious puppies carefully and diligently
Hunting grounds are searched in search of prey. Sociable puppies are excellent
feel themselves on a collective hunt, where there are usually many hunters and
hunting dogs.

Please pay
attention to physical state puppy. He must be well-fed, strong,
however, not overfed. The color must comply with the standards of this
breeds But keep in mind that puppies always darken with age.

Preference
should be given to the most independent and inquisitive puppy, because this
speaks of his future intelligence and activity. Of interest is also
a confident, calm puppy who does not bully, but can stand up for
myself. If you look into the puppy's eyes, the brave little one will not look away.

Necessarily
Check the puppy's bite and number of incisors. The bite should be in the form of scissors,
incisors - 6 below and above.

Relatively
eye color, then if a puppy at the age of 1 month has no blue in the eyes and
pupils are almost invisible, then he will have dark Brown eyes.

TO
At the moment of selection, the pet's dewclaws should be removed. The guarantee that
a puppy will grow into a large dog, due to the greater thickness of its paws and the volume of its skull.

Please pay
attention to the puppy giving voice, and not cowardly yapping at unfamiliar objects.

TO
Choose your pet carefully. Take a close look at each one
puppy. Please note that the personality traits of a puppy are retained in an adult dog.

From
litter, choose a puppy with clearly defined breed characteristics, healthy and
active, who has no physical defects.

Puppy,
finding food first, being able to respond better than others to various sounds,
who is constantly exploring something is your puppy.

I want to
to say once again that choosing a puppy is a responsible and important step for that,
who decided to get a hunting husky. After all, you are not taking the dog for
for a short time, but for many years. And it depends on how you react to
The choice of a pet depends on a lot, including success in hunting and trials.

When choosing a puppy, a hunter proceeds from his attachment to the breed, takes into account the working qualities of certain nests, lines, the characteristics of the hunts that he will engage in, his physical characteristics and much more. The simplest thing, of course, is to take a puppy from the working dogs of a serious hunter. There is a guarantee that the dog will work at least averagely on different types of animals and well on some. In this case, even if you yourself do not understand enough about hunting, a mature dog will teach you in a couple of seasons how to hunt the animal for which it will work well. And after another season, you yourself will teach others. Just be very attentive to your young dog while hunting, don’t miss a single detail, and very soon you will understand what to do in a particular situation. Well, what should those who took a puppy at random and have to believe only in documents about its origin do? And they may not satisfy you yet. And besides, you have no experience in training a young dog. In these cases, you have to resort to the help of an experienced friend. He will look at the starting points from which to develop your dog. Many young huskies, which did not show any promise as hunting dogs, passed from hand to hand or strayed, suddenly becoming excellent workers for one or another animal for one of the new owners. And the matter is often not in the last owner, but in the circumstances that awakened the dormant hereditary qualities of the dog. The last limit of this hidden period occurs at the age of five years of the dog, and not at two or three years, as is usually said. And of course, before two or three years old, you cannot demand unconditional work from a young husky. This primarily applies to animal hunts and hunting fur-bearing animal. The lower limits of the manifestation of working qualities are very relative. For example, in the early 70s I ended up with two West Siberian husky puppies. At the beginning of commercial shooting of ungulates, they were five months old, but physically they were well developed. Their natural characteristics are also very good. I gradually began to involve them in hunting ungulates, and after a month they were already relatively good workers. By the New Year, the dogs were seven months old, and I completed the commercial shooting of thirty elk and wild boars with them. Of course, this was a large share of my work, but the puppies are very short term became workers. Many hunters still remember their excellent work. Most often, young huskies begin working on fur-bearing animals at five, rarely at four, and more often at seven months and a year. A well-known question for novice hunters: what breed of husky should I get? Usually the choice is on huskies of the Russian-European and West Siberian breeds, since the Karelian-Finnish and East Siberian huskies are still few in number. In addition, one must keep in mind that the eastern husky is very viscous, strong dog, covering considerable distances when searching for and pursuing an animal. Therefore, it is not suitable for all hunters. At the age of three to five years, she often gives up hunting small animals and birds and switches to hunting larger animals. On the contrary, Karelian-Finnish huskies are excellent poultry breeders and fur-bearers, captivating with their passion, liveliness, and activity. But among them there are bear keepers and wild boar keepers. Russian-European and West Siberian Laikas are close to each other. Some of their individuals are very similar to each other. Over the past decades, Russian-European huskies have been more and more strictly selected for a set of characteristics and are increasingly moving away from Western Siberian ones. Both breeds have their own characteristics that appeal different categories hunters If European huskies are more active in vocalization and search, then West Siberian huskies are more balanced, with relatively rare vocalization. European huskies They are overly excitable, which is why they more often have breakdowns in behavior and work. What color should you choose for your dog? It's difficult to give advice here. All colors are good, of course, except those that are atypical for a particular breed. Variegated colors are usually elegant and clearly visible in the forest, especially in foggy and twilight times. It is best for novice hunters to have a dog of this color. The white color is also elegant. Many people love the gray, wolf color. But that’s why he’s a wolf, to be almost invisible in the twilight, in the fog. And hunters need to see dogs more often. We must not, of course, forget about how many beautiful wolf-colored dogs died during chance encounters and round-ups under the shots of would-be hunters who a short time they don’t determine whether it is a dog or a wolf, and they shoot at it. I don’t want to say that you shouldn’t take such dogs as your helpers, you just need to remember this and try to protect them. The question of what gender to choose a dog is often controversial both for the hunter himself and for all members of his family. Most often they come to the opinion - “just not a bitch.” Personally, for many years, from the 50s to the 70s, I hunted with bitches, and already in the 80s, males somehow came to the fore among my dogs. In apartments with limited space, male dogs are, of course, more convenient. In addition, if you like to hunt wild boar, bear or other strong, brave animal, then you need a male. Bitches are usually good fur and bird breeders. They are neat workers, obedient, well subject to discipline, attached to the owner, easy to train, more often work close and at an average distance from the owner, more urge, their nervous system is always softer, but they are also more sensitive to rudeness. Often, when choosing a dog, a hunter is guided by personal inclinations and sympathies for his future assistant and acts contrary to the advice of experienced comrades. It can be difficult to dissuade him, and you shouldn’t do it. The main thing is that the hunter and the dog are attached to each other and understand each other well. Indeed, in difficult moments of hunting life, we often change roles with our dog assistants; the choice of the optimal solution falls either on us or on the dog. Often a dog makes a decision faster in a difficult situation than we do. True, when everything is already behind us, based on human weaknesses, we often attribute all success to our own account, and all defeats to the dog’s account. Hunter and dog adapt to each other. The dog to some extent acquires the behavior traits of the owner, works in unison, and difficulties become easily overcome. Laikas are at a very high level of development among animals. Let me give you an example. In front of us, seated at the owner’s command, are two dogs, an old one and a young one. I sat them down to scold them for their offense. They sit and listen to the owner with a guilty look. They don't take their eyes off my mouth. But then I am attracted by some noise to the side, I turn my head to the side for a second or two and with my corner vision I notice that a young dog is grabbing an old dog by the ear, like a playful child. I quickly turn to the dogs. The young woman instantly resumed her previous position and “eats me with her eyes,” as if she had done nothing, confident that I had not noticed her tricks. This behavior is difficult to fit into the framework of reflexes. And there are a lot of similar cases in the behavior of dogs. To find out what level of intelligence your dog is at, you need to be very attentive, evaluate how he relates to everything around him, how he behaves on hunts, how he navigates in difficult conditions, how he relates to new objects and circumstances. You should understand all this from her behavior. To successfully hunt different types of animals throughout the season, it is more advisable to keep two dogs. Better cable and bitch. But we must remember that a bitch, taking into account whelping and periods of heat, is unemployed for up to five months a year. Anyone who is interested in fur hunting can keep two bitches, but their whelping needs to be adjusted in advance for the off-season. For those who are engaged in fur hunting, you can keep two males. Of course, if there are conditions for keeping two dogs. Many hunters, at the expense of versatility, perfect the work of their dog on any group of animals. For hunting with a dog to bring joy and, of course, trophies, you need to pay close attention to its work. You will always see what the dog does out of respect for you and what with genuine passion. This is the main line in your dog's work. Try to provide her with the opportunity to work in this direction, and you will get an irreplaceable worker specializing in a certain hunt. Other hunting tendencies in your dog will also, of course, develop, but not to the same extent. We all strive to have a beautiful, well-built dog that has passed the conformation assessment at the show as excellent and very good. Therefore, you must try to choose a husky from the appropriate nests. And in order for her to develop her hereditary qualities, it is necessary to provide her with proper nutrition and training. All likes need good clear voices. Unfortunately, male dogs don’t often have such voices. It is very undesirable to have a husky with a long-range search and a dull voice, and even with a rare presentation of it. We have to gradually work on reducing the search for this dog. The frequency of the voice can still be changed to some extent by training, but the strength and sonority are practically not. There is no need to make serious complaints about the husky’s voice when working on poultry and semi-aquatic fur-bearing animals. A special requirement must be placed on the voices of huskies working on ungulates. The strength and frequency of the voice should be good, especially when the husky is working alone. When hunting wild boar, especially black trail, the strength and frequency of the voice should come first. Of course, these huskies must also have malice, toughness and skill. The effectiveness of boar hunts will be high, which cannot be said when well-working but weak-voiced huskies participate in the hunts. Typically, several dogs are involved in wild boar hunts. If one of them is angry and active in attacks, the second one must be selected with a good high-pitched voice. And it is not at all necessary that she work viciously on the boar. Very high demands are placed on the voice of a husky working on a moose. This is a very responsible hunt, and the work of a well-trained husky is especially important here. And of course, a clear voice is needed for the husky, which works on riding furs - squirrel, marten, sable. The husky should be at some distance from the tree, choose the position with which this tree or group is next standing trees are clearly visible. A dog standing right under the tree, in a dense undergrowth, and barking into the trunk, into the overhanging spruce paws, is very hard to hear. Sometimes there are dogs, especially young ones, barking when they lose their owner in the forest. Many hunters consider such dogs almost spoiled. But there is no need to be afraid of this. As dogs age and gain experience, they do this less often. And there is nothing wrong with a dog letting its owner know where it is and asking for a return signal. It must be borne in mind that dogs must be protected from colds that affect the voice. It is not advisable to keep them on a chain. It is especially bad if the dog barks when the chain is pulled tight. In cold weather, frozen, cold food should not be given. From this, dogs, like humans, spoil vocal cords. To work on a large, strong animal that can stand up for itself (bear, wild boar, elk, badger), you need to have a husky with strong nervous system. Such a dog is not easily unsettled by wounds and bites inflicted by these animals. Usually, good breed huskies show little fear of the wolf, as well as a passion for working with it. But there are nests of huskies that inherit the desire to work with the wolf. The voices of dogs when working on a wolf are very different from the voices when barking an elk, wild boar or other animal. My hunter friends had several Western males, powerful serious dogs, who never let a seasoned wolf pass alone, boldly followed him and entered into a fight. Now the lines of these dogs have been lost or are very diluted by the influx of other blood. Should such dogs be used to hunt wolves? Of course, it’s good when your dog drives a wolf to the hunter or gives him the opportunity to approach him for a shot. But the wolf leaves the dog when it knows about the presence of a person in the area. If a pair of wolves or one seasoned one does not feel danger and gets close to a husky, it can easily die. A dog's sense of smell, breadth and depth of search are often related. I had several beautiful huskies with a very good sense of smell, which rarely went a significant distance, were often in sight, but, as a rule, were the first to find the animal and the first to give a voice. If the dog's sense of smell is poor, it has to work hard to find the animal. It is difficult to give an optimal search mode in terms of width and depth for different hunts. It depends on the organization of the hunt and the area. Search selectivity is very important point likes in work. Without this quality, the prey rate with any husky will be low, especially with a small number of animals and birds. Viscosity and anger towards the beast are also related. Malice and skill, or the ability to pick up attacks, relate to working mainly with boars and bears. Anger towards an animal should not be confused with an ill-mannered attitude towards a fur-bearing animal after it has been shot. Anger and viscosity can be either innate or developed in the process of training, baiting and hunting. Anger makes you attack the beast. Acceptance of attacks is very important for a husky. First of all, it depends on whether the dog will live long and work or die quickly. Acceptance of attacks is acquired in the process of baiting and hunting, but the inclinations must be innate. When hunting elk, viscosity comes first. Laika attacking a moose with malice great benefit won't bring it. And a husky, which can spin and jump in front of an elk’s face all day long, playing and diverting all his attention, will make the hunt successful. Viscosity is also needed in the work of huskies on fur-bearing animals. Fewer requirements this quality is required in poultry work. All these observations were made in various areas of the Minsk region, in Tyumen and Irkutsk regions. Much is taken from the experience of working in the Logoisk military-hunting farm. I would like young hunters to find something useful for themselves in this publication and to become more thoughtful about this wonderful hunting dog.

1. Which breed to choose?

To select a specific breed of husky future owner must answer a number of questions:

What kind of hunting are you interested in or have the opportunity to engage in?

All hunting huskies are very versatile and can be trained for almost all types of hunting. However, there are certain characteristics of each breed that cannot be ignored when choosing a dog, for example:

· The Karelo-Finnish husky is perfect for small game (squirrel, marten, raccoon, wood grouse, black grouse). If desired, it can be trained on both elk and bear. "Karelka" is easier to transport to public transport, less space it will occupy both at home and in the car.

· The Russian-European Laika is suitable for game of any size. REL has a bright black-piebald (i.e. black and white) color, unlike wild beast and clearly visible in poor visibility, so there is less chance that the dog will suffer from the “sucker”.

· The West Siberian Laika is suitable for game of any size.

· The East Siberian Laika is suitable for game of any size. This is the tallest breed of hunting huskies, making it easier for the VSL to move through deep snow.

When choosing a husky breed, one cannot help but take into account that the hunt for the “red” animal does not last long and not every hunter can obtain a license, for example, to shoot an elk or take part in a driven hunt with a team, and even with a dog, but keep large dog It’s clearly not worth it for “mushroom picking trips.”

Appearance Which breed do you like best?

In those days when hunting was a means of subsistence, hunters were of little interest in the exterior qualities of their assistants. The dogs were strictly selected for their working qualities necessary for a specific type of hunting and unpretentiousness, i.e. they had to eat little, “drink” snow, not freeze, etc.

A modern hunter is basically an amateur hunter, for whom hunting is not about getting his daily bread, but a hobby associated with magnificent physical activity, emotional experiences, communication with wildlife and comrades. In this regard, everything that surrounds the hunter in the forest or in the field should provide him, incl. and aesthetic satisfaction. Therefore, we consider it quite important that the dog pleases its owner in appearance.

Why do you need a dog?

The indigenous peoples of the North, for example, selected and kept huskies for several very specific purposes:

· Hunt (hunting huskies)

· Hit deer (reindeer huskies)

· Ride (riding huskies)

· Dress (not suitable for the above)

· And... eat (also likes)

Hunting huskies are dogs for hunting and only for hunting. Hunting husky does not graze a herd of elk or wild boars (does not herd), but fights off one animal from the herd and holds it until the hunter approaches for the right shot. You should not waste the strength of a hunting husky in a harness. A hunting husky will notify its owner of the approach of a person or animal, but is not very suitable as a “Doberman watchman.”

2. Male or female?

It is impossible to give a definite answer to this question. Summarizing my personal opinion, I can say the following:

Males more powerful, resilient and independent (hereinafter we will talk in general, since there are exceptions). They feel more confident with a large animal, especially alone. Males, as a rule, have a very wide search and higher viscosity. However, if there is more than one male dog on a hunt (and not only on a hunt), then a fight can rarely be avoided, and the consequences can ruin both the event and the mood for a long time. Males are more stubborn and willful. It is more difficult to get a male dog to have close contact with the owner during the hunt; they seem to hunt on their own and can go with other (even strangers) hunters. Males are more specialized; for example, being trained on a large animal, they almost completely stop paying attention to squirrels, martens and birds. Males are more prone to wandering and all year round there is a possibility that the male will run away to the “dog wedding” and no amount of “no”, “come to me”, etc. will help.

Bitches more obedient, calm and careful. Well-trained bitches search the grounds very carefully (hunters say that such bitches work like scratching with a comb). Bitches are more attached to their owner and family, they have a well-developed protective instinct. Bitches are distrustful of strangers. Bitches rarely steal and devour dead game (squirrel, marten, bird), which cannot be said about males. With a bitch, twice a year for a week or two you have to go outside with a stick (during heat), but the rest of the time there are no “sexual problems”. Bitches are more clean; as a rule, already at the age of 1-1.5 months, the bitch easily learns to “walk” on a rag. Yes, and you need to walk with a female for about fifteen minutes, 2 times a day (morning and evening), and with a male dog at least three times for about thirty minutes.

3. When should puppies be examined?

If you are serious about choosing a puppy, it is better to inspect the litter three times:

Immediately after the puppies are born, i.e. on days 1-4 of their life. In this case, the following can be determined:

- state of the bitch. The good condition of the bitch gives confidence that she will calmly feed her offspring. An emaciated, “mangy” bitch will require a special diet and special care for the puppies, including their artificial feeding. Artificial feeding, as a rule, will be required if the bitch had a caesarean section. There is no need to be afraid of “artificial animals” if modern feeding methods are applied to them (but the fuss is incredible).

- number of puppies. A large number of puppies will require an increased diet for the bitch or more early start artificial feeding of litter. At the same time, if you want to receive good dog, then do not hesitate to offer your help to the owner of the bitch.

- completeness of puppies. Full-term puppies have a normal “puppy” appearance, they are blind, crawl, squeak, suck and sleep. Premature and weak cheeks suck poorly, squeak and noticeably lag behind their “normal” counterparts.

- presence of dewclaws (fifth) toes in puppies on hind legs. You should not be afraid of their presence; in the old days this was considered a good omen and such dogs were selected for hunting and breeding. However, it is useful to remind the owner of the bitch that the dewclaws must be removed on the 4th day of the puppies' life. This simple operation is best done with the help of a veterinarian, because... the fifth finger must be trimmed correctly, one stitch must be placed and, most importantly, the wound must not be infected. When this operation is carried out correctly, puppies forget within a couple of minutes that they were “offended.”

- puppy color. After examining the color of the puppies, you can first look at the ones you like the most.

- size of puppies. Based on the size of newborn puppies, an experienced dog breeder can determine how these dogs will grow in the future. The largest puppies will always remain taller and vice versa.

On the 14-15th day of their life. It is useful to see puppies at this age because... It would be a good idea to examine the condition of the litter (height, weight, coat type, eye opening, etc.), and check whether the owner of the bitch has gotten rid of worms (all puppies are infected with roundworms, so on the 14th day they are given, for example, piperazine). At this age, it is useful to start feeding puppies; the decision to start feeding is made based on the condition of the bitch, her milk production, the number and size of the puppies. Some owners completely remove the puppies from the bitch on days 14-20 of their life. The purpose of this action is not to “suck out” the bitch (especially if it is necessary to use her for hunting) and to prepare the puppies for transfer to new owners. They do this gradually, first they begin to feed the puppies little by little, then they isolate them from the bitch, the bitch is brought to the puppies 6-8 times a day for feeding (the puppies are fed artificially), gradually reduce the number of feedings by the bitch and increase the number of artificial feedings. Thus, within a few days, the puppies are completely taken away from the bitch. At the same time, you need to know what longer time puppies are fed by a bitch, so much the better, because... Only with mother's milk do they receive the necessary immunity to disease. It is not difficult to determine the feeding norm for a husky puppy, because... Well-fed puppies sleep, and hungry ones crawl and squeak.

On the 30th day of their life. On the 30th day, the puppies are described (see photos 1, 2, 3, 4, 5), for this the owner of the bitch brings the puppies to the club (society), or the dog handler comes to his home (the issue of heating the bathhouse and setting the table is decided individually). From this moment the puppies begin their “official” life, because... They are assigned a number and signed the first passport - a certificate of origin of the puppy. The owner of the bitch must prepare all documents for puppies in advance, because... it takes a lot of time. Puppies must be registered with:

Act of mating (unified form RKF, RFOS, FCI). The main thing in this act is that it makes sure that this particular bitch was mated with exactly that male and indicates the conditions of mating (i.e., what is due to the owner of the male for the pleasure received - money, a puppy, etc.).

Certificate of mating (basic information about the male and female is indicated)

Certificate of inspection of the litter (how many puppies, how many males and females, their condition, nicknames, numbers and information about the new owners)

Litter color chart (a color chart for each puppy is drawn in the top view)

Application for litter registration (unified form RKF, RFOS, FCI)

General litter card (unified form of RKF, RFOS, FCI)

Puppy card (unified form of RKF, RFOS, FCI)

Certificate of origin of the puppy (the most important document for the new owner and puppy)

In addition, copies of pedigrees, diplomas and certificates of the male and female (parents of the puppies) must be prepared.

1. Which puppy to choose?

Taking a good look at the puppies, you will see what type of behavior they have (in general, this type will remain in the dog for the rest of its life). The choice of the desired type of behavior depends on the hunter's preferences. If you need a vicious dog (for a bear, lynx, badger, guard), then choose choleric, for other hunts (calm) are better suited sanguine people(elk, wild boar, fur, poultry), phlegmatic people are good for the soul. As a rule, all puppies in one litter are different. Some are typical choleric people, they are lively, aggressive, childishly attacking their brothers, sisters and even their mother, roaring, yelping, pushing everyone aside and running first to the bowl. Other typical sanguine people, they know their worth, are calm, balanced, do not rush to the bowl (not a wolf, they will not run into the forest), do not get into a fight, but confidently fight back when attacked. Phlegmatic people timid, cling to the bitch and brothers, and retreat when attacked. Other behavioral features are also important, for example, puppies that confidently keep to themselves will be independent on the hunt, inquisitive puppies will carefully search the grounds, sociable puppies will feel great on collective hunts and in large dog teams. We classify “special” signs as superstitions (the number of waves in the sky, nails alternating in color, etc.)

2. When should I pick up my puppy?

Nowadays, it is customary to pick up puppies at about 30-35 days of age. If the bitch is still actively feeding her puppies (this happens rarely), then you can agree with her owner to leave your puppy for a while (overstay). This can last 2-3 months and makes sense under certain circumstances (you do not yet have conditions for keeping little puppy, puppies are rather weak, etc.). Naturally, such a service will cost additional money.

3. What to do during the first “sleepless” nights and “wet” days?

If the owner of the bitch transferred the puppies to artificial feeding, then you won’t have any special problems. Daily routine one month old puppy very simple - slept (two hours), woke up, peed, pooped, ate, played (two more hours) and fell asleep. And so, approximately, two after two. Well-fed puppies sleep a lot. To sleep, feed the puppy sliced ​​or finely chopped meat at night; it takes a long time to digest and the puppy will sleep longer. For the first few days, the puppy will miss his mother and brothers and sisters. If the puppy is very restless, whines all the time and does not let him sleep, then place a large mirror on the floor in front of his nose, he will immediately calm down. Prepare a cloth so that the mother can clean up after the puppy. Place this rag (rinsed) where it does not bother anyone; when you see that the puppy is fussing, take him to the rag and let him recover. A few days of such training and the puppy will run to this rag when needed (do not forget to keep it clean and use detergents and no need for bleach).

How to choose a hunting husky.

Laikas acquired in a hurry, on occasion, ineptly raised and trained, are rarely good helpers on the hunt. Therefore, many hunters who decide to acquire a husky usually face a number of questions: which breed of huskies is better; who should be purchased, an adult dog or a puppy; how to raise and train a puppy so that it becomes a good helper, and many, many others. However, before we talk about choosing a husky, I would like to address those who essentially do not need huskies, but buy them for the sake of fashion, for the beauty of these dogs, so that the family has a living creature that brings joy and responds with affection to love and the care of the owners. It is known that for many hundreds of years the formation of huskies took place in conditions of great freedom. The man demanded from them, first of all, good work. This left a certain imprint on their character. They are characterized by mobility, curiosity, a desire to explore the surrounding territory and relative freedom. When they fall into the hands of non-hunters, they are forced to practically live in captivity and, although over time they get used to such a life, they usually bring a lot of grief and trouble to their owners. Often, having broken free, they die. Sometimes the owners themselves, realizing that they do not need such a dog, seek to hand it over to the hunter. But by that time it is usually already spoiled and often unsuitable for hunting. Therefore, it is advisable that non-hunters do not purchase huskies. There are many other dog breeds that are designed specifically to live next to humans. They show greater affection for their owners and are more disciplined compared to huskies. They become truly very close creatures in the family, bringing joy to their owners while remaining happy themselves. As for the husky, its destiny is hunting. She receives complete satisfaction only when she works in search of animals and birds. As you know, some hunters like to hunt with huskies for small fur-bearing animals, mainly squirrels, others for birds, and still others prefer wild animals. Therefore, when choosing a husky, first of all, you should take into account the hunter’s attachment to certain types of hunting. The hunter's ability to raise, educate and maintain dogs is also of certain importance. Some hunters do not have the conditions to raise and raise a puppy and they try to acquire adult dog. However, an adult, well-working pedigree husky can only be purchased at serendipity. Most often, owners sell adult dogs due to unimportant working qualities or defects in appearance. By purchasing such a husky, it new owner must remember that it is not always possible to achieve full contact with her, since the conditions of upbringing, the requirements of the previous owner and his attitude towards her had a great influence on the formation of her habits, psyche, character and behavior. It is sometimes impossible to wean a dog from some bad habits. Thus, it is almost impossible to accustom an adult husky to an indifferent attitude towards poultry if it has been addicted to crushing it since childhood. Therefore, it is better to choose, raise and train a puppy yourself in order to get not only a well-working dog, but also a loyal friend. A hunter who decides to acquire an adult dog must first check its qualities during the hunt. The presence of a field test diploma cannot serve as a complete guarantee of the presence of good hunting qualities. Sometimes it is possible to purchase a dog that has been raised but not yet working. In such cases, it is necessary to analyze its origin by pedigree, evaluate its exterior, inviting for this purpose experienced dog handler, and become familiar with the peculiarities of her behavior. With appropriate training, a husky can become a good worker if it is energetic, mobile and at the same time balanced and manageable. Downtrodden, cowardly, as well as very excitable and overly angry dogs are not good hunting helpers, and in Everyday life cause a lot of trouble and hassle. You should not buy huskies that have a good pedigree and are beautiful external forms, if these dogs have already been in the hands of several owners. In most cases, such dogs have some hidden defects, due to which the owners get rid of them. Some hunters, hoping to get a good working dog, purchase puppies and adult huskies from hunters in fishing areas, guided in their selection various kinds signs. Here are some of them that were used by hunters in the river basin in the past. Pechora gave great importance. Among the black dogs, the best are the “two-eyed” ones, that is, those with red markings above the eyes. If the husky is fawn or red, and the muzzle is black, this is a good omen. A husky with a very short ear will be lazy. The presence of dewclaws on the hind legs indicates that the dog will go very well after birds and minks. If on a wart located on lower jaw near the throat, there are three long, hard hairs (vibrissae) - the dog will be a good worker, but if there are only one or two, then it will be of little use. A sign of a good animal husky is the presence of black and white claws on its paws. The most important feature was considered to be the color of the dog’s soft palate and the number of transverse folds, or scars, on it. The sky should be black, and the less scarring there is, the better. A good husky usually has 9 scars, but the best one will be the one with 6 or 7. Such a husky will go after elk, marten, mink, squirrel and bird. In the past, when in many places the population of huskies was formed in the isolated conditions of taiga hunters, such signs obviously mattered when choosing a dog. The hunters were very observant and, undoubtedly, noticed that the well-working descendants of outstanding working dogs had certain inherited traits, which were subsequently used to guide the selection of puppies. Not all of them became good workers. But in the fishing areas there was always a strict selection for working qualities. Only the really good workers remained. When breeding them, they mated with close relatives, and therefore the characteristic features associated with excellent hunting properties were fixed and quite firmly passed on by inheritance. However, as soon as the existing spatial isolation disappeared and other dogs entered the existing population, the correctness of these signs gradually disappeared. The hunters themselves understood this. Thus, an old hunter from the Priluzsky region of the Komi Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic, speaking in 1965 about the signs of good huskies, said: “Now it’s not like it used to be. Good dogs they do not preserve, the dissolute are not destroyed. Males now for the most part bad, which is why the breed of huskies got mixed up. Therefore, the signs have lost their power." What should be guided by when choosing a husky? We have already noted that it is better to purchase a pedigree puppy if there is an opportunity to raise it. But, having decided to get a puppy, a novice hunter usually thinks about which breed of huskies is better, who to get, male or female and, most importantly, how to really choose good puppy so that he can be a reliable hunting assistant? The solution to these issues largely depends on the inclinations and capabilities of the hunter. Thus, a passionate lover of duck hunting will be more satisfied with a tall, strong, hardy husky, since the work of a duck dog on ponds with dense vegetation requires great strength and endurance. To work with large animals and sable, a fairly tall, strong and hardy dog ​​is also desirable. However, if the hunter lives in big city, he has serious difficulties not only when keeping a large husky in an apartment in a multi-storey building, but also when walking and taking it for hunting. Based on personal experience and analysis of a number of materials, we consider it necessary to show the main specific features and capabilities of not only individual breeds of huskies, but also males and females when used for non-hunting. Taking this into account, a novice hunter will be able to navigate more easily when choosing a husky puppy. Among the breeds of huskies that are bred in our country, Karelian-Finnish and especially purebred Finnish huskies are still few in number. However, if desired, puppies of these breeds can be purchased in Moscow, Leningrad, Kirov, Yaroslavl, Gorky and some other cities. Small Karelian-Finnish and Finnish huskies are easier than other breeds of huskies to keep in apartments and transport in a modern city, which is of no small importance. Representatives of these two breeds work best with upland game and squirrel. With some of them they successfully hunt marten, elk and even wild boar. However, Karelo-Finnish and Finnish huskies are of little use for duck hunting, not only because they are physically weaker than other breeds of these dogs, but also because most of them are very reluctant water is coming. It should also be added that Karelian-Finnish huskies as a group have slightly better hunting qualities, although they are less impressive in appearance compared to pure Finnish huskies. Pedigree East Siberian Laika puppies are difficult to obtain; since factory breeding of this breed is currently carried out only in Irkutsk and on a small scale in Leningrad. East Siberian huskies, for the most part, work well for many commercial species, in particular, good sablecats and dogs that follow large animals are very often found among them. At the same time, it should be noted that in terms of protein, males of this breed in most cases work well only in at a young age. Sometimes East Siberian huskies with excellent hunting qualities may turn out to be of little use in areas of the European part of the USSR, where there are a lot of elk and wild boar. Possessing an irrepressible hunting passion, they often disappear. Some hunters may also not like the non-gambling, calm nature of their work, which is observed in many East Siberian huskies both during the search and when barking at animals. It is much easier to purchase Russian-European and West Siberian Laika puppies. They are the most numerous and widespread. Having processed the information contained in the “Catalog of Cool Breeding Hunting Dogs” (Moscow, 1971), we found out that Russian-European huskies work better than West Siberian huskies on squirrels, and West Siberian huskies work much better on ducks and alone on decoy bears . It is also interesting to note that males of both breeds work worse in squirrel, and better in duck than females (Voilochnikov, Voilochnikova, 1972). A. Ilyenko (1979), having processed similar information from the later “Catalogue of Cool Pedigree Hunting Dogs” (Moscow, 1977), came to similar conclusions and at the same time showed that West Siberian Laikas are distinguished by great versatility. Among them, in comparison with Russian-European ones, it occurs almost three times more dogs who have diplomas in three or more commercial species (squirrel, elk, wild boar, decoy bear and duck). Considering these conclusions, at the same time it is necessary to clearly understand that they follow from the average indicators obtained when processing a large material. If we talk about specific dogs, then among both West Siberian and Russian-European Laikas there are many representatives with excellent exterior and excellent hunting qualities. Therefore, when choosing a puppy, if there are no special attachments to a particular breed, it is better to be guided by knowledge of the characteristics of breeding lines or sires that have proven themselves in hunting and consistently pass on their properties to their offspring. As for the question: who is better to take - a dog or a bitch, then, in addition to the above conclusion that bitches work better than dogs on squirrels and worse on ducks, it is useful for a novice hunter to know the following. Males, as a rule, are larger, stronger, tougher and bolder than females. However, most of them are very pugnacious and many of them have a tendency to wander. Bitches are more obedient, more attached to the house, and start working earlier. However, an empty bitch often deprives the hunter of the opportunity to hunt with her during the hottest season. K. Lorenz (1971), the founder of the study of animal behavior, wrote on this subject, “... if possible, choose a female dog, despite the fact that her two heats a year cause you some inconvenience. I think all experienced dog owners will agree with I know that from a subtle point of view of character, a bitch is always preferable to a male. A female is more loyal than a male, her psyche is subtler, richer and more complex than that of a male, and, as a rule, she is smarter than a male. I had the opportunity to get to know very many people closely animals, and I assert with complete confidence that of all four-legged creatures, the one closest to man in terms of subtlety of perception and ability for true friendship is the bitch.” We subscribe to this opinion of K. Lorenz, although we must note that among huskies there are also males who are devoted to their owner. We know of many cases when, during bear hunts, it was the males, often at the cost of their lives, who saved their owners who fell into the claws of the beast. So, having assessed the possibilities and your interests, you have determined the breed and gender of the future puppy. Moreover, the sires from which the offspring you are interested in were obtained are known. All that remains is just a little: you need to choose from the litter a puppy that would meet your hopes and aspirations. This problem is not as simple as it seems at first glance. After all, even in a litter from the best sires there can be puppies that are very different both in appearance and in hunting qualities. It is best to select a puppy from a litter by observing him from birth throughout the nursing period. You should pay attention to the puppies that were born first. They tend to be larger and stronger than others. Then they determine which of them has a better sense of smell. Puppies with a good sense of smell not only quickly find their mother’s nipples, but, when placed on the less milky front nipples, they immediately stop sucking and, pushing others aside, strive to take possession of the most milky rear ones. Puppies with a weak sense of smell usually poke their muzzles for a long time in search of nipples. After your eyes open and ear canals, puppies begin to hear, but not everyone has the same hearing acuity. Publishing faint sound, you can see how one of the puppies raises the shells of their ears, while the others do not react at all to the sound. By repeatedly using this technique, you can determine exactly which of them hears better. Then they pay attention to how well the puppy’s exploratory reflex manifests itself. Active puppies usually begin to walk a little from the age of two weeks and move further and further from their “nest”, gradually becoming familiar with the surrounding objects. They are the first to approach the container in which their mother receives food, and often try to eat it. At the end of the suckling period, you can accurately determine which puppy has a good active-defensive reaction, which is very desirable for a bestial husky. The puppies we selected in this way subsequently became excellent workers and had good conformation. Of course, only the owner of the bitch and his close friends can choose in this way. Usually a hunter has to purchase puppies from producers unknown to him. Therefore, first of all, you need to find out what the puppy’s parents are like. It is also necessary to carefully familiarize yourself with their pedigrees. This information can be obtained from the canine section of the hunting society. If the parents have excellent conformation, field diplomas high degrees and in all generations of their pedigrees there is a significant number of good ancestors, then the puppies are usually good. It is also desirable that the puppies come from sires who are in their prime. When choosing a puppy from a litter, you should give preference to the most active, well-fed one, with shiny coat of a color typical for the breed. At one month of age, when puppies are usually adopted, their breed characteristics are quite well defined. Some sometimes even have erect ears; most have curled tails. Puppies that are lethargic, loose, have eye defects, are severely retarded in growth and have malocclusions should not be adopted. When choosing a Karelian-Finnish or Russian-European husky puppy at one month of age, you must definitely pay attention to the format. Preference should be given to those whose height at the withers is approximately equal to the length of the body. These usually produce dogs with a square format. In newborn black and white Russian-European Laika puppies, the nose is often partially or completely depigmented, but this should not be feared. Sometimes the depigmented areas disappear by the time the puppy is weaned from its mother. But in some cases, the nose becomes completely black only at the age of 6 - 10 months.

The choice of a puppy is of great importance in raising it to be a good hunting dog.

You should purchase and raise puppies only from the best breed of Laikas, certified by testing or known for their working qualities. From such huskies, puppies will be good at work and purebred in appearance; with them, hunters will be able to get more valuable furs and game more easily and easily.

The main breed characteristics of breeding huskies are: small, sharp, erect ears, dark, usually brown, eyes with an oblique cut to the eyelids, a sharp muzzle with a protruding nose (lobe of the nose) of a dark color, abundant coat of hair with a straight, hard spine and a soft, thick undercoat, fluffy short tail (level with the hock joint or 2-3 cm shorter). It is better if it is tightly wrapped in a ring on the back. The color of the husky can be of different shades - zone-gray, white, red (fox), black, piebald or spotted.

Marble, brindle, coffee and brown colors for huskies are vicious.

Laikas with a well-developed undercoat have almost erect hair, elongated on the neck, and form a sort of sideburns and muff on the neck and shoulders. Long silky hair forming a dewlap on the underside of the tail, on the tail and on the back of the front legs indicates an admixture of foreign blood.

A husky puppy at the age of 3-4 weeks from birth should have the following breed characteristics: a head with a gentle transition from the forehead to the muzzle, and the lips should not have large folds, and small, high-set ears in the shape of a triangle. In good purebred puppies, ears stand up by 2-3 months, sometimes this happens by 5-6 months or later. The sooner the ears rise and the firmer they are, the better. The color of the nose is black; for white huskies, brown is allowed. The darker the eyes, the better. In one-month-old puppies, the eyes are mostly bluish, and then darken, acquiring a brown color. Greenish, light eyes The dogs will remain light for the rest of their lives. Such eyes are vicious.

The coat of one-month-old puppies, consisting of a thick undercoat and guard, should be straight, thick and soft. The length of the undercoat is 1.5-2 centimeters, the awns are 3-3.5 centimeters on the back and the puppy appears fluffy. On the cheeks, the adjacent hair should not reach the outer edge of the ear. If it goes under the outer edge of the ear, this is a major drawback, since the puppy will not have good hair in the future.

If a puppy at one month of age has a thick, almost standing fluffy coat, then it will grow into a husky with a typical coat of hard hair with a thick soft undercoat. This kind of husky can work well in any frost and go smoothly in ice water and without fear of sedge cuts, swim and feed killed ducks.

When a puppy’s fur is not fluffy enough and adheres to the skin, then it will grow into an insufficiently dressed adult husky.

The tail of a one-month-old puppy can reach the hock joint, preferably somewhat shorter, preferably a tail in a half ring, curled over the back.

The height of a month-old West Siberian husky puppy should be 22-25 centimeters, weight 2.5-3 kilograms.

It is easier to choose a puppy from a litter by comparison. You should prefer a puppy that has less and sharper ears, gentle transition from forehead to muzzle, long and sharp muzzle, fewer folds on the lips, fluffier coat. The larger, heavier, more energetic the puppy is in its movements, with a shorter tail and thick paws, the better. Such a puppy will grow into a hardy husky with strong bones.

The owner of a whelping female husky should examine the puppies on the 2-3rd day after the birth of the puppies in order to cull unwanted specimens. These include puppies that have an atypical color (marble, brindle, coffee, brown-red, but do not mix the latter with the red-yellow fox color that is found in pedigree huskies).

Curly fur becomes noticeable in puppies of two to three weeks. They are also discarded.

Non-black color of the nose (flair) is allowed until the age of one month. If by this time the nose has not turned black, it is better to discard such a chip. White puppies are allowed a brown or coffee-colored noselobe, but a black noselobe is also desirable for them.

It is necessary to destroy the ugly, small, weak puppies, so that they don’t drag the bitch in vain.

Puppies with malocclusion should also be destroyed. Huskies that are closely related to their owners often have this type of bite.